Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I am considering whether to have permanently fixed or adjustable shelves for the 27.5" tall cabinet at the foot of my bed, and the upper galley cabinets. I "think" I prefer adjustable shelves. However I wonder if adjustable shelves are likely to come loose from road travel and bumping?

Tools I might use to make the holes for adjustable shelves include:

1. KREG KMA3200 Shelf Pin Drilling Jig

2. rockler.com/bench-dog-shelf-pin-jig

3. JIG IT® Shelving Jig w/Self-Centering Bit Probably too pricy for my limited needs.

4. Or a home made jig


I'd appreciate your experience with fixed and/or adjustable shelves in a teardrop trailer. Which do you prefer? Why?

edited to add that 27.5" is anticipated height for the cabinet at the foot of the bed. This is the cabinet I am more likely to want adjustable shelves in. Not sure if I'll want 1 or 2 adjustable shelves inside it.

I started with just the standard cabin cabinets but found after a couple of camping trips that I needed more storage at night (shoes, clothing, etc.). I still had plenty of foot room after installing a fixed shelf about 5" below the cabinets (used Kreg jig and pocket screws to install). I can't imagine the need for an adjustable shelf here as there really isn't too much room (or need) to move up or down.



My headboard shelving is also fixed. The top shelf is set with Kreg jig pocket screws and the bottom shelf is a two piece slider that allows access to my electrical in the small bevel area below. I designed the locations for the top shelf to hold our duffel bags while traveling and the lower shelf holds pillows and bedding while traveling. The bottom shelf then holds phones, watches, glasses, etc. at night. Again, I can't see a need for making these adjustable.



The nice thing about the Kreg jig pocket screws is that they allow you to remove them easily and relocate your shelving if your needs change. Just a few small holes to patch.

You also have to consider your sidewall construction. Mine was easy since I used 3/4" ply for my walls. For those using sandwich construction with thinner wall coverings you would have to plan ahead for frame pieces to hold the shelf supports.

There are plastic shelf pins available that have a protruding spring that locks the shelf in place and keeps it from bouncing. We use them at the horse trailer conversion place where I work. I don't know if they are available at other RV outlets. I think they use a standard metric hole.

Best,
Tom

Hi Esteban,

We went with adjustable shelves using the flat pin method and really like them. That pin drilling jig would work very well for this. We made our own with a piece of 3/4" plywood and a drill press. The jig was aligned to the edge of the upright interior cabinet ply. Then we set the length of the bit to drill about halfway through both sides of the cabinet interior verticals. Then you drill (we used the drill press) 4 dado like half holes where the tabs are to fit. This keeps them from coming loose in transit. We have adjusted them a couple of times though now we think we have the right positions for the clothes we take camping.


This is how they look with their shelves.


Here is how the dado looks under the shelves.

I hope this helps,

Dave

Dave, Thanks for your reply and photos. They're very helpful.

I have not built my cabinets yet nor camped in the teardrop. So I don't know what the best shelf spacing, for clothing, bedding, etc. I'll want/need. Thus I like the idea of adjustable shelves if they stay in place while traveling. My TD will be used almost exclusively on paved roads.The shelves I have planned will be wider than the opening in the face frame. So the face frame should keep the shelves from falling out (forward). A dado/indentation in the shelf for the pins to rest on would help too. Thanks for your close up photo of that detail, Dave.

My over the foot of the bed cabinet (my current plans) will have three side by side compartments each about 27.5" high inside, about 19-20" wide, and about 17" deep. With that much height I "think" two adjustable shelves could be handier and more efficient than one permanent shelf about midway (about 12-15") up inside the cabinet.

I'm thinking of the three compartments as his, hers, and a middle one for shared things like bedding.

In the Tiny Yellow Teardrop blog I read a hint that it is more efficient to store plates flat on shallow shelves. So I may use adjustable shelves in my upper galley cabinet, too.

Get some adjustable shelf supports like this http://www.wwhardware.com/l-shaped-shel ... holes-g111 (1/4" holes) or http://www.wwhardware.com/l-shaped-shel ... holes-g707 (5 mm holes) The hole in the lip allows you to put in a washer-head screw. Fastened this way, they won't go anywhere until you're ready to adjust them. I see new furniture shipped from China with the shelves installed this way and no slippage.

Esteban wrote:My over the foot of the bed cabinet (my current plans) will have three side by side compartments each about 27.5" high inside, about 19-20" wide, and about 17" deep. With that much height I "think" two adjustable shelves could be handier and more efficient than one permanent shelf about midway (about 12-15") up inside the cabinet.

I'm thinking of the three compartments as his, hers, and a middle one for shared things like bedding.

In the Tiny Yellow Teardrop blog I read a hint that it is more efficient to store plates flat on shallow shelves. So I may use adjustable shelves in my upper galley cabinet, too.

Hi Steve,

Here's a link to my build thread with my cabinet layouts. http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=35081&start=255


The aft / over the feet ones are the ones with the adjustable shelves. My cabinets are inset without face frames accept for these over the feet ones. They have a frame on the outer edge for the hinges and to clear the coat hangers.

All the Best,

Dave

Thanks to everyone who posted your ideas, links, and photos. They all are helping me with my plans. I've added the pins Vijay suggests to my favorites for a future purchase.