Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Okay, so it's time to skin the hatch and install the hurricane hinge.
Problem, the top of the hatch isn't 90 degrees, but the hurricane hinge is.

So, how do you bend it so that it fits and doesn't end up looking like it was done by a monkey?

Is it an aesthetic issue or a clearance problem?

If not a clearance issue, I would not try to trim or reform it. Instead I would scab on some short blocks to either side of each rib (or just one side on the outside spars, butting under the hinge. That way the flange can be face screwed into the blocks and they will add stability to the hinge.

Extruded aluminum is not soft and will not want to bend easily, I expect.

It's definitely a clearance issue. There is no gap between the bulkhead on the trailer and the header on the hatch.

How about trimming the ribs and hatch hinge spar back square enough (about flush with that side trim in the foreground) and adding a beveled spar (or filler strip) along the rear edge of the bulkhead to make up the difference (also squaring up the cabin side of the hinge, which I assume will also be a problem)? Just relocate the hinge enough.

MarcInBoise wrote:It's definitely a clearance issue. There is no gap between the bulkhead on the trailer and the header on the hatch.

Can you cut 3/8" off the top of the hatch and add a triangular piece to square it up?

You could use a circular saw fence like this one to trim your hatch back:

If that doesn't fix it, you might consider going with a piano hinge with a rubber seal over it. It's not an uncommon hatch hinge system.

T

tony.latham wrote:

MarcInBoise wrote:It's definitely a clearance issue. There is no gap between the bulkhead on the trailer and the header on the hatch.

Can you cut 3/8" off the top of the hatch and add a triangular piece to square it up?

You could use a circular saw fence like this one to trim your hatch back:

If that doesn't fix it, you might consider going with a piano hinge with a rubber seal over it. It's not an uncommon hatch hinge system.

T

hmm... I'll have to consider the trimming the hatch and squaring it up.
Would it be strong enough?

Seeing how you built the hatch before locating the hinge and then not building your hatch on the tear you now need to forget about the hurricane hinge and install a piano hinge like Tony suggest. The only other way would be to remove the hinge header board of the hatch and start over with a new board. This time locate the complete hinge to the tear and then repair the hatch in place. What does the hinge half to the tear look like? I'll bet you also didn't allow a 1/4" gap between the hatch and side walls.

Notice the pic below. That's the way your suppose to do it. Notice the hinge.

Would it be strong enough?

I can't say without knowing how it's built.

T

So tell us Marc, what did you decide?

Gage wrote:So tell us Marc, what did you decide?

Piano hinge.

Not too happy about it, but I think it's the best option at this point, so I don't have to butcher my hatch.
Guess I'll save the hurricane hinge for my next build.

Not too happy about it,

My first 'drop used a piano hinge with a rubber gasket over the top. It was commercially built by Hunter. Never leaked. Worked fine. Good times in that little 4-wide. They were built in north Idaho. I think Lil Guy bought them out.

Tony

Well I've got a Piano hinge on my tear (built in 2002, before hurricane hinge) Picked up a 2" rubber garage door skirt from Home Depot that's between the hinge and the tear & hatch. It had a small lip along one edge that I butted against the hinge half common to the main body and once the hatch and hinge was located and screwed in place, took a knife and trimmed it to the hatch hinge half. No leak and I've been in some heavy rain with it.