Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

When fitting the spars, ive noticed many people have lovely shaped 'nailer blocks' (if thats the correct term) between each spar centre. I would like to fit these so that the internal skinning is nice and rigid. (And to give me more meat to attach outer skin/alu). Thing is I havent got a clue how you would cut these so nice to fill the gaps between the spars, whilst keeping the curve so good. (Inner curve especially)

Can someone explain how these nailers are created? My wood working skills arent too bad, but just never had a reason yet to make any!

Alternativley, Ive been looking at this guys build



I wonder if it is easier just to build the side walls with the perimeter framing first, fit the inner wall skin/insulation THEN fit the spars.

If I did this, do you just shape the outside of the framing to the curve of the outer skin by using a router bit with the bearing at the top next to the collet?

Anyone care to add?

Ive tried searching, but you can imagine typing in 'nailer' brings up 1001 nailgun threads lol

Really would appreciate any advice.

For the curved areas you will have a much easier time using 3/4" ply rather than dimensional lumber. I used the scraps from cutting my sidewalls. I layed my scrap up against my wall, traced the profile, made it 1-1/2" to match my spar dimension and cut them out with a jigsaw.

Oldragbaggers wrote:For the curved areas you will have a much easier time using 3/4" ply rather than dimensional lumber. I used the scraps from cutting my sidewalls. I layed my scrap up against my wall, traced the profile, made it 1-1/2" to match my spar dimension and cut them out with a jigsaw.

Thanks for the advice, that makes alot more sense!

Might have a go at doing a mock up on some scrap wood this weekend. Im not starting project till september but have plenty of 1/2 and 3/4 ply lying about to test this on.

Ive been looking at your build thread for ideas as well! Great work so far!

As Becky said, cutting the fillers from plywood is probably easier than lumber.

I built my roof a little different than the norm. I rough cut a continuous nailer from (good) 3/4" plywood and then, using the template I made to cut the sidewalls, I routed it to final shape. Here is a picture showing the nailer in place for a test fit.



I then attached my roof spars to the two nailers and some temporary cross bracing to keep the roof framing aligned.





Then I removed the roof framing, added the plywood and hull liner, and reinstalled the roof.









Take care,
Tom

You're right, Tom. Your method is definitely different, and quite creative. And the result is just beautiful.

My nailers are built into my side walls. My stick frame walls are built out of 1X4's (3/4" thick). My sides are 1/4" plywood. The frame was matched to the side profile with a router. Then it was cut back by 1-5/8" (1-1/2" for the spars + 1/8" for the headliner) The headliner is then laid over this ledge and glued an brad nailed in place. Then the spars are laid over the headliner & glued an screwed in place and perfectly flush with the top edge of the sides. This way I have NO VISIBLE fasteners on the outside. This is only done in the cabin area thou as the hatch seal was built different. Details are in Steve Fredericks Shop Manual.

Both methods are genius! I do like the one continuous nailer idea. And I suppose you can use the spare material in the middle of the cutout for some doors for the galley etc so not really wasting much wood!

webbaldo wrote:

Oldragbaggers wrote:For the curved areas you will have a much easier time using 3/4" ply rather than dimensional lumber. I used the scraps from cutting my sidewalls. I layed my scrap up against my wall, traced the profile, made it 1-1/2" to match my spar dimension and cut them out with a jigsaw.

Thanks for the advice, that makes alot more sense!

Might have a go at doing a mock up on some scrap wood this weekend. Im not starting project till september but have plenty of 1/2 and 3/4 ply lying about to test this on.

Ive been looking at your build thread for ideas as well! Great work so far!

Thank you for the compliment, I really appreciate the good words. I am learning as I go too, and have received a lot of help from folks on this forum, so I am really happy that I can pass along something that will help someone else.