Floor strength

[webbaldo]

How do, nearly ready to start building my TD, just a few final floor questions.

My trailer bed looks like this (welded it together out of 50x50 3mm i had lying around) Its rougly 8x4



Now if I use 1x2 framing laying 'flat' in the shape of the diagram below, sandwiched between top layer of 1/2ply and lower of 1/4 ply will this be strong enough for 2 people to sleep on?


The central red beam in pic is resting on the metal cross beam of the trailer.

I was gonna use 3 1x6's running lengthways but i thought this would be over kill, factoring in weight etc.

Heres another image to help visualise it. (My rough side template mock up)

[stix]

Pesonally I would split the front half in half and put another bearer in there,it is afteral the bit you are placing the most weight on,the back half should be ok as it is the galley end and the weight can be placed and it won't move around.

John

[48Rob]

Unless you plan on insulating between the sheets of plywood, there really isn't any reason to use the 1x2 framing, or the 1/4" plywood.
The steel frame is strong enough.
1/2" plywood attached to the steel frame is plenty.
The only place you might add a piece of wood is in the middle, to space the tongue support up to the level of the perimeter frame.
The galley needs no more support either, the 1/2" ply attached directly to the steel will do.

Rob

[webbaldo]

Unless you plan on insulating between the sheets of plywood, there really isn't any reason to use the 1x2 framing, or the 1/4" plywood.
The steel frame is strong enough.
1/2" plywood attached to the steel frame is plenty.
The only place you might add a piece of wood is in the middle, to space the tongue support up to the level of the perimeter frame.
The galley needs no more support either, the 1/2" ply attached directly to the steel will do.

Rob

The only reason I am wanting the framing really is to screw the sides to. I need the TD body to be removable from the trailer. (Just to allow me to get it out the shed and round the front of the house after construction.) Are there other ways to attach the sides without framing?

After reading several more posts about the pros/cons of floor insulation, Im starting to think my original idea of 3 1x6 length ways and 1/2 ply is better. (Im using 1x6 as i welded the frame to incorporate 4 big mounting holes for bolts, and they are 4 inches in from the edge so it means the edge 1x6's will reach this part. Suppose I could even use 1x2 running down the centre to reduce weight more

[grant whipp]

So ... why not use a 3/4" plywood floor and set the walls on top of that (gluing & screwing up from the bottom)? ... bolting the floor with either carriage bolts or elevator bolts through the holes you ave already provided in the frame? I've been building teardrops like that for almost 30 years and never had any problems (and, I build my bodies separate from the frames so that they can be easily removed). Just another possibility ...

Good Luck, and as always ...

CHEERS!