A CHAIN OF QUESTIONS

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A CHAIN OF QUESTIONS

Postby xe1ufo » Sun Sep 25, 2005 5:33 pm

As I approach the beginning, I have a chain of questions about ... chains.

1. What calibre of chains are you people using?

2. How far back from the hitch do you reccomend attatching the chains? (assuming a more-or-less 3-foot toungue?

3. How do you know how long is long enough?

4. How much chain sag is necessary? How much is to much? (Have you ever heard of the Great Texas Chain Sag Massacre?) :lol:

5. Do you weld or do you bolt the central chain link to the toungue?

Thanks in advance!
:thinking:
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Postby goldcoop » Sun Sep 25, 2005 6:06 pm

Dr. Steve-

What I have done:

1. 1/4" proof coil.

2. 2"-3" behind the coupler.

3. See 4.

4. 1/2 way between the ground and the under side of the coupler. Too long when it drags!

5. bolt to the side of tongue use grade 5 or 8 hardware & washers, nylok nuts.

Let's see what others have to say!

Hope it helps...

Cheers,

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Postby brad vk2qq » Sun Sep 25, 2005 6:09 pm

In Australia, chains must be welded to the draw bar.

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Re: A CHAIN OF QUESTIONS

Postby Kevin A » Sun Sep 25, 2005 6:19 pm

xe1ufo wrote:As I approach the beginning, I have a chain of questions about ... chains.

1. What calibre of chains are you people using?

2. How far back from the hitch do you reccomend attatching the chains? (assuming a more-or-less 3-foot toungue?

3. How do you know how long is long enough?

4. How much chain sag is necessary? How much is to much? (Have you ever heard of the Great Texas Chain Sag Massacre?) :lol:

5. Do you weld or do you bolt the central chain link to the toungue?

Thanks in advance!
:thinking:


Here's what California DMV has on the subject http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/dl648/dl648pt12.htm
"Safety chains are required for travel trailers. Safety chains are not required for fifth-wheel trailers. The purpose of safety chains is to prevent the trailer from separating from the tow vehicle in event of hitch failure such as a hitch ball that has loosened. The chains should be crossed in an "X" fashion below the ball mount, with enough slack that they do not restrict turning or allow the coupler to hit the ground."

When I mounted mine I used the existing bolt holes through the coupler on the tongue and mounted the chains at that point with grade 8 bolts.
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Postby George Kraus » Sun Sep 25, 2005 7:48 pm

I have always used Grade 5 Bolts for safety chains, Grade 8 Bolts are harder and may well have a tendacy to snap from the sudden load put on them if a separation did occur. Just my 2 cents worth.javascript:emoticon(':thinking:')
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Postby Nitetimes » Sun Sep 25, 2005 9:49 pm

I always weld mine on, I know my welds won't break and it's unlikely that a non-existent bolt will. I believe either way works as well as the other. And I generally put them right behind the coupler.
Rich


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Postby Gerdo » Tue Sep 27, 2005 4:32 pm

Some states do require you to "X" the chains under the tongue. In theroy if the tongue comes off the ball then the tongue will cradle itself in the X of the chains. X ing the chains also allows the chains to be tighter and not bind. The best way is to hitch the trailer up and attach the chains, go to a parking lot and turn hard to your max turning. Somentimes you have to back up to get the bumper/tongue to jacknife. Have someone watch as not to damage something. It is better to shorten the chains and use a quick link (find them at HD in the chain dept) than twisting the chains to shorten. It is also more convient. With the weight of our teardrops it is not a problem but a heavier trailer breaking away can put alot of stress on twisted chains possibly causing them to break.
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Postby Roly Nelson » Wed Sep 28, 2005 1:20 am

Dr Steve, I use the same chains that came with my Harbor Freight trailer. However when parked, I install my wooden tongue, wooden hitch, wooden reciever and attach the hand-carved wooden chain, just for kicks. I tell folks that ask, that it has always been a problem getting the Dept of Motor Vehicles to approve this goofy set up.

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Postby Gerdo » Tue Oct 04, 2005 1:58 pm

I just delt with shortening my chains. I've been twisting them to shorten. I took my own advise and used quick links (HD) First I cut the chain, next I set the length of chain and still have slack "X"ing the chains. than I backed up just before jacknifing, checked the length of chain and I was some what suprised with the chains crossed there IS more slack. The chains are actualy tighter going straight. If you do not cross the chains I know that they will tighten when turning. This is true on an "A" frame tongue. There will be less difference on a straight tongue.

Cross Them, Weld Them.
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