Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi all,

I just finished rehabbing the axle under my Cabin Car project.
While I realize that a lot of you are building with new axles/frames, those that are rebuilding an older tear might be interested in the page I put together (lots of pictures).

Click here to see.

Rob

Dear Rob,
I am so happy you are around now. Glad I emailed you. I am about to face this exact problem and had no idea about how to tackle it. Thank you for you post.

Here ia picture of the pop-up frame I will be using on my tear. which will be the same size as yours.




I was going to use electrolysis to remove the frame rust, or would you recvommend sandblasting. I do not own the sandblasting equipment, so could you suggest a starting point for equipment.

Hello Guy,

You're welcome!

If you don't have the equipment, you'll be money ahead in the long run if you can find someone local to do the blasting for you.
It is usually pretty inexpensive when measured against the hours it will take you X your hourly rate of pay.
I know, rebuilding things is fun, but rust removal isn't.
Better to spend your time working on other aspects of the tear.

If you insist, use a wire wheel on an angle grinder.
This is very dusty work, so a GOOD respirator (not a disposable face mask) is important. The wheel will get most of it, and the rest will need to be done with hand tools.
Electrolysis is not a bad option, but would sure require a large tank, though you could make a temporary tank with some wood framing and plastic sheeting.

How you get the rust off isn't so important as just getting it off.

Looks like a good frame to start with!



Rob

Guy-

Rob's right, take the thing to a media blaster! It's a messy job and not the best on your health!

Pro's use oxygen supplying respirator hoods and full suits.

As a point of reference my 6' x 10' trailer frame (along with wheel rims, etc.) cost $100 to blast here in good ole' central PA.

Most blasters will blast only, you will have to prime the frame immediately after blasting or surface rust will rear it's ugly head in no time flat...

Cheers,

Coop

Guy - This is the first post that I have made. I have been lerking for awhile and have just started my TD about 3 weeks ago. I will post pictues later but I have completeded my 2"X3" tubular frame. I have elected to use POR 15 for my frame treatment. I am using new steel, but the POR 15 literature indicates that it can be used to "control" old rust. I used their "Marine Clean" last night and "Metal Ready" this morning to etch the metal. I had planned to wash these products off in my driveway, but the temperature only allowed the water in my hose to stay in a "solid" format, so I had to pull the trailer frame to the car wash to get the products rinsed off. I plan to use the POR 15 and "Chasis Coat on Thanksgiving Day when I have time to follow their rigorous time restrictions. Their website indicates that they can control existing rust. Rust Bullet also looks good, but I decided that I wanted a black frame and it looked like Rust Bullet came only in Metallic Grey. Thanks for all of the help from everyone and especially Madjack!
Guy- I enjoy the "EGA". My son,Matt, is at Camp Pendleton and will be done and home in April or May. He has been in the Midlle East twice. It is my hope that he will be back in time to help with the completition of my 5 x 10.

c_mac...I am sure proud you have come outta the lurker closet...it gets cold, dark and lonely in there sometimes ...you by now that we luv da pics, so we are waiting....your welcome, dunno what for exactly but your welcome anyway
madjack

p.s....and by the way, tell your Matt...THANK YOU.....

Thank you All,

C_Mac, if you right click on the EGA you can copy it to your hard drive and send it to your Marine/ or use it yourself-Dad's count!

Rob, I was going to build a frame and use some tarps I got from Costco with the soda. I fouund a link on the internet to someone who had done this to a frame. The only concern I have with sandblasting if whether I can get inside the square tubing with it. I know if I do it by electrolysis I can stick a little metal inside(without touching anything) and get the inside of the tube.

Guy,

Good thinking!

Rob

Here is the link to the electrolysis of a trailer frame I wrote about above.

http://antique-engines.com/trailer-electrolysis.htm

Please check it out and see if there is anything that should be corrected.

Guy,

Very interesting and informative.

The only question or concern would be how to prevent flash rusting.

For example, when an item is sandblasted, the moment the surface is exposed to the air, the piece begins to corrode.
The moisture in the air does the dirty deed.
Your frame will be rust free, but the moment you remove it from the water bath, oxygen will begin the corrosion process again.


When I sandblast pieces, unless the humidity is high, I don't notice any rust forming (usually an hour or so before painting) and have not had paint failure due to it.
There have been times I've left a piece in the open air overnight, in humid conditions, and have had to lightly blast the piece again before painting.

In my case, the pieces can be painted immediately, for a big frame just pulled from a tank, it might be a day or so before all the nooks and cranny's are dry?


Perhaps this is splitting hairs, and is not a real concern, anyone else want to offer an opinion? (I'm really curious now!)

Rob

This comment comes from knowledge about painting ships, but may be as relevant to painting smaller things.

Paint manufacturers really don't want to publicise the truth, that a 'rust-bloomed' surface, not a freshly blasted surface, actually offers the best paint adhesion. This is where you can see a slight rust-coloured tint to the surface, but not actual pitting or spots.

The problem is that they know that many users would take this as permission to paint anything rusty, through to rust flakes dropping off. So they just say it must be spotless.

Andrew

Andrew,

Thanks for your thoughts!

I suppose in painting a ship, it would be tough to have a perfect surface.

I know that I've painted less than perfect surfaces, and ended up with a pretty nice job, so maybe it really isn't minor rust that creates the problem, but moisture.

Rob

If you powdercoat it the tech automatically Sand blasts it. Powder coating is cheap and lasts forever ,unless you somehow scratch it with a hard tool.