Steel studs

[beetle_slayer]

For some reason, I always have to be different. Has anyone tried using steel studs spaced 1 ft apart with a thin fiberglass or plastic sheet on each side in place of plywood for the sides or top? This seems as though, if constructed correctly, would be lighter and as strong as plywood. Cost my be higher though but not oo much. Would most likely need a solid steel cross support for the rear hatch--no problem.

My other thought was to weld up and aluminum skeleton but AL is just to pricey.

Just want to be unique.

[mezmo]

I think most people's objections are the expansion-contraction of
them and how that interacts with the coverings expansion-contraction
rates. The general construction steel framing studs are also a bit
large for small trailer use and their dimensions are not easily changed.

If I recall - from my Whole Earth Catalogue browsing days - there was
something called Unistrut that was a square section tube with evenly
spaced holes, that could just be bolted together to build whatever
you wanted to [Whether it was pretty or not is another matter.].

I just Googled that: http://www.unistrut.us/index.php and
http://www.unistrut.us/index.php?WP=LItLibrary - if that is
the same one I'm thinking of, and found there are other shapes available
too now, and they even have a fiberglass version of them now - there is a
build in the build journal section where an ultra light TD was done with
some fiberglass framing members included. Either the regular steel or
these fiberglass struts may be a bit pricey [my speculation] but they may
be worth it, especially for the small amounts needed in a TD/TTT.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

[rmblefsh]

I've actually been researching this a lot and everyone advises against it... I on the other hand, have decided to take a stab at it and so far so good. My trailer is a bit oversized (About 7' X 11' and tall enough for me to sit at the U-shaped dinette), so I'm trying to make it as light as possible but with the best possible insulation.

I am using 2 1/2" studs but am butting them back-to-back to make I beam studs. I'll be sliding 2 1/2" rigid foam insulation between each set of I-beams and then wrapping the whole thing in 1/4 rigid foam, for a thermal break between the metal studs and the outer plywood skin. Then on top of that will be my 1/2 hardwood skin.

When I initially built the frame I screwed everything together, but have been gradually removing the screws and replacing them with pop-rivets.

It's really overkill but it will be very light, very ridged and extremely well insulated when all is said and done...

I've attached a Pic.

Tony