Page 1 of 1

Attaching side wall to fram - avoiding water peneration....

PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 1:10 pm
by BILLYL
Howdy-

Was looking at the ROT DOCTOR site and the CPES™ Clear Penetrating
Epoxy Sealer - can this be used on new wood- I don't see why not. Also can I spray this product? And would you recommend coating the entire outside with it - before I apply and finish?

Also - anyone have experience with any alternative products. I really am concern about preventing water peneration between the bottom of the side walls and the trailer frame - would like to seal that off.

Comments - suggestions etc.......

Thanks

BILL

PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 1:14 pm
by Ken A Hood
Check with Mike, he used it on his benroy.....
I thought it was listed in the hall of fame, but don't see it there anymore.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 1:24 pm
by mikeschn
I do need to get it in the hall of fame, don't I? I probably should also get it up on my home page.

My experience with the rot doctor stuff is here:
http://www.mikenchell.com/weekender

And yes Billy, you can use CPES on new wood. That's what it was designed for, to seal and protect new wood! :D End grain may need several coats, but the CPES goes a long way. You don't want to spray it though, since it's is true two part epoxy. Once it hardens, you'd have to throw your spray gun away!

Mike...

PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 5:08 pm
by TomS
CPES and UNIFLEX on a tear drop? Been there. Done that..... See the photos at http://www.tomswenson.com/teardrop/skin/index.shtml

I don't think you can spray Uniflex. It applies easily with a roller.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 5:27 pm
by mikeschn
TomS wrote:CPES and UNIFLEX on a tear drop? Been there. Done that..... See the photos at http://www.tomswenson.com/teardrop/skin/index.shtml

I don't think you can spray Uniflex. It applies easily with a roller.


Good writeup on your epoxy paint job. So tell me, would you do it again, or would you use aluminum?

Mike...

PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 6:12 pm
by TomS
Good question. I think aluminum would have provided a better finished appearance. Uniflex/CPES provides a much better seal. It won't puff out in hot weather. And you'll never get condensation between the skin and the plywood substrate.

I spent a lot of time filling and sanding before applying the paint. But I still had some defects show through the paint. It was a lot like working with drywall. If you're good at drywall, you'll get a reasonably good finish with the Uniflex.

PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 7:23 am
by cracker39
Question: Tom, can those products be easlily sanded smooth? I want a smooth finish so that I can use paint masking tape to create my side design. I wouldn't think the tape edges would seal good on a textured surface, and I want a sharp outline.

PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 8:01 am
by IraRat
Dale, I can probably answer this one for Tom, since I followed his activities with this pretty closely. Also, if you look at the photos, I think you'll see the answer is probably no:

It's kind of a rough surface, not VERY, but still rough. I think you would have a hard time trying to fine-sand it for detailed work. Also, not too sure if you would want to overpaint on it either.

PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 12:12 pm
by TomS
cracker39 wrote:Question: Tom, can those products be easlily sanded smooth? I want a smooth finish so that I can use paint masking tape to create my side design. I wouldn't think the tape edges would seal good on a textured surface, and I want a sharp outline.


The Fill-it epoxy filler is very sandable. CPES is absorbed the wood so sanding it isn't an issue. I haven't tried sanding Uniflex.

The smothness of the surface depends on the knap of the roller you use to apply the Uninflex. I used a medium texture roller. The Rot Doctor's web site has tons of technical information on their products. Also, I've been told by Mike and Arne, who also used Uniflex, they are helpful and will answer any and all questions if you call them.

PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 1:08 pm
by chesnut
There are several different makers of epoxy resins. One used extensively by boat builders is West Systems. When used on bare wood, use straight epoxy to seal it, then epoxy with a filler for sanding. You can get a really smooth surface for painting that way. It's also great as a gap-filler adhesive. The wood will fail before the joint does, even used with minimal clamping pressure. Here's a link to West's "users manual." http://www.westsystem.com/webpages/userinfo/manual/
There is some good info there.

Don

PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 9:01 pm
by BILLYL
Don-

What a great site. Thanks for the link.

BILL