Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I'm ready to put on the roof finely. It has a double fold every 46". I noticed today while its sitting on top of the tear, that the folds don't lay flat to the roof and when I glue it down the folds I think will raise up.
What should I do?

Jim,

Hi Rooster


I am trying to Picture what you mean, have you bought a decorative alloy sheet where the material goes through a Z shape (squashed flat of course)

I can picture your concern of the above is true as the material follows a curve it will try to open up slightly instead of remaining flat.

Why did you aquire ths type of sheet? was it a freebie or dirt cheap?

George

PS picture would be good or online link to product

You might consider floating it. Like they used to do on tiny travel trailers back in the 50's here in the States. Just hold it on with the molding and a few alum twist nails. Just an idea, not necessarily the way you should do it. (Alright George?)

Have a good day.

Gage

I am not getting into a point scoring contest with you.

the problem here (if I am reading it right) is that when this material starts to follow a curve the flattened Z's in the material are going to start opening up, so unless you nailed all the way across the fold, I dont think it would stay flat.

George, I bought my roofing froma Camper Manufacturer. I could have purchased one countinued piece at $18.50 a running foot, 8' wide X 17 is a lot of cash. I got all the aluminum for my tear much less.
Thanks for the idea, it gives me something to think about.

Gage's idea has merritt also, but I have to come up with aluminum twist nails.

What do you both think of this idea: clamp at one end and weight the curved end so it will flatten out the folded seems, maybe lay a 2x4 with something heavey on top of it to hold it flat until the adhesive sets up.
Just an idea that ran in my head. 20/20 hind sight, I should have spent the extra money and got the alum. without seems.

Jim

What if the fold doesn't fall on a spar? Do you think fasteners are gonna hold it to that substrate? You're always going to have that fold/score there, so why not just go with it?

OK how about this

Cut out the folds

Butt join perfectly flat remains

then cover joins with flat rounded decorative?

I forgot to mention that the folds are the same type you see on a camper.
The guy has this machine that makes the folds.
My friend and I think we have a solution. I doesn't take much weight to hold the fold in place. We thought of putting two or three pound something on each fold to hold it in place while the adhesive sets up. If need be I'll drill a small hole and set a screw to hold it.

Jim

rooster wrote:I forgot to mention that the folds are the same type you see on a camper.
The guy has this machine that makes the folds....Jim

Yep, that's what I thought. So my answer was right on. Damn, I was right again. Don't you just hate it George & Ira.

Have a good day, and you can get those alum twist nails from the Teardrop Fix-it Shop.

Hi Gage

Actualy that proves you are mistaken but unlike yourself I do not intend to gloat, like Ira said unless you could use the twist nails all the way across then twist nails are not the answer, what are the chances of a nailer being in the right spot, secondly all those nails are possible leak points. Also any time you use a different metal to screw or nail down aluminium you start an electrolytical reaction which corrodes the Aluminium.

The answer I have been informed is to lay it down, then using a length of timber and a rubber mallet flatten the Z back down. At nearly 4 ft gaps can you avoid the Z being on a corner?

GeorgeTelford wrote:Hi Gage
Actualy that proves you are mistaken but unlike yourself I do not intend to gloat, like Ira said unless you could use the twist nails all the way across then twist nails are not the answer, what are the chances of a nailer being in the right spot, secondly all those nails are possible leak points. Also any time you use a different metal to screw or nail down aluminium you start an electrolytical reaction which corrodes the Aluminium.
The answer I have been informed is to lay it down, then using a length of timber and a rubber mallet flatten the Z back down. At nearly 4 ft gaps can you avoid the Z being on a corner?

But George, this is a quote in part from my post.

and you can get those alum twist nails from the Teardrop Fix-it Shop

I do believe I said alum nails and I believe that Jim is talking about alum sheet. Sounds like the same material to me. And what do you mean: "...twist nails all the way across...." He's not building a large RV. And the type of alum skin he has is not made to be glued down but to be tacked on the edges and then the tacks or brads are covered with the trim molding. Instead of asking your friend who probably doesn't even know what a NON-FIBERGLASS trailer/caravan even looks like, go out yourself and take a good look at a Vintage Travel Trailer/Caravan. Then let me know how the skins were attached (below is a picture of one that I restored, the sides and top skins are all floating (as mfg'd), but you need to see one up close).
As for Ira, I don't even listen to him.


Have a good day

Hi Gage


You do make some wild assumptions, I owned a business till very recently and we mostly did the Alloy work for Torton Bodies, google them and look around, virtually every step ramp and handrail you see on there site we made, look at the roof sign's us too. 2 pictures on the page below we made the chassis surrounding platforms, ramps and handrails, the big curvy roof



if one of those folds is over a curve it is going to try and open up, thats the only problem we are discussing here, we should not be having to prove or show skills, just let posts stand on their merit and soundness, why do you try to set off personality battles?

Not trying to set off any personality battles? It sure does look like we're talking about two different things so I'll just back out.

Have a good day.

Hi Gage

sorry but you called my source into question, assumed we knew nothing about aluminium fabrication.


It would be great if we could both put a differing view forward without any ill feeling or digs, lets strive for that eh?

I know there is much good advise in the above posts. About a year ago, I dismantled an old (mid 50's) Canned Ham type trailer. A tree had fallen on it and caused extensive damage to the framework and the owner wanted to convert it to a flatbed. The aluminum siding was floating as described by others. All the trim was also aluminum. However most all the fasteners were steel. There were hundreds of tiny steel nails around the perimeter of the siding and steel screws were used to attach the aluminum trim. As I "know better" than to mix metals in such a manner, I was somewhat amazed at the good condition of the fasteners as well as the siding that was in contact with them. Many of the screws which were used to attach the trim were coroded to some degree, but my guess is they had another 20 or 30 years in them before they would fail. Seems the nails being well protected from the elements by the trim were in in fine condition while the exposed screws did not fare quite so well.

The roof skin on this trailer had double folded joints as described. They were located at the portions of the profile that were more flat. This trailer was located in humid South Texas at the time I dismantled it but it had tags form Michigan. After the tree fell on it, the previous owner sold it very cheaply.

This is not to recomend mixing disimilar metals (I try to avoid it myself). Only to share an observation that I made. Sometimes we seem to allow our knowlege to interfere with our progress.