Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Has anyone welded a receiver tube on only one frame member ( rear ) with any luck? I'm worried the torsion action from bouncing will make the bikes heave to and fro and may break the weld or damage the TD. I was thinking of using a 48" long tube so I could weld it to two frame members. Is this an over kill or would a 12" tube do. My frame tubing is 2" wide 3" tall. Danny

...my take is to do a double point mount for the receivier tube because of the fears you mentioned...I don't know if I would go all the way to the next(48") cross-member(which seems rather farway) but rather put another crossmember in at the 6, 12 or 24" point...what ever would work out best for you and install receiver tube between it and the rear crossmember
madjack

Hi Danny,

I tried to mount a bike rack the back of a tent trailer like you said and the bikes bounced around way too much. I think the rear frame member would have failed from the work-hardening. I ended up running a piece of lighter gage of angle iron from the receiver tube to the next crossmember to stabilize the receiver tube. The bike rack was nice and solid after that.

Joanne

halfdome wrote::D Has anyone welded a receiver tube on only one frame member ( rear ) with any luck? I'm worried the torsion action from bouncing will make the bikes heave to and fro and may break the weld or damage the TD. I was thinking of using a 48" long tube so I could weld it to two frame members. Is this an over kill or would a 12" tube do. My frame tubing is 2" wide 3" tall. Danny

HI MadJack & Joanne, my frame members are 30" apart to allow for a 15" spare and I need to have the tube overhang out the back 7"to clear the overhang of the TD from the frame. I did glue in 1" Baltic Birch in the area between frame members for backing but I feel uncomfortable with one point welded. I guess I'll bite the bullet and order the 48" tube ( $70.00 ) and cut it down to 41" before welding. Thanks for the input guys. Danny

I used outbacks rear set up its 2x2 .120 wall square tubing and it's doubled up like this http://www.outbackteardrop.com/images/c01.jpg or check out http://www.outbackteardrop.com/ worked for me with out a problem.

halfdome wrote:I'll bite the bullet and order the 48" tube ( $70.00 ) and cut it down to 41" before welding. Thanks for the input guys. Danny[/b][/color]

That is alot of money to spend on the tube. I just went to a local metal supplier and bought a piece of square tube and welded it in. I think it cost me less than $20.00.

Okay its soapbox time again!

I have a 97 Jeep wrangler and I tow a trash hauler trailer sometimes loaded up to 2500 lbs and I do it with a BUMPER HITCH. Thats right a small receiver welded to the rear bumper of the Jeep. The bumper is only .100 (less than 1/8 steel) and is in the shape of a C with the top being 3 inches the side being 5 inches and the bottom where the hitch is welded 2.5 inches wide. The bottom is not closed off and it flexes a bit when I have a heavy load on it. I have been using this for about five years now without a problem.

Now as to a bike rack that weighs in about 50 lbs and the bikes (2) about 100 lbs you might just want to add a 1x1 stiffner to the next frame cross member. My neighbor has a Toyota RV and wanted to carry a tandem bike on a bike rack, he found the same problem with his front receiver , it bounced all over the place and because of the front suspension cannot add a stiffner on the front receiver. He finally put the bike on his rear ladder.

Dan

Just an idea. Years ago, I mounted a bumper type bike rack (two upright pieces with extensions from the top to hold the bikes) on the front of my Ford F150 pickup with a camper on the back. Later, I tried the same with a folding bike rack designed to mount on the rear trunk of a car, strapping it to the hood and that worked ok too. I loosened the handle bars and turned them parallel to the wheel so they wouldn't hit the hood. And, it might be necessary to remove the inside pedal from the one closest to the grill. I had no problems seeing past or through the bike frames, as not too much stuck up high enough to be a problem.

If you are just using it as a bike rack it will hold up fine. I plan of adding a strap from the bike rack to the top of the teardrop, this will decrease the amount of "bounce". Just make sure the tube wall is not too thin. I also use mine to hold a hitch rack to haul extra gear if needed.

Thanks for your input, I'm going to spend the $70 on the heavy duty tube with reinforcement on the end, no chance of deflection & cheap insurance. Danny

My chassis is 2x2x1/8" steel and I welded a standard 2" receiver on the single rear cross member. It holds my CT70 with no problem.

http://www.bobsteardrop.com/ConstructionGallery/pages/CT70.htm

That CT70 is so cool. I wanted something similar when I was younger... Now that I am as old as the hills, I realize I may never have one... but it's stilll cool.

Thanks for sharing that photo!

Mike...

I'm really impressed, how long is that tube? Did you weld it on with the floor on or off? My TD body hides the frame and I would prefer to mount a tube last so I can notch the rear skirt with ease. My son is my welder and he is concerned he would start a wood fire from the transfer of heat while welding. Are there any shields for welding like they have for sweating copper?

Halfdome,

The receiver is Reese 6 " long. I also forgot that I have a logitudinal tube that runs from the center of the trailer to the rear cross member and the receiver is welded to both pieces. Someone suggested doubling up a section of the rear cross member to increase the attach point for the receiver...I think that would work just as well.

I welded mine on after the trailer was assembled and I have a wood subframe...no problems with fire...just don't try to weld it all in one pass...let it cool and you should not have any problems.