lightweight tear

[thobbs]

I'm getting ready to build my first tear. I want to build it as light as possible. My pull vehicle is a 2006 TDI VW Beetle. I bought Cubby Plans and those from Deseret tear. Anybody have advice on how best to lighten them up.
Here are a few things I was thinking about
1. Buying an aluminum trailer instead of Habor Freight trailer
2. Would it weigh less not to insulate? How important is insulation?
3. No wiring and battery, just use battery push lights (night lights)
Thanks

[Gerdo]

I had thought about one of these
http://www.alumaklm.com/sections/produc ... category=5
Duane http://tnttt.com/profil ... file&u=259 approched his electrical different also. He went with a 6 volt lantern battery wired to his lights. Obviously not hard wiring lights will save some weight but will also save time and money. As far as not insulating? I only insulated my roof/hatch and floor. My walls are 3/4" non studded plywood. I have been out in mid 30 degree nights and it was't bad. I did insulate the roof to keep from baking in the sun. I used the silver reflective "Bubble Wrap" insulation and an inch of rigid foam. I did meet a couple out of the Ouray Colorado area that made a light Teardrop made out of Framed Dacron (Airplane Fabric). Duane should have their info because they were at the Colorado Campout this fall.

Keep exploring options and keep asking questions. Try to see some Teardrops in person and try to make it to a gathering.

Welcome and good luck with the sickness. (Teardrop building)

[toypusher]

thobbs,

I built a Cubby and I belive that you could save alot of weght by not using insulation. By this I mean that you should just use 3/4" sides, with no framing or insulation. I would still recommend insulating the roof, however. You could just put shelves in the cabin and galley instead of full cabinets. You could make it a woody and not have any aluminum to add weight. I would check the weight of an aluminum trailer against the weight of a metal one (Harbor Freight or Tractor Supply) and you may be suprised at what you find out. Do not put a water tank onboard (7 or so gallons of water weighs alot) Do not insulate or put an interior skin on the hatch. Use fiberglass or plastic fenders. If you use a HF trailer, get the 1175LBS vs the 1800LBS. I even think that you could get away with 1/2" sidewalls vs the 3/4" that I stated above (Not to sure about this, though). Use pine for the spars, except where the hatch attaches and be sure to double that one (use poplar or some hardwood) Wiring and lights do not weigh much, just put the battery in the galley area and it will make the tongue weight lighter.

That's about all I can think of right now!

Good luck with your build and WELCOME to the board.

[JunkMan]

We're building a tear to tow behind our TDI Beetle, and have the same concerns.

Most of the trailers that are used are overbuilt (mine included, but I'll fix that with my next tear). You can build a very basic trailer frame that will be almost as light as an aluminum trailer, without the expense. Look at any pop-up camper, and see how minimal their trailers are. There have been several posts about frame weight and overbuilding.

Insulation doesn't add much weight, it's how you install it that adds weight. If you use 3/4" plywood sides, then insulation, then 1/8" or 1/4" plywood inside you add a lot of weight. If you frame it out with 1" dimensional lumber, and put 1/8" or 1/4" ply on the inside and out, you can keep the weight down. Check out mine, and other peoples build sites to see how some of us have done this.

Any extras you add will add weight. Don't bother with a battery and water tank if you don't think you will need them. Wiring and lights don't weigh much, if you plan to camp where there is 110V availible.

One place where I see I can save weight is on my matress. I plan to use a standard household one, but if I went with a foam one it would weigh much less.

[toypusher]

One place where I see I can save weight is on my matress. I plan to use a standard household one, but if I went with a foam one it would weigh much less.

You could use and inflatible if you build to a standard size for the interior!

[toypusher]

Insulation doesn't add much weight, it's how you install it that adds weight. If you use 3/4" plywood sides, then insulation, then 1/8" or 1/4" plywood inside you add a lot of weight. If you frame it out with 1" dimensional lumber, and put 1/8" or 1/4" ply on the inside and out, you can keep the weight down. Check out mine, and other peoples build sites to see how some of us have done this..

Along these lines, use the 'foil/bubble/foil' type of insulation. Although it would not add to the structural integrity like the rigid insulation will.

I agree with the frame assment also. you could build a fram out of angle iron that would be plenty strong. I am planning a second teardrop at this point and will build my own frame out of angle iron. (planning 2x2x1/8" at this point, but it may change).

[JunkMan]

I built mine to fit a full sized mattress (54" wide inside). Never tried an inflatable, but it would definatly cut down on weight.

Another place some people get carried away is the floor. If you have a strong frame, all you need is 1/2", yet several people use 3/4" ply for the floor. I would probably go with 3/4" if I made a minimalist frame, but with the standard frame that has a cross member every 2', 1/2" is plenty.

Tires & wheels are another place you can trim weight. Narrow 13" tires versus a standard 14" or 15" (or even 16" for those that try to keep it authentic) will also trim a few pounds. I personally wouldn't use the 12" or smaller trailer tires, although there are thousands of trailers using them, and the are definatly light.

[toypusher]

I was thinking and I belive that an angle iron frame with crossmembers every 20 or 24 inches would not need any more than a 3/8" floor. Or if you want it insulated, you could use 2 pieces of 1/4" with 3/4" rigid insulation sandwiched between. Just another idea.

[asianflava]

For light weight K.I.S.S.
Most have already been mentioned
Simple storage shelves
simple construction
minimal electrical

The Cowmper was the lightweight champ for a while, it was not very complicated. No galley, and I don't think it had electrical (I could be wrong).

[TomS]

If I remember correctly the Cowper's electrical system is AC only. It consisted of a power strip and an electrical cord hatch. He ran an extension through the hatch and plugged it into the power strip. Pretty darn simple if you ask me.

[toypusher]

Here's and example of lightweight wall construction. WARNING: I have not tried this and don't know anyone who has. Just and example that should work.

[Chip]

Thobbs, A lot of weight can be trimed if you dont ;like most of us do try to over engineer the trailer,, If you are going to build one for the pavment then a light weight can be done saftely,, but If you are going rock hopping then ya might want to rethink the tow vehicle,, weight is gonna be an issue,,

an insulated wall is usually much lighter than a solid piece of plywood,, somewhere I remember a 3/4" sheet is about 75 lbs, Mikes framed weekender wall came in at about 40 lbs,, now these are give or take a few lbs,, also back off from thicker woods to thinner woods where you can,, just be careful,, electrical can be streamlined to use a 120v converter and or a small 12 v battery,, if ya got shore power leave the battery home,, Build your cabinets as shelves and use baskets or bins that can be removed, or stacked in the trailer,, use 032 alum instead of 040 alum on the outside or save more and just use one of the many coatings discussed here,, If you really really dont need it leave it off,, Look at everything you put into the trailer with this critical eye and you will save some weight,,

chipper

[mikeschn]

Here's and example of lightweight wall construction. WARNING: I have not tried this and don't know anyone who has. Just and example that should work.

Kerry,

That is how the cross section of the Lil Diner looks... so yes, it works...

Mike...

[R Keller]

Do search on "sandwich construction" on this site and you'll find loads of discussion of lightweight ideas. It's a lot more labor intensive and expensive though.

My Road Toad uses 1/8" plywood sandwiching 3/4" styrofoam (walls and floor) and 1.5" Styrofoam (roof). The construction is lighter than 3/4" plywood (a little more than 1/2" plywood becasue of interior framing) and many times stronger.

TDI as a pull vehicle though? No need to worry about going lightweight at all! Should be able to do ~2,000 lbs. no problem while getting great mileage.

Rik

[asianflava]

I figured that my walls and floor are about 30% lighter than 3/4in plywood. I used 1/8in faces with 3/4 framers and insulation.