Tiny Travel Trailer build from skacutter

[skacutter]

I am building a tiny travel trailer that started out as a teardrop design on steroids. You can visit my build site at http://www.kasperwing.com/teardrop.htm

I am open to any and all comments, suggestions, tips, tricks or whatever you would like to comment on.



Thanks
Chris

[Spadinator]

Interesting build. I like the interior wood work.

[Loader]

Chris,

Welcome to the group! what a build, what a concept. Very Cool!


Look forward to seeing the final photos of your build, you have put a lot of thought into it, and it looks like you have all the comforts of home built in.

Home many will it sleep? 2 - 4?

Earl

"Loader"

[skacutter]

Hi Earl: Thank you for the comments. My project should sleep 2 in the front sleeper and I am thinking up a hamock type arrangment in the kitchen area. For now the unit will sleep just me when I want to drag my ultralight aircraft out of town to go flying. I am really enjoying the T&TTT website. I only wish I knew of this at the project start. so many questions that I just had to figure out on my own. Oh well this is how I learn

Kind Regards
Chris

[madjack]

...interesting design there ska, I am glad ya found us...we are all ways looking for new design ideas and pics...we love de pics...so welcome aboard and any questions ya got, we got answers(maybe)
madjack

[Hardin Valley Magic]

ska, I gotta say thats a snazzy camper. And a nice diary of the build, I gotta say there Jack he has definently got the pic. taken part down quite well.

[skacutter]

I am shocked how quickly I received a response on this website and this is exactly what I have been looking for. OK… Here are my current questions/concerns about my project.

1- Stability on the road. The wheelbase is 2ft shorter then the width of the trailer. The bed is 8x10ft the height is around 8.5ft-9ft. Do you think the trailer could tip around bends (exit ramps and such)???
2- Liquid Nails construction technique and siding issues- My project is all “glue it & screw it” I use the construction grade for structure sections, the paneling grade for interior panels, construction grade in the 1 gallon can for the aluminum siding. Anyone else use this stuff for aluminum siding adhesive? It seemed like a good idea at the time but I already have side panel separation. Comments?
3- Sewer tanks- can you drill a hole in the side of a standard ABS tank or must all drain pipes come from the top? My shower stall drain vents under the floor so I have to pipe it in the side of the tank as high up as possible

Thanks for looking and helping. Again this website is a killer find. I tried to join the teardrop webring and I follow all the steps but never get a response 

Cutter

[critter]

cool job,
cutter i likes whut u done.

[Feral XJ-SC]

Wow, that was a lot of hard work! Thank you for sharing.

[madjack]

1)...stability, as wide as you are and keeping all heavy items down low(ie.water, propane, batteries, etc) you shouldn't have a problem...just don't go driving the Dragon at 90 and take it esay until you have a feel for it...your biggest problem will probably be wind resistance...even wiith the curves you are pretty tall

2)...try using a polyurethane grade contruction adhesive such as PL or SikaFlex (or others)...of late, an adhesive by the name of Henry's 663 Outdoor Carpet Adhesive(or similar product) has come into favor among many here on the board for attaching Al skins...it is trowel grade, waterproof, stays flexible, has a long enough working time and is fairly easy to work with

3)...ABS tanks have fitting available that can be directly glued in place...if you cannot run the shower drain directly into the top of the tank, set up the drain to the tank like a "p" trap...with the drain going directly into a 90deg bend, and another turned straight up and another going into the very top(side) of the tank...

4)...any other questions???????
madjack

[skacutter]

none right now but I am sure there will be more to come.

Thanks Again
Chris

[madjack]

Chris...if you do have stability problems, you may have to go with a "Y" or "A" frame tongue and stabilizer bars on the hitch, this will eliminate much sway and help out with any "tipping" problems...the one thing that I could not get a good handle on was the tongue...you have a lotta weight up there and I couldn't really tell much about the tongue set-up
madjack

[skacutter]

madjack: Currently there is no tongue on the trailer. The original tongue was 2x2 box steel tube that bent up 3 inches causing the trailer to tow in a nose down position. I purchased 20ft of 2x2 box steel tube and plan on making an "A" frame type tongue about 7ft long. the 2 angle sections will be welded directly to the main rails of the trailer frame.

Regards
Chris

[cracker39]

Hi Chris...very interesting and different design. You have a lot of room inside for a TTT...I'm jealous. Got a couple of questions. Does your door have a screen door and where did you order it from? I found a 28" x 69" in Tampa at Redneck trailer, with combined screen door, but it's over $300. Second, from your diagrams, it looks like you are using Visio...is that right? I have an old version that I have been using for years. It's great for line drawings.

[skacutter]

cracker39: Hey I have a greate contact for you. there is a guy in CA selling 22" wide by 69" tall (NEW) RV door with screen door, polar wt for $220 delivered!!! every other place I try the shipping alone is 250. Here is the website for this place


http://www.callencamper.com/

regards
Chris