Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I built a 5X10 TD and couldn't find 5 foot wide aluminum anywhere. I called a placed in Denver another member recommended and he poo-pooed shipment said it'd be cost prohibitive albeit, had a fair price on the sheeting. So, I bought 4 X 10 0.40 sheeting here in OKC for 59.00 per sheet. Had 2 sheets cut in half. One half of a sheet will be used for the hatch. Now I'm wondering, can they crimp the two joints I need well enought (flat enough) to properly use with the aluminum trim around the roof edges? If I have to I can order one lousy sheet of 5X12 from a supplier and pay the $100.00 dollars shipping (I'm guessing on shipment).
So, do you think they can put a lock on the sheets that will facillitate trim?
Thanks!

Call or e-mail Lufkin Trailers, they have a dealer in OKC. McTeardrops got his aluminum there. I e-mailed the one in San Antonio and they were receptive, only required 24hours notice prior to me picking it up.

Only thing is, it is 101 inches (I think) so there will be quite a bit of waste, at least you don't have to worry about seams.

John...on the Camp-Inn 5ft'ers they simply overlap by about 2"s and use an automotive type urethane adhesive(windshield adhesive)...this overlap falls out on a spar and they then screw it down every couple inches. With a "french seam" like your talking about, I would worry about the thin aluminum cracking along the crimp line...ask your sheetmetal man for advice about that
madjack

MJ, I think you mean overlap with the "open" end toward the rear/slope
and the automotive goop is similar to the tarry substance they use on windshields?

And make sure one bead of the urethane is under the row of screws. That way they pass through the sealant and the screws don't leak. Predrill the holes in the top skin so that they look neat and straight.

Cary

I guess that's the way I'll go, I called Lufkin Trailers and they sold out ot some other company and they don't have the 5x12 sheets. That's good news, at least I don't have to go to the sheet metal shop. This thing is getting expensive, somewhere around 1,500.00 as I figure it. Now gotta get some zinc or stainless steel sheet metal screws. Thanks gentlemen, I appreciate the helpful coments.

Aluminum joints must be really hard to smoke, aren't they?

John6012 wrote:MJ, I think you mean overlap with the "open" end toward the rear/slope
and the automotive goop is similar to the tarry substance they use on windshields?

...yes, and that "tarry" stuff is also known as E.B.S.(evil black stuff) so have rags and solvent on hand at the begining...it is almost impossible to remove when it has set up
madjack

ps. these sikaflex products would also be suitable...the 221 can be had in grey...the 252 in black or white

toypusher wrote:Aluminum joints must be really hard to smoke, aren't they?

Kinda like Cryons, hard to light but they do draw smoooooth!

John6012 wrote:I guess that's the way I'll go, I called Lufkin Trailers and they sold out ot some other company and they don't have the 5x12 sheets. That's good news, at least I don't have to go to the sheet metal shop. This thing is getting expensive, somewhere around 1,500.00 as I figure it. Now gotta get some zinc or stainless steel sheet metal screws. Thanks gentlemen, I appreciate the helpful coments.

John...look around for a Fastenall store (online also) for your SS screws...much better prices/selection than hardware or box stores

TP...they are just hard to roll...keeping them lit can be a bit offa a problem also
madjack

I jus thought of something, do you think it'd be a good idea or overkill to put a strip of aluminum moulding across the laps to make it look better? If it's sealed, I don't think it'd matter much - it wouldn't leak anway...

John..I think that would be fine...they even make an extrusion for just such purposes, it is available as either plain or insert type...the great thing about buildin' it yourself is you can do pretty much whatever you want...ain't it great
madjack

Thanks, Tis great to do it yourself. Only thing is I keep making decisions and then correcting them. And mistakes galore. Already covered up some wiring and had to fish for it thru the rigid foam board behind the interior wall panels. Was so upset at that I was determined not to make the same mistake on the other side when I put in the other oak panel. Then, two days later after glueing and all realized I forgot to put in fender "backers" that I had put in on the other side. Oh well. I will not make the same mistakes on future teardrops. They'll be different ones.

You will want self drilling screws so you can go through the second layer of aluminum. Fastenal has good SS ones with hex heads. #8s are best, and as long as you can.

The trim idea is a good one. I have done that.

Cary

Put the screws about 5 inches apart?