Belt Sanding technique

[spbiknut]

Ok...got myself into a pickle (as expected). I cut out my profiles and it's been a while since I used a jigsaw so to make a long story short the cut edges of my profiles look like something that surfers would enjoy on a larger scale. I have a belt sander (equally long since I've used one of these) and plan to even things out a bit. I cut a little extra, but not enough to cover a couple of spot in particular where the blade of the jigsaw "walked" a little. I've read the Belt Sander 101 thread. Just need some extra pointers and wisdom from you gurus.

Thanks,

-Troy

[danlott]

I would lay your profile flat and turn the belt sander on edge. This way the weight of the sander will not be pushing down on the wall and you will have better control of how much and where to remove material from the profile. Use 80 or 100 grit paper, belt sanders are real aggressive and to low of a grit will be harder to contol. If possible use a pencil to mark areas that you need to remove, this will help to ensure that you do not remove too much material.

Once you get your profile looking good use a router and guide bit to make a copies for your sidewalls.

As a side note for anyone else reading this, I think you should always cut just outside of your profile lines and then use a belt sander to sand up to the lines. You will end up with much better results than just using a jig saw alone.

Dan

[halfdome, Danny]

You can repair those low spots so you don't have to alter your profile.
You could take your belt sander to make a flat spot for the patch.
I prefer to use hardwood for Dutchman's if it isn't seen.
Here's a link to explain in more detail.
http://www.oldhouseonline.com/how-to-make-a-dutchman-patch/
Danny

[bobhenry]

I think the real factor here is the jig saw "walking".

When I find mine thinking for me it is because the blade is dull.

On something this critical put in a brand new blade before you start the cut and YOU will have control.

[Woodbutcher]

I also find it easier to just cut outside your line. Then sand to the line with the belt sander. Clamp both sides together before you sand them. This way they match, bo bo's and all.

[spbiknut]

Thanks for the input. I really appreciate you guys taking the time to help me with my blunder. I did make sure to use a new blade, but i think my problem was pushing forward a little too hard. I also did cut outside the line by about 1/16 to 1/8 all the way around...its just a couple of spots that I think I'm going to have to use the dutchman's patch to fill in. I'll keep you guys posted.

-Troy

[Fyddler]

+1 on cut outside the lines, clamp the two sides together and use a belt sander to sand to the line. Sanding lengthwise with the sander and keep it moving gives nice gentle lines. Stop in one place two long and you will get a dip. Also by clamping the two sides together they're not be exact to your design, but they will be exact to each other.

[aggie79]

Also by clamping the two sides together they're not be exact to your design, but they will be exact to each other...

...as long as you keep the belt sander perpendicular to the sidewall.

[CarlLaFong]

I hated jigsaws all my life. What a total crap tool. You're lucky to cut within an inch of the line, on a good day. Then I bought a good one, a Bosch. What a great tool. It cuts straight and fast.It's almost as accurate as my bandsaws.
As far as straightening out a bad edge, I like to use a template and a flush bit in the router. You can make the template from 1/4 inch ply or Masonite

[markhusbands]

I had far better luck with a router than a jigsaw. That's one of the reasons I decided to go with simple 3' and 18" radii. I could make a template by putting the router on a swingarm, and each time I wanted to crate a new radius, like the 1/4 hatch notch, I could just knock the 1/4 off the template with the router and then use the template with a trim bit on the finished piece.

[woodywrkng]

Maybe it's too late for this, but you would have much better luck creating your profile with one piece of 1/4" hardboard, and using that as a template for both of your sides. You can then cut the sides with a router, using a bit with a bearing which rides against the hardboard.