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Questions re mounting a Fantastic Vent on a curved roof???
Posted:
Mon Sep 12, 2005 2:08 pmby cracker39
There may be some info on this in the posts somewhere, but that's a lot of posts to go through to find it, so I'm asking here. If you have a link to your build info with the answer, please reply.
Will the Fantastic vent mount on the curved roofline of a TD without some sort of filling in? Does a flat wood mount have to be fitted into the roof framing, extending above the curved roof? Or, will weatherstripping fill the gap adequately? Thanks.
Posted:
Mon Sep 12, 2005 2:51 pmby IraRat
Dale, 99% of TD designs have you more or less flat on SOME section of the roof. The vent is only around 14" square, and if you look at most profiles, it's not a problem. Also, the flange on the vent is very pliable, molding to the roof curve as you tighten its MANY screws.
But you're gonna seal well anyway, right? I used 3M's 5200 marine sealer. Goop in a tube.
Posted:
Mon Sep 12, 2005 4:29 pmby cracker39
Definitely gonna seal it well. If necessary, I can use my band saw to make an "adapter" frame. I thought about making sure that the upper part of my roof sort of flattened out for the fan mounting, but I hate to spoil a nice curve. True, the curve will flatten out a lot after the first 12-16 inches from the front, so it may not be a problem. I'll have to get the fan and check it before I start. I do plan on getting all of my parts before building anyway. I want to be able to put everything on the completed chassis: floor, sides, parts (AC, fan, mattress pieces, battery,etc.), other wood materials, etc. so I can "balance" the chassis for the correct tongue weight and exact axle placement. Then, I can put on the axle and move the trailer chassis to my build area. My wife won't let me keep the carport to use for assembly as her car would have to sit outside (poor car). I did convince her I needed the flat concrete floor for welding up the chassis and assembling the sides.
Posted:
Mon Sep 12, 2005 4:44 pmby Arne
When I am faced with similar situations, I try to make the surface as friendly as possible, I build a frame, or a filler. I wouldn't try to bend the bezel too much, as with sun, etc., down the road, it may crack.
I'd mount the fantastic fan flat to the surface on the front (hinge side) and build it up towards the rear.
Posted:
Mon Sep 12, 2005 4:58 pmby Ken A Hood
http://members.aol.com/fantasticvent/im ... mbezel.jpg
This is for an airstream, which curves side to side; but you could turn it 90 degrees and have it run front to back.
Posted:
Mon Sep 12, 2005 5:32 pmby cracker39
That would work on the inside, and that's not what I was concerned about. I won't really worry about it until I get my fan and start to mock up my template. It may not be as much a problem as I'm imagining it to be.
Posted:
Mon Sep 12, 2005 7:32 pmby Denny Unfried
Here are a couple photos from my web site how I made a 16" flat on mine for a vent. The extra wood around the hole is for the vent to screw into.
Denny
Posted:
Mon Sep 12, 2005 8:15 pmby cracker39
Thanks, Denny,
That is one of the ways I had envisioned it looking. Another is to keep the curve and raise the square frame for the fan slightly above the curve. I'll have to think about which way I want to do it. No matter how much I plan and make diagrams, when it comes down to it, I make final decisions when I actually get down to the construction.
Posted:
Mon Sep 12, 2005 11:49 pmby DoWopBox
Denny Unfried wrote:Here are a couple photos from my web site how I made a 16" flat on mine for a vent. The extra wood around the hole is for the vent to screw into.
I am getting ready to frame mine up. What size is the hole for the Fantastic Fan? I want to set mine up like you did. Can't afford to buy the fan yet.
Posted:
Tue Sep 13, 2005 12:48 amby bledsoe3
I have not purchased mine yet, but I'm told the opening has to be 14 1/4 X 14 1/4. I also read that you'll need extra framing on the outside for the trim ring to screw into. Again, all this info I've got from this forum. So it must be correct. At least I hope so cause that's how I did it.
Jim
Posted:
Tue Sep 13, 2005 8:53 amby IraRat
bledsoe3 wrote:I have not purchased mine yet, but I'm told the opening has to be 14 1/4 X 14 1/4. I also read that you'll need extra framing on the outside for the trim ring to screw into. Again, all this info I've got from this forum. So it must be correct. At least I hope so cause that's how I did it.
Jim
You're cool.
Posted:
Tue Sep 13, 2005 9:34 amby bledsoe3
IraRat wrote:You're cool.
You're just saying that cause it was you who mentioned the extra framing for the trim to screw into.
Posted:
Tue Sep 13, 2005 9:46 amby mikeschn
Yes, the rough opening should be 14 1/4" square, and the vent was designed to fit into 2x2 framing. I too posted something about that a long time ago. Good to hear people are reading that stuff and remembering!
Mike...
Posted:
Tue Sep 13, 2005 10:17 amby IraRat
bledsoe3 wrote:You're just saying that cause it was you who mentioned the extra framing for the trim to screw into.
If I learned anything here, it's that 14 1/4" dimension.
By the way--my cheap $15 Elixir vent (no fan) fits into that same opening.
Posted:
Tue Sep 13, 2005 10:42 amby DoWopBox
IraRat wrote:bledsoe3 wrote:You're just saying that cause it was you who mentioned the extra framing for the trim to screw into.
If I learned anything here, it's that 14 1/4" dimension.
By the way--my cheap $15 Elixir vent (no fan) fits into that same opening.
Good to know about the cheaper vent. Now I'll have a temporary hole-plug.
