Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Is there already a thread on this topic?

I want to get some idea of what router bits to purchase for my build, also any ideas of best place to purchase. I looked at Rockler and they seem quite expensive but I assume I need good quality carbide bits to deal with ply wood.

Also any how to tips on router technique would be greatly appreciated!

thanks everyone.

drew.

Tip number one, make sure you move against the rotation.

I bought the bits from Lowes as I needed them, more expensive but I never knew what I needed until I got there. I've seen some decent prices from Grizzly, but can't comment on the quality because I never bought any. The one I used most was a top bearing straight bit.

Ditto Asianflava on the bit. I used (two) 1/2 inch flush trim bits, carbide, one with the bearing near the router, and the other with the bearing away from the router. It kinda depends on your setup I reckon, such as if you're using the router freehand or in a table. I used these with templates made from 1/4" hardboard for curves on the sides, galley hatch ribs, and door openings. That way everything matches perfectly. Take your time making the template, and you can do the rest quickly and easily. Here's a link to an interesting bit which could be used both ways.........http://toolmonger.com/2008/03/10/combination-flush-trimtemplate-router-bit/

I wish I'd used a router rather than a jigsaw when I cut the walls. This video shows how I cut the doors. http://youtu.be/31KdY-qlzHw

The doors showed how badly I'd cut the opening with a jigsaw.

I know what to do for version 2.

Have a look at the Router Forum.... all kinds of posts covering basic skills to advanced jig making etc.

http://www.routerforums.com/

Regarding bits, buy as you need them and don't but a "kit". The kit has many bits you'll never use.

I am a big fan of Whiteside carbide-tipped and solid carbide bits. They are expensive but will outlast a high strength steel bit by several magnitudes. A decent manufacturer that is usually available at the big box stores is Freud.

The bits I used most on my build are (in order of use):

1. top bearing flush trim bit (bearing between shaft and bit)
2. bottom bearing flush trim bit (bearing at the bottom of the bit)
3. downcut spiral carbide bit

#1 and #2 are sometimes called pattern or template bits. To use bit #3 you need to use guide bushings with your router.

While I have a router table, I do 4-5 times more freehand routing than using the table. A table is handy but not necessary.

As others have said, route in the direction that feeds into the cutting of the bit. For an outside edge this is in a counterclockwise direction. For an inside edge this is clockwise. If you use a router table, then reverse the feed direction for each.

Don't let the sound of this intimidate you. There are many good tutorials online. After practicing on a few scraps you'll have it down in no time.

I am realizing I should probably buy a better router. I have a Ryobi with a 1/4 chuck. Look's like a variable speed with 1/2" would be the best. I really don't mind buying tools for this project, think of all the money I am saving over buying a manufactured teardrop! I am sure it won't hurt to have two routers for the job anyway. The ryobi is good for smaller cuts and cabinet stuff.

Thanks for recommendation for the Whiteside bits. I have heard other good things about them.

Variable speed is definitely worth the added cost.

And for a more comfortable freehand or at least hand held option, the RotoZip and Dremel models have alot to offer as well!

All of the name brand bits will serve you well. Just stay away from No Name or Harbor Fright stuff. As far as routers, I only have seven of them
You can't beat a Porter Cable 690 or any of it's variants. I have two of them........or is it three???
Variable speed is nice if you're using it for a router table, but I never use it freehand. Get a router speed control from Rockler or one of the other vendors

I have used a refurbished black & decker 1/4" collet router for close to 20 years. I bought it when I was first married with the plan to get a better one down the road, but this one just about everything I need. I did all of my routing on my camper with it. Just learn how rouse what you have properly and you should be fine. Unless you just want to but the better one, there is nothing wrong with nicer tools

Also, remember that the router is only spinning the bit. You are controlling the cut with your hand pressure. I would suggest you use a jigsaw to rough cut the shape of what you at using and then finish up using a template as previously mentioned. Just remember to cut about 1/4" or less with every pass. This will help prevent tear out and will keep the bit cooler longer which will help it stay sharper longer.

Sears has a line of Craftsman router bits that appear to be of equal or better quality to the Freud stuff at the big box store, and are about 2/3 the cost ($19 vs. $29 for a typical round over bit with bearing).

I have used two routers during my project, a 1/4 inch plunge and a 1/4 inch Ryobi.

The Ryobi has finer depth setting, but no plunge feature, and took a bit of work to get a universal collar adapter plate to fit, but works with the table that came with it as a package deal.

The plunge router has come in handy at times, and allows me to leave the other set up in the table when convenient.

I have used four key bits while building TPCE: 1/2 top bearing straight 2 flute cutter (longer is better); 1/2 inch bottom bearing straight 2 flute (both Freuds, the top bearing collars like to spit out the tiny set screw); 1/8 inch (Craftsman) and 1/4 (Ryobi) round overs.

I suppose you could just plane and sand to get the 1/8 inch round over, but it is quick and comes out nicer with the router.

I have used a 1/2 straight w/o bearing, too, but the top bearing would have done the job as well.

As a tool junky, I probably have a hundred router bits. The only one that is a must for building a trailer is a flush cut bit. You can trim plywood or aluminum skins flush with them. They work just fine as a regular, straight cut bit as well. Depending on your project, other bits may be needed, Roundovers are nice to have. Various ogee bits are available to put a nice profile on cabinets. It's a sickness. Before you know it you've got multiple panel raisers, stile and rail sets, slot cutters, finger joint cutters, door pull cutters. The latest catalog from MSC becomes your porn of choice

I have the 1/4" Ryobi and I dont have a problem with it, good for basic stuff. I also started with a cheap bit set, 30 bits for $20. It was good to start with that so as the bits wore, I knew which bits I used the most and replaced them with better ones. I'm glad I did it that way instead of buying expensive bits that I would never use.

Got my first couple of Whiteside bits. They are nice and cut like butter. the cut especially well when I make a mistake! Also think my Ryobi will be fine and will likely get the speed control for the aluminum cuts.

thanks for the tips.