Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

going to rebuild it yet another time..I want to use the absolute best wood for the job that requires the least amount of protection from the elements.
and don't say teak or some other such nonsense..

Hi Jim,

Did Ira talk you into it? The rebuilding that is...?

Anyways, if you don't like teak, due to the price, let's see what other options there are.

There are 2 items that contribute to the longevity of the plywood. The glue, and the wood.

If you get a marine plywood, that uses a waterproof glue that's half the battle.

The other half of the battle is the wood itself. There's a couple woods that endure water very well. White oak comes to mind. Also mahogany and teak.

However you need not use such an expensive wood if you cover the wood with a layer of fiberglass resin. You could get by with a marine birch for example. Or even a birch underlayment, which is what I am using for my current build. The underlayment I'm using is called Araucoply. You might check and see if it's available in your area. I'm thinking http://www.guerrylumber.com/specialty.htm

Mike...

Pick what ever species you like and then seal it properly. But keep in mind, no matter what you use, a wood trailer left to the elements all the time will fail without regular maintenance. Best to store them inside when not being used.

Woodbutcher wrote:Pick what ever species you like and then seal it properly. But keep in mind, no matter what you use, a wood trailer left to the elements all the time will fail without regular maintenance. Best to store them inside when not being used.

Agreed. The exterior surface finish or material is more important than the wood species.

And where an you get these species of plywood for the sides?

How about as little as possible. You could build one with no wood at all using composites and aluminum, after all what ain't wood don't rot. Sealing is all well and good but in a structure that flexes and moves it will be a continuous battle.

For the Command Post I'm using the cheap crap from the big orange box. When the basic structure is built, I'll be covering it with several layers of heavy fiberglass cloth and marine grade epoxy. By the time the fiberglass cures, the wood won't matter a whole lot

Shadow Catcher wrote:How about as little as possible. You could build one with no wood at all using composites and aluminum, after all what ain't wood don't rot. Sealing is all well and good but in a structure that flexes and moves it will be a continuous battle.

I'm pretty sure the title of the thread is asking about the best wood. Had the title been "whats the best material", then your post might have some merit.



Jiminsav - you might look into MDO plywood... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium_den ... rlay_panel

Its usually available through lumber yards or sign companies. Sign companies use it for outdoor signs. I got 3/4" x 4 x 10 for $115.

Mike..how are ya..and no, haven't seen hide nor hair of Ira in years..i'll look into that..but i'm sorta alergic to fiberglass resin, so that might be a problem to cover something.
Shadow catcher..I hear ya on the composite and aluminum, but it's pretty steep in the price range around here, as is MDO..which, looks like glued sawdust covered in a fiberglass or some other layer on the outside..or maybe i was looking at something else.

thanks all for the replys.

You might consider signboard or Crezon plywood as a material that's what I used. It's a high quality exterior grade plywood designed for sign work that will be in the elements.

Cheers,

Dave

Live oak, but it ain't cheap and it is in short supply. You'll have to fight ship restorers for it. Is it needed, no.

Be very careful of the design. Where the stresses will be greatest is where the protective surface finish will fail first. Look to minimize point stresses, or even using an alternate material that can handle the stresses without failure. This minimizing of point stresses can be very important. Take the tongue. It is foolhardy to have it be part of the main structure of the trailer. Where it connects to the rest, it and the main structure will always be flexing. It should be a separate part that is separately finished. Design high stress parts so they can be replaced. Then finish them as a separate part, and finally install them after finishing. When they are refinished, separate them and refinish them separately.

A real important thing is ALL wood structures require routine maintenance. I'd put a wood TD trailer close to a small wood boat in maintenance requirements. If left outside, all stressed areas and wear surfaces should be refinished every year or two and more often if they show wear. Parking it inside only delays the inevitable maintenance. This doesn't just mean slapping on a new coat of paint or varnish. Remove the metal frame from the wood, and refinish the whole surface of the wood, not just what is visible. Where the wood meats metal there will be differences in expansion and contraction as well as stress. That will likely be enough to crack even the best finishes. A thing to note, a metal piece, like door hinge, that is well beaded with a quality caulk is really two joints with a flexible piece between them. That can last allot longer, but every so often it still needs to be pulled apart and redone. The caulk provides cushioning, as well as it keeps water from making its way to any cracks under it. Cracks that extend out from under the caulk will still be able to wick water into the wood. The caulk just reduces how often the parts need to be pulled apart and fully refinished. Refinishing the exposed surfaces still needs to be done.

It's been a long time since I've maintained a wood boat, so I likely have forgotten allot. Reading up on wooden boat design and maintenance would be good for anybody using an all wood or primarily wood structure. Even the most rot resistant woods need protection and maintenance.

Thinking about parking it inside. I used to have a large storage locker that would have been perfect for a TD. Nice grade level access, and wide enough to easily move a TD in and out.

Jiminsav wrote:Mike..how are ya..and no, haven't seen hide nor hair of Ira in years..i'll look into that..but i'm sorta alergic to fiberglass resin, so that might be a problem to cover something.
Shadow catcher..I hear ya on the composite and aluminum, but it's pretty steep in the price range around here, as is MDO..which, looks like glued sawdust covered in a fiberglass or some other layer on the outside..or maybe i was looking at something else.

thanks all for the replys.

MDO is faced with resin impregnated paper similar to kraft paper on one or both sides over a base plywood that is exterior rated, not exposure "1" rated as a lot of plywood that is sold as exterior, which is really made for exterior use in areas where it's not subject to the elements like under soffits etc...Exterior is for actual exterior exposure to the elements.

The only drawback to using MDO (I use a lot of it in other stuff so I always have it around and use it for my last 2 teardrops) is that because of the paper on one side it won't bend to as tight a radius as a similar thickness plywood will.

http://www.plumcreek.com/Portals/0/down ... fo/MDO.pdf

Bogo. I got Live oak growing in my yard..only problem is it's TOUGH..and not straight by any means, but i guess i could look to a local lumber yard and see if they have any Live Oak lumber i could use as a siding type thing.

and in fact..the trailer i have is made around a piece of Live Oak that the Half shafts are bolted too..still tough.

Check this out:

http://www.garden.org/articles/articles ... 977&page=1

Paulownia wood is also light and rot resistant. and quite stable. Deryk
the Pirate used it in one of his little Vardo builds.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

as most amature boat builders and designers will tell you, unless the boat is going to sit in the water tied to a dock or mooring house building materials will do just fine. you only need the marine stuff for marine applications. The covering is the important part.
a tear will see weather similar to your house, mostly sun, a little rain, some hurricane force wind and wind driven rain. If it is exterior rated for your house it will do fine on a tear. My tear is made of luan underlayment, the stuff you put under flooring, it has worked great for all my boats, as long as I keep them painted. I gave the tear an extra protection layer, canvas drop cloth impregnated with exterior porch and floor paint and then top coated with another layer of porch and floor paint. this is what old wooden work boats used to protect their decks before modern times.