Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Posted: **Fri Oct 25, 2013 11:57 pm**

I went above and searched for hatch and found several sites most only lasted on page.
The tricks are to bend wood or cut it out of thick plywood 3/4
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=27491
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=57171
viewtopic.php?t=5199
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=45917&start=180 they offer an complete build so you may want to read the whole thing.

google on steam boxes http://www.google.com/#q=wood+steam+box
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=53938

there is quite a lot on you tube too.

got any to share when it comes to building a teardrop galley hatch .

Ron

Posted: **Sat Oct 26, 2013 5:50 am**

I've always had a different approach to building a hatch. Instead of building heavy to prevent "Spring Back", Use materials that Don't "Spring Back"

I use FRP and Aluminum.

I build 2 outside rails, 1" thick (by using 2 pieces of 1/2") And cross spars. Then I cover the outside with FRP, good side in extending 1 1/2 past the rails on both sides.

FRP does not "Spring Back" and is strong enough when bowed around the hatch to not flex...as well as being stable enough to Triangulate the hatch.

I also install a second sheet of FRP on the inside, good side in as a finish.

2 sheets is more than enough, then sheath the outside with Aluminum.

I seal the outside edges with this;

I know, I know. But doesn't water get into the sides?

No! I build the sides in 3" at the hatch, and run the outside corner molding straight through. This is a very common area for leaks. The FRP/Aluminum extends 1 1/2" past the galley opening and I put a second outside insert molding on the inside of the galley.

This insert molding is 3/8" tall with a vinyl insert that acts as the hatch's seal. Plus I extend the offset Hurricane hinge past the galley opening.

For the water to get in it has to run down, make a right or left hand turn, run up hill and jump over a 3/8" tall molding that is under the FRP/Aluminum.

In addition the 2 outside corner insert moldings create a good Trough for the water to run down there by directing the water out and off the trailer.

Plus I extend the offset Hurricane hinge past the galley opening.

These shots are from 3 different trailers of mine, but the theory is still the same.

Happy Trails

Len

Posted: **Sun Oct 27, 2013 12:28 am**

I saw this on you tube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5nYfdM8d_Q
We sell it at home Depot but I never knew what it stood for, We sell it for shower walls.
This guy also offered a second video on expansion
did you paint your FRP?

Posted: **Sun Oct 27, 2013 9:13 am**

Ron Dickey wrote: Did you paint your FRP?

I've never painted the FRP on any of my trailers, mainly because it wasn't exposed to the exterior.

But here's a post I made a while ago about FRP outside.

None of this was ever painted and Never Yellowed.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=35105&hilit=+FRP

Happy Trails

Len

Posted: **Sat Nov 02, 2013 9:47 pm**

The smartest thing I did on my build was to purchase Steve Fredrick's teardrop Shop Manual. (run a search here). It's not cheap but worth every nickel.

The hatch? It was actually rather simple and straight forward following his manual. I waisted a fair amount of blood pressure wondering how big a challenge it was going to be. His method uses part of the wall and an interior piece made from 1/2" baltic birch.

Here's some pics:

No springback and no leakage. :beer:

TL

Posted: **Sun Nov 03, 2013 11:51 pm**

Thanks for the pictures, it is something that we dread until we understand the simplicity of it. :lol:

Kinda new it all all along but until you dive in you just do not know if the water will be cold or warm. :thumbsup:

now what did you do different that was not in those plans??

Ron

Posted: **Mon Nov 04, 2013 12:09 am**

Ron Dickey wrote:Thanks for the pictures, it is something that we dread until we understand the simplicity of it. Kinda new it all all along but until you dive in you just do not know if the water will be cold or warm.

now what did you do different that was not in those plans??

Ron

Not much... other than cover in .040 aluminum. Steve builds (gorgeous) woodies. His shop manual isn't a set of plans. The design is up to you. His manual just shows you a different method (from most) tear builds and it's really well thought out. Building a teardrop is a big project and there's lots of agonizing as you well know.

TL

Posted: **Sat Nov 16, 2013 1:22 am**

I found this research pc done by Grant for a different site and moved it over hear, I find it very interesting. :thinking:

it was for a guy who's galley hatch was leaking!

grant whipp wrote:So, here's how the test went:

From left to right: using my Door Seal; ACE Extreme Climate Rubber Tape Part # 5131594; 1/8"x1/2" closed cell weather seal:

Close-up of the Door Seal installation ... notice how the edge of the bottom of the seal is right against the "shoulder" on the hinge's horizontal flange:

Close-up of the ACE Rubber Tape, installed the same as the Door Seal:

This image shows the various "range of motion" in the hinge before the seals start "sealing" ... notice that with the 1/8"x1/2" closed cell weather seal, the hatch would have to rotate 90º before any possibility of keeping out water intrusion, therefore I've eliminated that seal as a possibility:

Close-up of the Door Seal and the degree of rotation to produce a seal (sorry, bad pic, but you get the idea):

Close-up of the ACE Rubber Tape and degree of rotation to produce a seal:

Water test phase, after 30 minutes, no water intrusion past the seals of either type:

In conclusion, I'd venture to say that, depending on the degree of rotation on your galley lid, one or the other of these seals will eliminate the chance of of water intruding into the hinge with the hatch lid raised. With my Door Seal, full range of rotation for the hinge is limited to about 90º, with the ACE Rubber Tape you'll get about 105º ... obviously, the Door Seal starts sealing sooner in rotation but limits that rotation a bit, while the ACE Tape starts sealing a bit later in rotation but allows about the same amount of "seal through rotation".

IMHO, these seals would be a lot more desirable than putting any kind of film, rubber tubing, or fire hose over a nearly-perfectly functioning and decent-looking extruded galley lid hinge, would be easier, and sure wouldn't involve mucking up an otherwise great-looking exterior. Other's opinions and experiences will invariably differ, but I hope these trials offer some hope for those needing/wanting to use their teardrop gallies in the rain. As always ...

CHEERS!

Posted: **Sat Nov 16, 2013 1:51 am**

another type of hinge is called a continuous geared hinge
here is a google images tour. just go to google.com and paste in " continuous geared hinge" go to images and see what is claimed by some TD mfg's as leak proof. However I think one would need end plugs too.

On the box kite I put a pc of slip proof tape it was put on in 2007 and has not cracked yet. I hear several other have it on theirs too.

Ron

Posted: **Sat Nov 16, 2013 7:44 am**

I have contemplated back and forth on hinge options also...probably go with this hinge..

Posted: **Thu Jul 24, 2014 12:41 am**

Hatch hinges found at the IRG

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If you think any of these is yours or like yours please expand below!!

Ron

Posted: **Tue Jul 29, 2014 1:19 pm**

oakinteriors1 wrote:I have contemplated back and forth on hinge options also...probably go with this hinge..

I'm interested in this hinge in that it doesn't have the 90 degree legs of a hurricane hinge. Do you have a source for it?

Posted: **Tue Jul 29, 2014 2:01 pm**

You can get that hinge from Teardrop fix it shop in Montana.

http://www.teardropparts.com/hardware-parts.html

Posted: **Sun Aug 17, 2014 5:48 pm**

I wanted to suggest my own idea for hatch design and thought I might as well put it here rather than starting a new thread.

My build is in the early stages but one thing I have never seen is a tear drop hatch built like a car's truck. For Example

The rain water easily falls into the gaps around the trunk and then into the rain channel harmlessly falling away. The rubber seal keeps the trunk nice and dry, normally never challenged by water anyway. I have considered trying to build a tear drop hatch this way. The channel would be waterproof with maybe fiberglass strips or such. I believe this would make a hurricane hinge unnecessary as well. However, as I have never seen any tear drop built this way in my research thus far, I wonder if there is a fatal flaw in this idea that I am not seeing.

Posted: **Sun Aug 17, 2014 8:22 pm**

capnTelescope is doing that on his CNC Build.

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