Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Big +++ for the Kreg Mini Jig. I broke down and bought one in anticipation of building the cabinets in my weekender. It is so useful for many other things, too. I broke it in today by drilling blind screw holes top and bottom on both ends of two spars that had to be fastened on each end to a 2X4 spacer. Also avoided more screw holes on my outside walls. Worked perfectly and with two screws and a dab of glue in each end it made a really solid connection. Don't bother to buy the full jig set for $140 or more unless you plan to get into the cabinet business. The Mini Jig only costs $19 (got mine at Lowe's) and comes with everything you need to make perfect joints including the mini jig, drill bit, collar, and wrench. All you need to add is a clamp and drill motor. Any old C clamp will do, but I just happened to have a vice grip clamp with my welding tools that worked perfectly. The vice grip clamp saves a lot of time in setup. If you buy the Kreg screws, you will need a square bit driver. I recommend their screws because of the squared shoulder. However, you can probably use any screw that doesn't have a countersunk head. I'll be posting some pics in my journal soon of the different ways I am using this outstanding tool in my build.

A pocket hole jig is one of the most indispensable tools out there. After getting the basic tool inventory (power saw of some sort, drill motor, belt sander, hand tools) it should be the next purchase anyone makes. I have several, including the mini. Use the square drive screws. I get them by the box of 1000. You can get them from Kreg or McFeeley's. McFeeley has a wide assortment of square drive screws for just about everything. I got some of these pocket hole clamps. Real handy http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page ... te=ROCKLER

OK, now you got me thinkin'.
If usin' 3/4" plywood walls would it be better to pocket screw the spars into the plywood or screw through the plywood into the end grain of the spars? The spars would be 1"x2" poplar with Titebond glue.
Thanks,Smokey

I got a complete Kreg kit and an extra jig at a garage sale for twelve bucks. See album.

The pocket clamps are on sale right now: http://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Pock--Cla ... 588&sr=8-3

Cheers,

Gus

Yekoms wrote:OK, now you got me thinkin'.
If usin' 3/4" plywood walls would it be better to pocket screw the spars into the plywood or screw through the plywood into the end grain of the spars? The spars would be 1"x2" poplar with Titebond glue.
Thanks,Smokey

Put the pockets in the spars and screw into the ply

I am not an experienced wood worker.

I would think that the screw would have more bite in the spar (because the screw could be longer) and the head would hold better in the ply with less chance of splitting the spar due to the wedge effect of the countersunk screw head. Edit: Oops, I forgot that the Kregg screws have more of a flat washer face under the heads.

Only down side I see compared to the other way around is if you plan to paint or cover with canvas or glass you have to fill the screw head holes. I suppose even if you are covering with aluminum or FRP you would still want to fill the holes for waterproofing.

Carl, what is your thinking on doing it the other way? Like I said, I am not a wood worker, just curious to learn.

FYI...

http://www.kregtool.com/Kreg-Jigreg-Mini-Prodview.html

Mike...

I have an old aluminum Kreg jig with adjustable integrated clamp,



and one made of blue plastic with hardened steel guide that uses a big clamp.



Both are great, and serve different purposes. I'll probably pick up a mini, but can't yet think of an application where I would need one.

I'm with KC.. Just tryin' to learn. I don't know how well the screw would hold goin' into the end grain of the spars. Yep, I'm over thinkin' it 'cause I don't have time to actually build but,only to think 'bout buildin'...
Thanks, Smokey
PS. This is the first time I tried the "quote thingy"

KCStudly wrote:I am not an experienced wood worker.

I would think that the screw would have more bite in the spar (because the screw could be longer) and the head would hold better in the ply with less chance of splitting the spar due to the wedge effect of the countersunk screw head. Edit: Oops, I forgot that the Kregg screws have more of a flat washer face under the heads.

Only down side I see compared to the other way around is if you plan to paint or cover with canvas or glass you have to fill the screw head holes. I suppose even if you are covering with aluminum or FRP you would still want to fill the holes for waterproofing.

Carl, what is your thinking on doing it the other way? Like I said, I am not a wood worker, just curious to learn.

KCStudly wrote:I am not an experienced wood worker.

I would think that the screw would have more bite in the spar (because the screw could be longer) and the head would hold better in the ply with less chance of splitting the spar due to the wedge effect of the countersunk screw head. Edit: Oops, I forgot that the Kregg screws have more of a flat washer face under the heads.

Only down side I see compared to the other way around is if you plan to paint or cover with canvas or glass you have to fill the screw head holes. I suppose even if you are covering with aluminum or FRP you would still want to fill the holes for waterproofing.

Carl, what is your thinking on doing it the other way? Like I said, I am not a wood worker, just curious to learn.

Nailing or screwing into end grain is poor practice. There is little holding strength. The splitting issue is not a problem, as you noted, because of the shape of the screw head. Never use flathead screws in pocket joints

Addendum. I know on most of the builds that I've seen on this site, the builder have screwed through the ply and into the spars. This method is perfectly fine and will hold forever. I'm just saying that, as long as you have a pocket jig, you might as well use the preferred method. Plus, it looks cool

CarlLaFong wrote:

KCStudly wrote: Never use flathead screws in pocket joints

Once, when I ran out of pocket screws, I pondered using the deck screws I had in abundance. I found that using a washer, which I also had in abundance, in conjunction with the deck screw worked just fine.

Cliffmeister2000 wrote:

CarlLaFong wrote:

KCStudly wrote: Never use flathead screws in pocket joints

Once, when I ran out of pocket screws, I pondered using the deck screws I had in abundance. I found that using a washer, which I also had in abundance, in conjunction with the deck screw worked just fine.

I think your achieving the same effect with the washer. No wedge to split the work. You sometimes gotta be flexible!

Cheers,

Gus

I would look at the Kreg Jr instead of the Kreg Mini, for those that are contemplating buying one.
Having the material positioning slides greatly speeds up the process, plus it does two holes without repositioning.