Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I am finishing up the galley in the Crouching Tiger... applying spar-var with a bristle brush... seeing the drag lines was wondering if anyone has ever used a foam 'brush' and if so, how did they like it..? Some of the foam brushes I've gotten a h/d have been kind of wimpy-wet noodle like, so that would be a concern of mine...

Anyway, anyone using foam on varnish?

Arne, I have used foam brushes on urethane to "tip" the finish when applying the 'thane...it will eliminate the "drag" marks a regular brush leaves...to "tip"...wet the foam brush with product and then drag (in same direction) the foam brush down the work piece, using just the "tip" end of the foam brush...and yeah, I just use the cheapie brushes...one note...if the work surface is rough, it can pull apart a foam brush, leaving tiny particle of foam behind
madjack

that makes sense, so I have to apply it with a bristle brush, then drag with a foam..... evidently, foam is better for dragging/tipping, than application.... good tip.

I use a good quality brush, wet edge, and fine touch. Don't seem to get brush marks. Practice a little and you can get the hang of it (feather in).

Just how I do it!

I used foam brushes with pretty good results. I could see some lines after I sanded it down between coats. I used the Urethane in a spray can for my top coat. I'm happy with the results.

Foam brushes are an excellent way to apply Spar-Var...............but then so is a spray gun....................it won't leave any brush marks or bits of foam behind.

Chris C wrote:Foam brushes are an excellent way to apply Spar-Var...............but then so is a spray gun....................it won't leave any brush marks or bits of foam behind.

I agree totally with Chris...spraying is the way to go...however there are some situations where overspray is unacceptable so a brush must be used...in those cases tipping with a foam brush can be a good solution to a smooth finish
madjack

Doug Hodder gave me a tip......... use a foam roller to put on the product and use a foam brush to drag out the bubbles left behind. It worked great!! I tell you what, you can REALLY lay down the spar with a roller!!!

WarPony wrote:Doug Hodder gave me a tip......... use a foam roller to put on the product and use a foam brush to drag out the bubbles left behind. It worked great!! I tell you what, you can REALLY lay down the spar with a roller!!!

Alot easier to keep a 'wet edge', I would bet!

I've done a lot of marine varnishing and have only used pure China bristle brushes. A good varnish applied within the right temperature ranges and humidity levels should always have time to "lay down" which means to self-level. If the varnish is so thick that it's leaving stroke marks as it dries try adding about 10% Penetrol to the varnish. Never brush varnish too much and always in the direction of the grain. And as Toypusher said above - keep a wet edge... I have also sprayed varnish but only as a final coat and for that I thinned it with Naptha. Not saying the other advice isn't valid, just that is the way I've always done it... Dave

I vote foam brushes with a good quality spar! IMHO...for spar the big enemy is dust....Clean your area, clean it again, let the dust settle and avoid stirring up any dust for a day prior to varnishing... wet the floor and worksurfaces around the shop with a spray bottle filled with water (this helps kill any static and again settle dust), use a filter cloth and a disposable container so you don't dip right into the can of varnish..wet sand with 220 between coats and rinse thoroughly between coats ( a minimum of three coats)...and good luck!

toypusher wrote:I use a good quality brush, wet edge, and fine touch. Don't seem to get brush marks. Practice a little and you can get the hang of it (feather in).

Just how I do it!

That's how I do it too. I tried a foam brush and it left a ton of brush strokes.
Bruce

First, I really dislike painting of any type. I especially do not like plywood edges. I'm doing a couple of cupboard doors made just of 1/2" birch ply... I do the edge to fill the ply, and feather the slop that runs over onto the flat.... then I paint one side (these are only about 1 sq. ft)... once that side is done, I take a nail in each hand and jam the points into the ply edge, pick it up and set the var'd side down on a board with 3 nails pointed up in a triangle... then I do the top and keep it from wiggling around by sticking the point of an awl on the top surface..... kind of an 'iron maiden' technique.....

It leaves a few tiny pin pricks from the nail ends, but hey, I just want to get the job done.... at the end, I go around and try to be sure I don't have any drips (that will be noticeable)....

I used to use 'flavored' varnish but have gone to clear. Like the looks and dribbles don't show up as bad....

If you are going to put hinges on those doors, just put a couple of screws in where they will be and hang the thing up to put the finish on. Just a suggestion.

I've used foam rollers also. They work great. Only cost a couple of dollars. Store them in a plastic bag in the freezer, with varnish on them, ready for the next coat. Also buy a cheap tray, a buck, and just let it dry between coats.