Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Was thinking about using Rhino liner that sprays on for roof coating would be water proof and seal was looking for some thoughts

There has been several disscussions on Rhino and Herculiner in the past. Also there are a couple of TD's that have been done with it.I don't remember who one was Blue, and there are pics of it posted. If you type rhino into the search link (below) you'll see the topics, and I'm sure there are pic there.

http://tnttt.com/search ... de=results

http://tnttt.com/viewto ... ight=rhino
This link has a few pics, there in the 1st reply Minden Photo's

Rather than waiting for replys, you might run a search. You'll find this has been discussed thoroughly before and you'll find a lot of good information in the thread. Hope you find your answer there.

Dwayne, there's a guy (I don't remember his name) that did his whole tear in blue Rhino/LineX. It's waterproof and has a lifetime warranty on the whole thing. Probably add some extra weight but I don't think it would need to be applied that thick since you wouldn't be using it like a truck bed. I assume you would be replacing the soft top on your tear you have now? Shiny black would look really good on that one!

powderburn wrote:I did a search on rhino linings and found that it retains 1% water.I didnt think it would be a good choice on wood thats exposed to the elements.

Maaaaaannnnnnnnnnnn, I dunno about that claim. The lining is not porus, if the water is introduced as it is applied there is going to be some moisture in it. If enough water is in the coating as it is applied the stuff will bubble up and have to be stripped off and reapplied.

Check out this stuff:

http://www.nonslipcoating.com/

And this thread about Durabak:

http://tnttt.com/viewto ... light=dura

Since my nephew is a Line-X installer, he shot the bottom of my tear, the wood fenders and wood tongue box with the stuff. I covered the bottom with plywood, coated it with one coat of Kilz, primer prior to the Line-X and so far, it is working great. One draw back though, it did add considerable weight to the teardrop, so I can no longer lift a rear corner in the air. (perhaps my 73 year old back is no longer up to it.) I do believe it would pass the "float test" if I were to back it down the launch ramp into the lake. Go for it, if you really want a waterproof bottom.

Roly ~~

Went to local Rhino dealer today and talked to him he said it would cost 500.00 to spray top thats about as much as I have in the whole trailer the Durabak looks like it might be a way to go

How about using Rot Doctor's Uniflex?
I think Mike has used this stuff, Maybe Arne also?
If you rolled it out, it would have a texture a lot like a bed liner. Comes in some colors too!

JetBlder wrote:Went to local Rhino dealer today and talked to him he said it would cost 500.00 to spray top

I would try another dealer and take your tear with you so they can see what you are talking about. $500 is way high. Hell, you can get a pickup bed shot for that much. They charge by the square foot for odd jobs. I got a quote to shoot the bottom of my canoe and it was going to cost $90.

I used Uniflex on my project. Here's some more information to help you make a decision.

Mike's Skinning the Weekender page

Sealing my Cubby slideshow

Rot Doctor - The company that sells Uniflex