Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hello all.

I just finished cutting out my hatch side from my wall. I cut a pattern at the same time so I could copy it over to the other side. After the cut I decided to see how it would look like and tried to move it out like it would when the hatch is built. Because of the curvature of the wall the hatch side seems to bind at the bottom. Did I extend the hatch side down too far? It now sits flush with where the floor will be. I hope pictures might explain it better. The design is based on the new cub from the design library, but the floor is lower, or the body sits higher, which ever.

As always any advice is Greatly appreciated.

Onno

Here is another shot of the cut out hatch side.

Onno

If I'm understanding correctly, it's the little pointy bit along the bottom piece of the wall that is sticking into the path of the outer most hatch rib/side plate that has you concerned. And that pointy bit needs to stay because it is part of the rear edge of the floor.

If that's true, then I would consider making a vertical line up the rib equal to the tip of the point, cut the rib along this line and plate (biscuit or spline) join it back on to the main portion of the wall. Then the rear vertical face of the floor becomes the bottom sealing surface for the bottom edge of your hatch. This may require you to add a cleat along the back edge of the floor, depending on if your wall is going to sit on top of the floor or hang down on the sides.

If the pointy bit hangs past the back of the floor, then I would consider drawing a vertical line through the pointy bit even with the front of the lower portion of the rib, cutting the pointy bit off and joining it onto the bottom of the rib.

Of course this all depends on where the floor is in relation to the hatch lower edge. I am not specifically familar with your particular design, so take my thoughts into consideration accordingly.

I think I saw a build journal where someone was worried about this and it turned out okay, but not sure how similar the profile was to yours. Again, assuming that it's the pointy bit where the frame meets the floor, why not round off the part that sticks into the galley? OR take 1/8-1/4 inch off the bottom of your rib and install a rubber bump stop where it meets the edge of the floor? You'd still get the right fit and wouldn't compromise the strength of your hatch frame (in fact, it might close nicer that way). Or use a router to put a channel in your galley floor (ugly, but it would work). That's all I've got. Let us know how it works out!

Thanks for the tips. Below is another shot of the situation that might make it more clear. My wife is holding the hatch side just as it would move through it's arc when it would be opened. I circled where the binding is occurring. I should note that I am using the shop manual be Steve Frederick, so the hatch sides will sit flush with the outside wall. I could cut the bottom portion off and re-attach it to the wall. Then when I build the hatch the sides would have a little jog on either side before continuing down to the floor.

Hope this makes my dilemma more clear.

Thanks

Onno

I'm glad you posted this. I just looked at the design that I'm working on, and I've created the same "snag" in mine. A fix would be to draw a radius from the hinge line to the end of your "hook" to establish the parting line for the hatch. This would keep it from catching itself, but it keeps the hatch from having a parallel curve aesthetically. A double hinge would also fix it, but that would add a whole lot of complexity.

I guess this explains why so many cub/modernaire designs have a hatch that doesn't go all the way down.

I'm going to have to look at this closely ... at this point, I really don't want to alter my profile, and my galley design will not work if I can't open the hatch all the way to the floor.

Yes, you just screwed up your hatch.

Sorry, I couldn't help but state the obvious.

Could a second hinge be added lower on the door? Or a tailgate added that would swing up? Just some thoughts. Keep us posted on what you end up doing with it.

Change your hatch design to stop at the blue line.



Remember, everyone makes mistakes but a craftsman is one that can recover from them.

Another favorite quote is "The problem with doing somethings right the first time is that nobody realizes the difficulty of the task."

Best,
Jim

Koko65 wrote:Thanks for the tips. Below is another shot of the situation that might make it more clear. My wife is holding the hatch side just as it would move through it's arc when it would be opened. I circled where the binding is occurring. I should note that I am using the shop manual be Steve Frederick, so the hatch sides will sit flush with the outside wall. I could cut the bottom portion off and re-attach it to the wall. Then when I build the hatch the sides would have a little jog on either side before continuing down to the floor.

Hope this makes my dilemma more clear.

Thanks

Onno

I think you could also move the hinge point back along the curve, but in this configuration, yes you messed up your hatch.

dh wrote:Sorry, I couldn't help but state the obvious.

Or a tailgate added that would swing up? Just some thoughts. Keep us posted on what you end up doing with it.

Or maybe swing down.

So your hatch would be in two pieces, one swings up, one swings down.

I think I'll try cutting the hatch side similar to the above suggestion. Then once the hatch is past the wall I will continue it down to the floor. I need to trim it about 6" from the bottom in order for it to clear. Then when the hatch is done I can add some extra wood on the bottom section of the wall for some weather stripping. I'll do some experimenting on my next day off and post some more pics with the results.

Thanks again.

Onno

chartle wrote:

dh wrote:Sorry, I couldn't help but state the obvious.

Or a tailgate added that would swing up? Just some thoughts. Keep us posted on what you end up doing with it.

Or maybe swing down.

So your hatch would be in two pieces, one swings up, one swings down.

This blog link shows a teardrop with a rear profile similar to yours that has a tailgate:

http://romeonovember.blogspot.com/2005/12/29-rodney-builds-tailgate.html

Thanks! That's a cool idea. Now at least I have some options to ponder.

Onno

I decided to cut the lower portion off and re-attach it to the wall. The inside of the galley still gets another skin so this will be covered over and strengthened.

Onno