Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I posted a question about trim but I think my question goes deeper than that...

Do I need to first apply epoxy. Then paint. Then apply some sort of waterproof tape at the seams and stick the trim to that?

Here is a picture of my camper so far. I need trim or water protection where the front wall meets the roof and where the side walls meet the roof?

I'm a newbie so please don't skip any steps because I've never built anything before. Thanks.

I covered my tear with glued on canvas, wrapping around the edges, then painted with regular latex exterior house paint.

We are VERY happy with how it turned out, and how it's held up to storage outside for a year and a half already.
Check out my build journal for more info.



Sam

Its probably not the proper way to do it, but since I used Loctite PL Premium adhesive to glue all seams and joints together, I just continued on with the same to fill any gaps. I used it like caulking, and then used polyurethane and acrylic enamel to cover when cured. No air leaks or cracks in 1.5 years since I did that; I expect none since the PL is pretty good stuff. I had one seam exposed (just out from under my canopy) to some heavy rain on my only outing in it; no moisture penetrated (it was the biggest seam and usage of the PL (on the roof). But I moved the canopy forward and covered it, before any more rain came (didn't).

Tscar,

Caravan joint/edge rubber seal.
The tear is clad in steel and alloy diamond pattern on the bottom sections.

RD

I used 4" fiberglass tape and layup epoxy on all my corners after sealing all the wood with CPES. I then painted everything with two coats of Zinsser oil based primer and three coats of Rustoleum. After all that I installed my edge trim. You can see details in my journal at this link: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=49333&hilit=les45

If you plan on doing your edges with fiberglass tape and epoxy, where the top joins the sides etc. It is really hard if not impossible to get the cloth to fold over a sharp 90 deg. angle and wet out without lifting and having an air pocket trapped under the cloth tape....It is best to radius all corners before trying this.....

That is how it's done when building boats!

I wrapped my edges with fiberglass and epoxied (my whole tear is covered in fiberglass). It is not hard to wrap edges, just time consuming. You have to round your edges over a bit first. I used a 1/2" roundover bit I think and then took the belt sander and rounded it a little more. If you want the edges feathered in and non conspicuous you will do a lot of epoxy coating and sanding until you get it fair. But to me it is worth it, absolutely. I have no problem with leaks, at least not through my wall to ceiling joint, and don't ever anticipate any. It also adds a lot to the structural integrity of the unit and you have no potential water penetration points from the screws used to attach trim. It's certainly not the only way, or the easiest or fastest way, but it's a good way.

For aluminum or steel skin, you use butyl tape under the trim to seal everything. Butyl tape is like flexible gum.

http://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT18341-40-Butyl-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382446891&sr=8-1&keywords=butyl+tape

Basics are work from inside out.. You have to **finish** each layer as you go.... Smooth and round and fill all edges and cracks and divots before next layer/operation.... Its pretty hard to cover a "ouch" with another layer with out it showing through from previous layer if there is a problem in previous layer.... OF course a it will depend on what final covering will be, if its aluminum or fiberglass sheet goods its not as critical to be ** perfectly ** smooth as if it going to be a painted surface....

Dale