Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

my build is going to be a little bigger then a typical teardrop but I was wondering about the door openings and was thinking I'd like one that was easy to get in and out of with out the typical grunting and groaning..So I'm asking how big do you need or rather how small do you need to get in and out of your trailer.. I'm asking this as I'd like to do an enclosed area around my bed area so I can use the top for storage as well as structural bracing ( like bunkbeds with walls on the bottom

So how big are your doors I'll change the heading as it seems like nobody is interested in this but I'm asking cause I'd like to frame in the bed section of my trailer and have just a cubby hole to clime through

People and teardrop doors come in a variety of sizes....you need to figure out what will work for your size.

Our door is 30" wide by 36" tall. If you are building a slouchy or standy you can get away with substantially less door width.

aggie79 wrote:Our door is 30" wide by 36" tall. If you are building a slouchy or standy you can get away with substantially less door width.

Mine are roughly the same. I'd play with some cardboard doors and decide if that works for you. Placement of the door can be important for comfortable entrance and exit as well.
Tom

So how big are your doors I'll change the heading as it seems like nobody is interested in this but I'm asking cause I'd like to frame in the bed section of my trailer and have just a cubby hole to clime through

Droid,

Perhaps you are having trouble getting a lot of responses to your questions because you are asking so many of them, nonstop, one after another?

There is certainly nothing wrong with asking questions, but at times when people ask so many, it appears they want others to make all the decisions for them, or feel it is simply easier to skip over the trouble of researching the subject.

The Internet in general is a fantastic source of information, and growing by the second!
Once you have the general answer, if you ask for opinions on your particular choice, you may find plenty of volunteers...
Most folks enjoy sharing their opinion far more than offering tutorial after tutorial that are easily and quickly found with a simple search.

I'm not trying to scold, just offering some thoughts...'er, opinions.

For your door size, if you will stand against a wall with arms hung naturally at your sides, have someone trace your outline (on paper preferably) and then add 6" to each side.
Now, you have the info you need to do a "keyhole" doorway.
In general, they are very narrow at the bottom for your legs, and wider at the top for your shoulders.
With a little artistic license, you can create a very pleasant shape for your doorway.

My door, to the trailer is very large, about 3' wide.
It is misleading though, as the door, one opened shows the bed projecting into the doorway.
We have only about 2' at the bottom, but 3 at the top, very comfortable!


Rob

droid_ca wrote: I'm asking this as I'd like to do an enclosed area around my bed area so I can use the top for storage as well as structural bracing ( like bunkbeds with walls on the bottom

I didn't respond because I can't visualize this.

Mike...

mikeschn wrote:

droid_ca wrote: I'm asking this as I'd like to do an enclosed area around my bed area so I can use the top for storage as well as structural bracing ( like bunkbeds with walls on the bottom

I didn't respond because I can't visualize this.

Mike...

I'd like to have the bed up off he floor and have drawers beneath itso when closed it would look like a little closet essentially in the back end of a vardo style of a trailer...So cupboards on top door in the middle and clothing drawers on the bottom...my idea was I could use the framing of it to ac as another roof support to help solidify my trailer as I'm concerned about snow load in my area...hope that helps to clear things up

I've got the storage under the bed, but no cupboards above the bed!



To answer your question, I think you need to be able to sit in the doorway to be comfortable, or almost fit comfortably.

You don't want to try to get into something like this...



Mike...

Hi Droid,

Google Image "Box Bed" and "Cupboard Bed". The top of the
first page on each should have a few pics of them. They were
used in Northern European countries to try and help retain the body
heat of the sleepers, plus built-in furniture gives more usable room
in a room etc..

I'd also do a take on Rob48's suggestion of tracing your body outline.
Sit on the floor cross-legged [Google Image that if you need to be sure
what I mean by "cross-legged".] Then measure from the outside of each
knee and add 4-6in to that. Then measure your sitting height [Sit against
the wall/doorjamb and pencil mark the top of your head against it.] and
then add 4-6in to that. Since the door you want is for entry and egress
from the box/cupboard type bed, the measurements I just described
should give a comfortable and usable door/opening size. Size it to You
this way. Having to contort to get into the box/cupboard bed is pointless.
Also, a common practice/feature of them, [since the sleeping surface was
quite elevated to help keep out of the colder air near the floor], was to
have a bench in front or built in front of the entry side/opening. This
acted as a seat area during the daytime and as a step to get into the
bed at night.

Cheers,
Norm/nezmo

mezmo wrote:Hi Droid,

Google Image "Box Bed" and "Cupboard Bed". The top of the
first page on each should have a few pics of them. They were
used in Northern European countries to try and help retain the body
heat of the sleepers, plus built-in furniture gives more usable room
in a room etc..

I'd also do a take on Rob48's suggestion of tracing your body outline.
Sit on the floor cross-legged [Google Image that if you need to be sure
what I mean by "cross-legged".] Then measure from the outside of each
knee and add 4-6in to that. Then measure your sitting height [Sit against
the wall/doorjamb and pencil mark the top of your head against it.] and
then add 4-6in to that. Since the door you want is for entry and egress
from the box/cupboard type bed, the measurements I just described
should give a comfortable and usable door/opening size. Size it to You
this way. Having to contort to get into the box/cupboard bed is pointless.
Also, a common practice/feature of them, [since the sleeping surface was
quite elevated to help keep out of the colder air near the floor], was to
have a bench in front or built in front of the entry side/opening. This
acted as a seat area during the daytime and as a step to get into the
bed at night.

Cheers,
Norm/nezmo

That is the idea I was thinking about Thanks Norm I never new the name of it but yes that is what I'd like to have

Ours are 28" X 40" (actual opening size) the bottom sill is nearly flush with the floor so that sitting is comfortable (see the one picture from MM #1). One thing to remember is that CR is reversed from most tears in that the head of the bed is at the rear so that you do not swing your legs in but rather back in so a some what narrower door opening will work well.







One of the thoughts that occurred to me is that many Teardrops would be accessible for some one in a wheel chair with little or no modifications.

Ours are 35" wide by 38" tall with an opening of 32.5" by 36.5" to the top of the curve.


Cheers,

Dave

DMcCam wrote:Ours are 33" wide by 36" tall to the top of the curve.


Cheers,

Dave

Nice doors!

Mike...

If you are building a slouchy or a standy, you can get away with a narrower door. Mine is either a slouchy(roof down) or standy (roof up) and is 24" by 45", with a finished size of approximately 23" by 44". Either way, the door opening is a slouchy. For what I've got, I don't think I'd go much smaller than that, in either direction; but, the door openings work well for me, even loading and unloading. However, if you're trying to get a folded innerspring mattress through the door and turning it, too, that size door might not work.