Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I need some advice or maybe just some approval that my plan is not wholey flawed.

I am installing a fantastic fan-but it's not fantastic yet. I am laying out the roof spars last night, thinking about cabinet door swings and perhaps future placement of a roof mounted tv, and of course the fan. I initially was concerned about the fan blowing in my face all night when it struck me that some things are flat and some are not. To make the matter worse I am building a 60" wide teardrop and the 4' wide plywood will hit light in the middle of the fan.

I estimate there is about a 1/4"-3/8" curve in the area I plan to put the fan. To make the process easier I plan on cutting the plywood roof so the edge is on the side of the fan. This will eliminate me having to fashion some spars in the middle area of the fan. My next little job will be some side supports along the sides of the fan. These will need to be curved to match the profile, both inside and out. Not to mention the sparse are not at 90 degree angles and will need to also be cut. I am thinking of making these out of plywood, as far as angles and profile?? That will take some more thinking and perhaps some cardboard templates.

I don't think there will be a huge issue sealing it from the outside(lots of sealant!), and I think a little frame will support the inside(which will be hidden by carpet)

Does this seem typical or is there a better way?

PLUMBERS PUTTY !

What are you skinning the top with, Carter! If it is aluminum or other metal, it's really no big deal. And, there's really no reason to fuss over whether or not the cross beams supporting the vent are perfectly plumb & square ... it's O.K. if the top of the opening is a little bigger than the bottom of the opening (as long as the inside trim flashing fits). I typically just rout out the opening for the vent, install the roof skin & rout out the opening in that, then add shims to lift the vent base level with the highest part of the curve or crown where it mounts. Unless you are gluing the metal down (NOT recommended, BTW), there is plenty of "give" in the metal to allow you to do this without stressing it in any way. Other's experiences may vary, but I've done it this way for over 30 years, now, with all the campers, camper shells, and teardrops I've ever built, and I've never had any problems.

Good Luck, and as always ...

CHEERS!

Grant,

As always, your a big help. Thanks for the input.

I appreciate it,

Doug

grant whipp wrote:What are you skinning the top with, Carter! If it is aluminum or other metal, it's really no big deal. And, there's really no reason to fuss over whether or not the cross beams supporting the vent are perfectly plumb & square ... it's O.K. if the top of the opening is a little bigger than the bottom of the opening (as long as the inside trim flashing fits). I typically just rout out the opening for the vent, install the roof skin & rout out the opening in that, then add shims to lift the vent base level with the highest part of the curve or crown where it mounts. Unless you are gluing the metal down (NOT recommended, BTW), there is plenty of "give" in the metal to allow you to do this without stressing it in any way. Other's experiences may vary, but I've done it this way for over 30 years, now, with all the campers, camper shells, and teardrops I've ever built, and I've never had any problems.

Good Luck, and as always ...

CHEERS!

Hi, Grant. I was just reading up on vents and came across this post. If you don't mind, could you tell me how you attach the aluminum to the top if not with glue? I am planning on an aluminum top and would appreciate your expertise. thanks!

The trim will hold your aluminum in place. A lot of people do use glue, but, unless you spend more on the glue than you will on your completed camper its probably not going to hold over time and may actually cause other problems. I have over 22,000 miles on my tear on all kinds of roads and have had 0 problems or leaks with my floated aluminum exterior. I don't remember any accounts of anyone else having issues either.

Thanks! I didn't realize that the trim would be enough and figured you'd have to tack it down in other places as well.

The Fantastic fan also comes with a gasket that will allow you to compress some of that gap out. I also try to place my fan in the profile where I can cheat the curve slightly without there being a flat spot in the profile. It helps reduce the gap when the fan is installed.

lfrazer98 wrote:Hi, Grant. I was just reading up on vents and came across this post. If you don't mind, could you tell me how you attach the aluminum to the top if not with glue? I am planning on an aluminum top and would appreciate your expertise. thanks!

Hi, Lauren!

I do staple/tack the metal down along the edges and ends where the fasteners will be covered by the Roof Edge Moldings, Galley Lid Hinge, and bottom Edge Molding. Have you had the chance to view the build I have going on over on my teardrops.net Facebook Page, yet? I installed the roof skin a couple of weeks ago or so, and there are some pics and comments about it over there.

Good Luck, and as always ...

CHEERS!

Hi, Grant.

I just liked the facebook page and forwarded it to my Dad since he is helping me build, or I am helping him build. I haven't had a chance to read down through it, but plan to!
We only have our floor in and are talking about where we are going to run our wires. Still planning A LOT, but have a lot of things decided. Trying to get the whole picture figured out so that we can make the best decisions we can.

Thanks for your help. It is very much appreciated!

Lauren