Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

ok now I can start my build, since I cant get my hf trailer till the end of February I need a couple of measurements, if I build a 5x8 on the 4x8 I need to know what is the distance from the top of the trailer to the top of the tire and then how much should I figure for the bounce of the tire? Or what is the distance from the top of the trailer frame to the top of the Tire cover thingy? CRS hits again!!! Thanks I have a lot of wood in the barn I can at least get it down and measure what I need.

Thanks for you help

Mary

Guday Mary,
Unfortunately, I don't have an HF trailer frame to measure. The only thing I have is the trailer frame I built to my own specs. If nothing else, the specs may give you an idea that might (?) be helpful to you.
From the top of the axle to underneath the frame is 4.9"
From the top of the axle to the top of the (3" x 2") frame, it is 7.9"
My tires are 25 5/8" in diameter. The top of the tire is 7" above the bottom of the frame (or 4" above the top of the frame). This distance will increase when the TD is finished and fully loaded. Most of this info, if not all of it, may not be of any use to you at all but may give you a comparison to use as helpful data.

The distance from the axle to the frame is also governed by whether you are using "Slip Springs" or springs using shackles. The use of Slip Springs may limit the distance obtained. A Slip Spring often has more "curvature" to try and gain a little more axle/frame clearance.
The really important dimension is specific to your own trailer. This is the distance from the top of the axle to underneath the frame. This distance is greatly influenced by the shape or the curve of your springs. This dimension may not be a standard size among the spring manufactures which is why I am so very limited in being able to help you. I used to work for an internationally known spring manufacturer producing all the drawings of every part that he produced or brought in. All the parts that were brought in from overseas were made to the specs of my drawings and the specs had very tight tolerances and uniform US and Aust. Standards.
The amount of bounce is dependent on the "stiffness" of the spring and the weight of the finished TD. As a general guide, a bounce of 2 1/2" would be the maximum amount on a rough road surface. Any more than 3" and I would consider a review of the springs as this is far too much for a small leaf spring on a trailer.
The Tire cover thingies are called "Fenders" in the US and "Mudguards" in Australia. The clearance from the top of the tire to under the fender must be a little more than the maximum deflection of the axle or the tire will hit and rub on the fender. An inch extra here would be a good start.
Hope this helps you or others reading thru it.

Kody

Kody. thanks for your answer. Thanks I wish I could make my own frame but that is beyond my expertise I have worked in wood some and remodeled my house so I do understand measuring a little. I have been sewing since I was a kid. Thanks for your info and I will check out the spring bounce when I get my Trailer I didn't think about that being a possible problem. I am getting a Harbor Freight Trailer in Feb. I just thought someone might know. or could tell me the measurement of the wood they used, like 2x4s, 2x6s or what. I have searched the forum and the build threads have seen lots of pictures but for some reason I couldn't tell what size. I haven't seen the measurement, either I over looked it (me probably ) or it wasnt mentioned. on a couple of threads it looked like 2x2s I am so ancious and I so want to get started.

Mary what profile of tear are you building?

Cliff

I am planning to use a benroy type. Not difficult I have lots of wood I know I will have to build a frame high enough the fender height and I am just trying to figure out how much and what wood. I figure to build a frame up over the tire but it having read the builds and enlarging picts so I could figure out I think a 1x4 is what I need to use but I really can't tell by the photos. and no one told what they used to go high enough to clear the tire on the HF trailer At least I couldn't find it. I really just need the measurement.

Mary

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/90000-90999/90154.pdf

help contact is "[email protected]" for technical questions !

I do know that from axle cradel to top of fender is 4 3/4 inches I am just not certain how deep the factory channel for the frame is. 2 1/4 is my best guess. So top of fender to frame might be 2 1/2 +/- I am certain that 3" will clear it. I used a 2 1/2 square tube frame and tossed the factory channel as mine had been in an accident.



DO Not crowd the fender is you bend it downward you will cut a 12" tire in half with the bolt in the top of the fender. I would suggest leaving the fender but replace the top bolt with an elevator bolt and place thread and nut up not down.


ask me how I know........

Boy do I know how to mess up an answer BobHenry It is my fault Let me explain again and perhaps you can understand. I need the measurement from the face top of the trailer frame to the top of the Fender. I have the wood to build the Wood frame for the floor support To Make it high enough to support the 5 foot wide plywood I need to know how thick to make the wood frame. It looks like about 4 inches. I am planning to use the the hf trailer just build on it and building up the base for the floor over the fender/tire.


Mary

We are on the same page.....

Let me explain....

I placed a 2 1/2 inch tube on the axle cradel (this replaced the 2 something frame tube)


On this 2 1/2 tube was placed a 3/4 floor and then I added a 1 1/2 curb around the opening that I had left for the fender so 2 1/2 + 3/4 + 1 1/2 = 4 3/4 inches if your frame is 2" thick and you subtract that from the 4 3/4 you arrive at 2 3/4 inches to the fender.

There is a bolt that protrudes a little more than 3/16 inch above the actual fender hence my arrival at 3" you are at 4" I think either will work.



look at pages 118, 117, and 116 in my album maybe the pics will help

Bob Henry, You know a picture is worth a thousand words where you used a 2 1/2 piece of wood, that is what I was wondering what should I use. Did you also build your Trailer Frame? I measured today and I have probably twenty five 1x4 by 12 and 16 feet long I will build a wood frame using the 1x4s and put them on edge I will have to build up probably 1/2 to 3/4 inch above that to clear the fender so I will just buy my ply wood in late Jan. I am not going to do anything special but I will be very thankful I have the wood already. you know about penny pinching. I will put in double wood and extra hardiness where I need to. The bolt situation and your tire is a lesson I will take to heart. I do understand and sorry that happened to you. I have a utility trailer I bought 18 years ago and had to replace the wood, I was very mindful to check the bolts on that (which way they went in) because I didn't want them to stick out and rub against anything (like me). but thanks again for reminding how much damage one bolt can do!!! Because I want light weight I am going to build using foam. it is just for this build for now. I have been thinking on how to design it so I can make it into a insulated woody looking one later on. Thanks again you have been very helpful .

Mary

I built 5 wide on the HF trailer kit (12" wheels) using 2x4 sub-floor framing. I didn't re-use the harbor freight fenders,
so I have 3-1/2" from the trailer deck to underside of floor. I think the clearance above my tire, to underside of plywood
deck is only about 2-1/4". Most of my camping trips are hours from home, and down miles of dirt forest service roads.
I am not gentle on my trailer and it has not rubbed on the underside of the plywood even one time.





I'm working on a new design with a friend right now, and we're only using 2" thick sub-floor framing. He'll have small fender
boxes down at his feet, under the end of the mattress, that are 1-1/4" tall. He will only have about 2" clearance above his tire,
which is only about 3-1/4" above the trailer frame.

I have allowed a maximum upward movement of the axle/suspension of 4". I then added another 1" for safety and security. This gives me 5" total clearance above the tire. The mudguards (fenders) will be custom build from fiberglass and or I might make them from wood and strip plank them. They will also have a compartment built in to store stuff that is needed in a hurry, eg, paper toweling, rags, flashlight etc. The lower outside edge of the mudguard will be about 1" higher than the top of the tire or maybe level with it. I want to be able to change a flat with as little hassle as possible. With the mudguards being higher and "deeper", a longer guard will be needed to help the overall size and shape blend in with the form and shape of the TD/cabin. This is an ideal area to play around with using a pencil and pad as it has great potential for light and bulky storage but still look nice and cool to the eye.
Just my ideas on the guards.

Kody

Wow I think I got it. I am trying to build on a budget and to use up the wood I have in the barn too. I think If I have to I will have enough wood to build the wood frame using a 1x4 laid down and the 1x4 on the sides then ply would work. yall have been great. I can use the rest of the 1x4s ripped down the middle to make spars inside the walls to support a future solar panel. I love the pictures. I will start my build of the top of my teardrop the last of January. I am a sight learner and the pictures make so much sense to me. I think I have the designs and everything is coming together. I have a couple of more questions but I will have to wait for now.
I know I will be able to build this real soon. I have another build project for the next week a dog house for my well. I have the wood and I am just going to cover the thing with roof tiles i have laying around.

You all have helped me so much, Thanks a bunch!!

Mary