Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

In considering the total weight of my finnished product, I have a couple of questions:
1. How much weight does the typical .040 aluminum skin add to a Teardrop? Has anybody ever weighed theirs before and after skinning?

2. There is some lighter aluminum panel available. I believe it is .036 (not sure). Is it too thin to be worth the addition?

3. Has anybody used those 4 by 8 fiberglass sheets? Would that eliminate the need for a thicker exterior wall panel?

4. I am planning on using the very thinnest 1/8 inch plywood (stained) for interior panelling. Is this strong enough for the interior?

5. If I cut the side wall frames out of a solid unbroken piece of 1/2 inch plywood (filling the gaps with insulation), and add exterior 1/8 and the interior 1/8, is this a strong-enough wall?

Thanks for your comments in advance!

I just checked, and the thinner aluminum I mentioned is 032".

I can tell you that when I bought my aluminum (5' X 12', .060", four pieces) it weighed 346 pounds, however I had lots left over and it was thicker than I wanted, but all that I could get in that size here in San Antonio. I probably used 200+ pounds of it, but if it were .032", it would have weighed 110+ pounds. (.032 / .06 = .5333 X 200)

I've got calculated weights for aluminum skins for three trailers - my 4x8 Superleggera, a 4x10 Cub/Modernaire and 6x10 Widget:

Superleggera:
.032 - 48lb
.040 - 60lb

Cub, but front/top/back only, not sides:
.032 - 35lb
.040 - 44lb

Cub, all over:
.032 - 52lb
.040 - 65lb

Widget:
.032 - 87lb
.040 - 109lb

Weights are for aluminum skin only - do not include trim, adhesive or fasteners.

Hope that helps.
Andrew

Since the aluminun is non-structural, i intend to use .020 or .025. Lest anybody claim its too light, might i remind all that the skin on your average General Aviation airplane, i.e. Cessna, Piper etc. , is that thick and it is structural.
Aircraft Spruce has it in 4 x 8 sheets for a reasonabe price too.

http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/

ceebe wrote:Since the aluminun is non-structural, i intend to use .020 or .025. Lest anybody claim its too light, might i remind all that the skin on your average General Aviation airplane, i.e. Cessna, Piper etc. , is that thick and it is structural.
Aircraft Spruce has it in 4 x 8 sheets for a reasonabe price too.

http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/

I think it would be fine for the sides but I'd be concerned about the front. The tow vehicle kicks up a lot of stuff while driving. I'd definitely look into getting a bra like Doug did.

Hey, everybody: Thanks for all the great info! Especially the specific weights in Andrew's post.

And about the junk that the tow vehicle kicks up: Have you guys ever heard of mud flaps? J.C. WHitney sells one that runs the full width of the tow vehicle. I think it might be much eaier than doing the front of your Tear.

Hey Andrew:

Is my 4 by 10 footer idea doable at or under 800 pounds?

No argument there. Besides, a cover there either a Bra or some diamond plate looks trick too.

BTW, heres a sample from the current Aircraft Spruce catalog

3003-H14 ALUM SHEET 4 X 12 .025 $54.75

3003-H14 ALUM SHEET 4 X 8 .025 $36.135

I used aluminum flashing (.18??) lapped 2" for the sides of my trailer. I would not use it for the front, roof or back, though. I glued it on with Henrys 663 and so far have had no problems.

It is vey light, maybe 10lbs and $35 total for both sides from a box store.

I should have been more particular about the roll I chose, though. The one I got had slight staining damage here and there and i was forced to polish both sides as a fix.


http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/johngwalk ... pg&.src=ph


If it can kepp a roof valley dry it can keep the side of my trailer dry too.


john

xe1ufo wrote:Hey, everybody: Thanks for all the great info! Especially the specific weights in Andrew's post.

And about the junk that the tow vehicle kicks up: Have you guys ever heard of mud flaps? J.C. WHitney sells one that runs the full width of the tow vehicle. I think it might be much eaier than doing the front of your Tear.

I thought about just the flaps only...but that doesn't take care of the debris kicked up from other cars passing on either a 2 lane or a freeway... I'll probably also put an extension on my flaps that are on the truck too... just my thoughts on it...doug

xe1ufo wrote:Is my 4 by 10 footer idea doable at or under 800 pounds?

Sure - but you have to set out to build to that weight. Like losing weight off one's own body, just having good intentions won't be enough!

My Superleggera design is a 4x8 and the weight estimate for that is 385lb with a lightweight chassis. I must write down somewhere what Steve Wolverton's 'Cowper', built on a HF trailer, weighed - my memory says 480lb, but could easily be wrong.

Andrew

Andrew:

What would you use for a frame on a lite 4 by 10? Angle iron? Square tubing? And for the tongue?

xe1ufo wrote:Andrew:

What would you use for a frame on a lite 4 by 10? Angle iron? Square tubing? And for the tongue?

It depends on what kind of roads you will be pulling it on. If the roads are good, I would use 2" x 2" x 1/8" angle for the frame and 2" square or 2" x 3" rectangular tubing for the tounge. If you plan to travel off road, you might want to go heavier. Most people tend to overbuild their frames, forgetting that the body of the trailer also adds a lot of strength to the whole unit.

I may be wrong, but the tongue is the only frame component I have ever heard anyone on this form mention having a failure.

Steve Wolverton's 'Cowper', built on a HF trailer, weighed - my memory says 480lb, but could easily be wrong

Andrew,

Don't remember what Steve's Cowper weighed for shure, but I do remember it was built on an old boat trailer.