Kayak Rack

[Danidog]

I want to add a kayak rack to the top of my TTT. My side walls are 3/4" ply, the roof, front and back are 1/2" ply and I have 2 x 2 spars at every angle in the roof. Is there any reason I couldn't/shouldn't just use two 2 x 3's over top two of the spars for a simple and inexpensive rack to haul a 46 lb. kayak?

Pic of profile

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thanks,

[Shoprat]

I mounted mine to the 3/4" ply sides with 3/16" steel plates welded to some 1" round pipe and it supports my 75# 14' long Jackson kayak just fine. Could maybe even fit a second one up there.

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[noseoil]

Two 2X3's should work fine with the way you built things. It sounds good & strong. You could also go to a slightly bigger stock (2x4 maybe?) and cut a profile to let the kayak rest and "nest" in a small depression in the top edge. A little carpet for a liner for wear, a couple of eye bolts run up from the bottom of the 2X (counter-bore the nuts & washers from the bottom side), to straddle the hull & you're good to go. If you wanted to get fancy, some spar varnish to completely seal the wood first, a nice sanding, and it would look really nice once it's installed. With a bungie cord or two it would be fine for a short trip, but something a little bit more positive might be better to hold it in place on longer trips. Can you place the 2X's for a good attachment on the spars below? tim

[Danidog]

Thanks for the input guys.
Shoprat, that would definitely work, but I'm over-budget with the build and didn't want to pay for welding if I could get by some other way. I am welding challenged..., .

Noseoil, Yes, I have double spars at both of the roof angles and another just behind the windows. I have enough access that I could go down through two spars if I need to, I just have to be careful how I do that to keep water from leaching into the wood. If I can solve that, maybe through bolts all the way?

[noseoil]

If you're going to leave it there permanently, pre-finish the 2 rack parts however you need to (paint, varnish, urethane, etc). When the holes are drilled through the roof, treat the inside surfaces & edges with epoxy or urethane first (rack & roof parts, both), to let them soak up some finish and harden in the end grain. Then you can bed the parts in butyl rubber tape, or even canvas & paint if the fit is good. It won't cost too much & will be there for good if it is done properly. http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=19986

[Danidog]

Tim,
Thanks for the link to the tape, I'll order a roll tomorrow.

I'll proceed as you described, appreciate the help!

Dan