Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi all, I think I'm ready to install the aluminum. So I guess that is my first question - all the components except tongue box are done. Holes filled on exterior. Take a peek at build journal to see where Im at if that will help.
2nd question is about width. Have 4x12 sheet for roof. My TD is sitting on 4x8 floor. 3/4 wall on outside of that.about 1/4 inch overhangs trailer. So the distance between sides is a tad under 4 ft at top. My trim molding should catch it by about 3/8 Inch on both sides. Is that enough? Will have butyl tape under trim. I really want to run the piece front to back if it will work that way.
Thanks for any input in advance

Danny, It is 49 1/2 outside wall to outside wall. My trim overlaps the 3/4 plywood wall about 3/8 onto roof.
I saw this coming when I got my floor out to build TD, floor was built last summer with a different plan that I abandoned. Figured I deal with it when time came, now it's time. any ideas anyone?
I have some flat thin narrow (1/2 inch wide?)aluminum that I could run on top of aluminum skin and under the trim. Just a thought. Asking for a leak?

Kim,

You also need to account for the thickness of whatever exterior wall coverings you will use, as they will push your trim further out also.

Using putty tape is a very good idea.
Using strips of material to cover a gap is not.
You will be much better off to run the aluminum crossways and have a couple overlapping seams than trying to patch something together.

Rob

... and don't forget that the sheet(s) will most likely wander a little as it (they) is (are) wrapped from front to back. Seems to be a common thing.

48Rob wrote:Kim,

You will be much better off to run the aluminum crossways and have a couple overlapping seams than trying to patch something together.

Rob

:D Danny

Thanks everyone. Looks like I should run widthwise make a seam. I am using butyl tape under trim. I did first coat of poly/mineral spirits yesterday 50/50. I have silicone indoor outdoor caulk i was thinking of putting along the area where the luan and wall meet. In some areas it is tight other areas there is a very small gap of no more than 1/16. my husband is great at caulking so im sure he would not leave any globs or bumps. Also thinking of using thin material and tightbond II to cover the edge. Any input appreciated. Taking keeping water out seriosly. Its worth time and effort to make TD last!

Sounds like a good plan on seams. I have the 4x12 aluminum already. Going to look for areas to seal up and get that done for now. Thanks again!
Kim

Does anybody know anywhere that has and will ship 5x10 anodized (not mill finish)?

Javajaws- I dont know where to get any other aluminum. I got mine at cost before my brother sold his sign business. Even then I think I could only get mill finish or it may have been to costly for me so I got painted.You may check a sign shop in your area.
So the tinkering around with the roof aluminum continues. We looked at our teardrop and the breaks/seams (if ran side ways) would end up on a curvy part no matter how we do it. Or One can go on the flat area. None of the options look like a good place to have a seam. So we laid it longways and it lays right at 3/4 from the wall all the way down both sides except in one place. The trim would only hold 1/4 inch on each side of the aluminum. In the one spot about 1/8 under. So we continue to look and think Looked for wider trim. Ours is 1 1/8 insert type.It only lays about an inch onto roof. Considered a new 5x10 piece of aluminum. Anyone want to put in two cents? Am I worrying about where those seams end up too much?
I sealed the top with silicone where the roof and wall meet. Then we did a cloth and tightbond II over the corner. The walls and roof have the 50/50 poly/mineral spirits mix on them. So that is done and feel better that it is water resistant under the skin. But I really don't water to get that far.
Thanks in advance!
Kim
Here are some pics of the mess! It is all temporary, except the silicone and canvas anyway...

Javajaws- I dont know where to get any other aluminum. I got mine at cost before my brother sold his sign business. Even then I think I could only get mill finish or it may have been to costly for me so I got painted.You may check a sign shop in your area.
So the tinkering around with the roof aluminum continues. We looked at our teardrop and the breaks/seams (if ran side ways) would end up on a curvy part no matter how we do it. Or One can go on the flat area. None of the options look like a good place to have a seam. So we laid it longways and it lays right at 3/4 from the wall all the way down both sides except in one place. The trim would only hold 1/4 inch on each side of the aluminum. In the one spot about 1/8 under. So we continue to look and think Looked for wider trim. Ours is 1 1/8 insert type.It only lays about an inch onto roof. Considered a new 5x10 piece of aluminum. Anyone want to put in two cents? Am I worrying about where those seams end up too much?
I sealed the top with silicone where the roof and wall meet. Then we did a cloth and tightbond II over the corner. The walls and roof have the 50/50 poly/mineral spirits mix on them. So that is done and feel better that it will be water resistant under the skin. But I really don't water to get that far!
Thanks in advance!
Kim
Here are some pics of the mess! It is all temporarily in place, except the silicone and canvas anyway...
glued canvas shows wall side
silicone in the one wide gap before canvas is on
trim over alum laying in place

silicone is in crack like this everywhere else
canvas over top edge with aluminum laying in place

I am going to see if the hubby will help me put the aluminum the other way and take pics of where the seams would end up across the top. meanwhile feel free to send links of 5 wide material in MO LOL

We have finally found a source for 5 feet wide aluminum at Mid West Sheet Metal in Springfield, MO. Hope this helps!

And the cost at Midwest was good too. Nice People