Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I wonder if any one had ever built of seen a camping trailer with a removable galley so that the trailer could also be used for moving large items? I would like to do this so I have the option.

Currently designing my build and looking at some trailer chassis tomorrow.

Many Thanks

Would a chuck box work for you?

Irmo Atomics wrote:Would a chuck box work for you?

kitchen_box_t21_2.jpg

Wow that could be a grand idea. Would the main structure be any weaker by not having a bulkhead?

Camp chef table organizer is mine......


http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/i ... +organizer

I built my galley real simple so it could be removed. I posted some older pictures below. I have since added an upper galley shelf that is on sliders and moves out of the way. The whole lower galley converts into a child's bunk bed and is removable. However, in practice it is easier to borrow my friends utility trailer and keep the tear clean and in camp-ready mode.

Thank you for asking. I have been thinking the same thingand will be watching this thread.
Smokey

the_real_jaykay wrote:...Would the main structure be any weaker by not having a bulkhead?

Hi jaykay,

The bulkhead does stiffen and strengthen the structure, so not
having one would make it 'weaker' than having one. But you can
use different approaches to give some dimensional strength without
having one. It all depends on the size of your design and how you
want to use it w/o the galley as to what may work best for you.

Some suggestions: [Assuming location where the bulkhead usually
is located.]
1 - Use some of the large heavy duty "L" brackets [~6-8inch legs] on
the top and bottom on each side . You can bolt them through the walls
for more overall strength over just screwing them to the wall.
2 - Plywood right triangles with cleats can be glued/epoxied or
similarly attached as above. Cutoff/scrap 3/4inch plywood would be
a straightforward way.
3 - If stick framing the sidewalls and using spars, you could frame in
some diagonal framing similar to the the plwood right triangles - or apply
those [rt triangles] when in the framing stage.
4 - A 3 to 8 inch wide 3/4 inch board or ripped piece of plywood can be attached
perpendicularly to the walls, a/o walls and roof, that will act as a flange
and help give some stiffening. This could be applied at the 'normal
location' for a bulkhead, or at the end's perimeter opening for the rear
hatch/cargo door.
5 - Interior built-in 'furniture' on both sides could act in a similar manner
if built with their bracing function in mind as well as their other function(s).
6 - Use a 6-8inch wide board/ripped plywood piece as "Crown Molding"
along each side securely fastened with glue/screws - whatever fits your fancy -
to the walls and roof. The sides are beveled at 45 degrees on each long side
to allow for this. This can also act as a wiring chase and a location to mount
overhead lights and switches etc..

I'm sure there are other approaches as well...

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

Irmo Atomics wrote:Would a chuck box work for you?

kitchen_box_t21_2.jpg

Do you have plans for this? my Dad made one for Mom 50 years ago from plans or a kit and now I want one to add to the tear.
removable so I can put it at the end of a picnic table.
Karen

nhstt wrote:Do you have plans for this?

A simple google search for 'chuck box' or 'patrol box' will find many free plans. Most plans call for 3/4" ply - if it will be in the tear most of the time, and only be moved from the tear to a nearby table, then you can get away with 1/2" (to save some weight).

Have any of you seen these or have them?
http://www.swissroombox.com/

TESKELLY wrote:Have any of you seen these or have them?
http://www.swissroombox.com/

I just did then I saw the price!!!!

This chuck box idea seams to be an ideal solution though.

That's the way I'm going. Probably 2 that I can remove and mount on the side of the camper while camping.

I was at Camping World and saw an rv table that gave me ideas. The door of the cabinets swings up to make a table. I'm thinking two of these,one on each side tall enough so open doors meet in the middle.
Karen
Ladybug-out build journal viewtopic.php?f=50&t=55602

mezmo wrote:The bulkhead does stiffen and strengthen the structure, so not having one would make it 'weaker' than having one.

Yes, that's my thought too. The thing the galley bulkhead does (structurally) is to make the body resistant to racking - it stops the roof moving from side to side at the hatch hinge.

Not having the bulkhead is unlikely to cause an immediate problem (unless you wanted to put a roof rack and boat/luggage on the top) but in the long term, I think every bump in the road will make the body move more than it would if there was a bulkhead there, and after some years the body may become 'tired' and flexible.

One decent screw in each of the four corners of a removable galley bulkhead, so that the corners can be locked back into the body, would be pretty much as strong as a fixed bulkhead. I'm thinking of something like threaded wing screws going into a threaded plate, rather than wood-screws into wood which would quickly deteriorate.