Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

As I wondered thru Home Depot pricin' stuff. I was lookin' at the 2-part Epoxy floor kits by Rust-olem. Has anyone thought about or used this on wood. If it seals and waterproofs concrete would it do wood? A single car garage is around $60 bucks. The only colors I found was light and dark grey. I also found a 1-part epoxy by Rust-olem at Lowes for around $25 a gal in white. Any thoughts or experiance with this? Thanks Weasel.

I used rot-doc at 100/gallon.. would also like to hear about alternatives that are just as sturdy, but local and cost less...... I still think a cpes is a good base... use that, and it will make the tear a solid block......

I'd like to hear about alternatives that are easier to keep clean than Uniflex 255.

I do agree with Arne, the CPES undercoating is what protects your teardrop from the elements. But then I would think you need a top coating that'll adhere to the CPES. Also it's been mentioned that Epoxy Paint is not porus like regular house paint.

Mike...

I just completed my undercoat....I used pressure treated plywood, treated with Thompson's, then lightly sanded. Applied 3M rubberized undercoating to that (several coats). Prior, I tested a small area and found the 3M bonded quite well to the pre-treated plywood. I hope this will be adequate for water proofing the bottom and will last for some time. The floor structure will rest on the frame (with a bead of silicon).

Now that I read this, am I not sure about my undercoating method...Anyone have any advise or experience? Thanks, Joe

Mike on uniflex, I found tipping/dragging it with a foam brush makes a much smoother surface that is nicer and stays cleaner longer (almost like sprayed on).... a bristle brush doesn't work well, leaves streaks, but foam is great.... I used it last time on my addition and will be using it in the future.... I also cut a 9" roller in half and the shorter roller is much easier to work with.... I'd do about 2 sq. ft. at a time, then use the foam brush and it came out a lot better.

OK, I'm still waiting on my axle, but I do have my profile built up and getting ready to put the floor together. Been looking around to figure out what to use to coat the bottom. I first thought about the liquid truck bed coating, you can get from autozone. Then I kicked around the idea of spray under coating. But I'm open for all ideas. Also considered several coats of paint.

Joe,

Worry isn't a good thing...gets in the way of having fun!

I don't claim to be an expert, but I have learned a few things in my career of repairing and building trailers...

First, wood does not instantly rot and fall apart if it gets wet.

Wood can get wet many times and not go bad...IF it can dry quickly.
I've come across many (untreated) wood floored trailers that after many years are still like new.

The biggest enemy is cracks and recesses that can hold mud, etc.
Once water has found a way to lay against wood for an extended period, the trouble begins.

One practice that is of concern is to lay out/build a wood frame over the steel frame, then undercoat after completion.
The areas that receive the treatment are fine, but what of the unreachable area between the wood and steel...moisture can get in there...and will stay...

The theory of using a bed liner type material for undercoating a tear is good, but, the protection is only good as long as there are NO breaks in the applied material.

Once there is a chip, crack, etc, moisture can, and will get "under the skin".

The problem is that because the material is so tough and strong, you don't realize moisture is rotting the wood until it is too late (unless you frequently inspect the surface).
Granted, wood doesn't, under normal circumstances, rot away overnight.
It is a process that occurs over several years, so it is wise to inspect regularly.

My approach to this problem has been to have a backup plan...

I seal all exposed wood with several layers of oil based paint, the first coat thinned for deep penetration.
THEN apply the undercoat, bed liner, or whatever finished surface.

Asphalt and rubber based under coatings can (and often do) develop cracks, leaving untreated wood exposed.

Keeping cracks that can collect dirt and debris to a minimum is also important, such as areas where the wood and steel meet.
Sure doesn't hurt to inspect the underside once a year, and if needed, rinse off the dirt, etc so the wood can dry quickly.

The treatment you described for your project sounds good, I wouldn't worry.



Rob

I have a friend in HVAC, he lettin' me have 4x8 sheets out metal used for ducts at $20 a sheet. I'm screwin' them on top of the trailer frame. That will seal the bottom. I'm started the frame after Christmas. So the body will be in Jan. and hopefully done by Mar. Unless I'm told it won't work I'll try the Rust-olem kit. I'll hand pick my plywood out and try to get the best they have. I agree with what was said ply don't rot over night so mines gonna be covered when not in use, and in the winter.

Weasel,

Installing an underbelly is a time proven method of protecting the floor.

That said, the belly will only be as good as its installation and upkeep.

I've not seen many between the floor and frame, most are at the bottom of the frame, to allow for insulation, but as long as all seams and protrusions are well sealed, it should last a long time.
I'd be sure to put a good sealer between the two metals, to prevent moisture from accumulating.

This picture shows what can happen if moisture finds a way in between the belly and floor.

The frame was ruined because water seeped into the cavity where the tongue frame met the aluminum skin...the gap was not sealed.



A closer look...


There is much to be said for storing a trailer in a (dry) building.

Rob

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I feel better now and will try not to worry too much! My wife tells me to loosen up a little too.

A couple points...my undercoating is applied across the whole surface of the belly. I plan to store my tear in the garage and inspect regularly. When I bolt the floor structure to the chassis, I will use a bead of silicon between all members of the chassis and the belly...should flatten out and fill any gaps where mud and moisture holding material can collect.

Sound good? Joe

Hi Joe,

Yes, it sounds pretty good, but I'd like to make you aware that Silicone may not be the best choice for this application.

I'm a big fan of silicone... good silicone, NOT siliconized acrylic.
I've used it for many years, and have not had a failure.
When the mating surfaces are properly cleaned, and the product is applied according to specs, it is hard to beat.

However, that said, the standard silicone available at home centers is acidic, and can eat into/through steel.

A better choice for metal to wood with the intention of sealing/filling, as opposed to glueing, would be a good polyurethane sealer (though it makes a pretty tough glue too).

If you really want to use silicone, you can buy the non acidic variety from a marine supply store.

Rob

Rob, I'm goin' on top of the frame like Frank did his. Should I seal the or treat the bottom of the wood? And what do you suggest?

Weasel,

Who is Frank? Does he have pictures of the belly installed? (sorry, some days I'm a little slow...)

If the wood will be completely protected by the sheet metal, there shouldn't be any need to add further protection...BUT since I'm a skeptic...were it mine I'd seal the plywood with a few coats of oil based paint, the first coat or two thinned so it will penetrate, and seal all seams, edges, and protrusions well.

Another VERY important step (IMHO) is to seal all screw holes.
That is, after installing the screws in the belly, siding, roof, wherever, I remove them a few at a time and inject a small amount of sealer.
This seals up and makes waterproof the screw hole, and around the screw head.

While the thought of an underbelly as a way to waterproof the floor of a trailer might at first seem attractive, if not done very precisely, and maintained annually, it can lead to much damage that won't be discovered until it is too late...

A belly is great to hold insulation, or to protect the floor if you'll be driving on gravel roads, through the mud, or in generally nasty weather (like Ice and snow).

If you just take an occassional trip in decent weather, the soaking the floor will get from the vacation induced rain storm will dry very quickly without a belly to hide behind.

Rob

I was thinking about doing mine with a Acrylic polymer resin paint (boat paint). and then going over it with the bed liner. watcha think?

Rob, Frank is buildin' a weekender. Go to the weekender page in Gen Disscussion on pg 5. His web pic page show his. I think I'll use poly or paint on the bottom just in case water does get between. Maybe drill a couple drain holes.