MY plans for floor construction

[hankyknot]

Below is a quick sketch of how I plan to construct/attach my floor/walls with a description below it and questions at the bottom.

Construction detail 01

Floor construction.JPG (36.02 KiB) Viewed 573 times

The trailer current has 3 metal risers on each side that I'm planning to cut within 1 1/2 inches of flush then fold over and use as mounting tabs that will carry a bolt through both sheets and plywood and the 2x3 skirt (bolt not shown in the diagram).

Elsewhere the plywood would be glued and screwed to the skirt every 6-8 inches.

I plan to build a stick frame wall to which the side walls would be glued and screwed that will allow me to insulate the walls. An internal (t&g perhaps) wall would be installed to cover the insulation.

Stabilising jack mounts would be bolted to the frame through both subfloor and underside sheeting with all holes being filled with silicone once everthing was bolted in place.

Finally some floating floor would be used to floor the interior of the trailer.

I have two questions;
1.) Is there anything wrong with what I'm planning?
2.) I'm assuming it would be a good idea to include a vapour barrier somewhere in there although I'm never sure whereabouts it would need to go. Between the trailer frame and subfloor, or between the trailer frame and underside, same with the sidewalls, outside the frame and insulation, or inside?

Thanks in advance for all your help, rainy days like today gives me too much time to think so I'm sure I'll have more questions shortly.

[Kody]

G'Day Hank,
I have looked at your drawing over and over and I still cant fully understand what you are trying do. The technique you have shown looks awkward and even complicated. Have you drawn the parts shown to scale? If I can get the system working correctly, I will include a drawing of how I am building my TD in reference to the floor and the side. My drawings are all in simple 2D CAD but work fine for being able to understand the info they share. The simpler a design is, the better it will work. Nearly all my designing and building is based on the TLAR system with simplicity being essential as I also have to build it. I have designed many radio controlled aircraft of 6' to 8' span, used for taking photographs, hi speed kayaks for cruising and fishing and tools and equipment beyond count. I am amazed at how many people here have used a secondhand trailer that we here in Australia would call junk and toss it. Everyone to his own and who am I to complain. I tend to over-design and then I come back a week or so later and take a long hard look at what I have drawn/designed. I may redraw the entire job or just a part of it. The TD I am now designing must be capable of travelling through the Australian outback, not being restricted to to the sealed roads. This means that the frame of the trailer must be rigid and not prone whatsoever to twisting. The cab structure must be light but still strong with small amount of flexibility. The initial design of the trailer frame resulted in a weight (frame only, not including suspension/wheels etc) of 89 kg. or 195 pounds. I can take at least 25% or more off this initial weight and still maintain the integrity and lightness of the frame. Hope this can help you.

Kody

[hankyknot]

Hi Kody,

the drawings not to scale but whats going on there is this;

the trailer frame has vertical supports on it that originall held the wooden sides. I am planning to cut these down to about an inch and a half and then fold them out to form tabs. These tabs will be used to attach the wooden skirt that will hide the frame. The underside of this will carry some kind of material, maybe 1/4" ply to protect the trailer from road debris, rocks etc and support the rigid insulation will fit between the trailer frame members.The interior sublfloor will be attached to the top of the skirt.

On top of the subfloor I was planning to build wall frame that I could insulate and that would help support the weight of the outer wall so it wasn't just attached to the skirt.

Does that make it any clearer?

I'm using draw on my Google Drive for rough sketches like this and then once I have a decision I use SketchUp for scale drawings

[KCStudly]

Just my opinion and prediction, the tabs will add complication that you will regret later.

You want to attach the wall securely to the trailer frame, especially when hanging it on the side. Your wall will hide the trailer frame, to your preference, without the extra complexity of the tabs and skirt board. If you want to skin the underside of your frame, do so; you do not need the skirt boards.

I've said my piece.

Peace.