Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I've built the hatch, it's not skinned but screwed on as a dry fit. My question is, how much overlap at the bottom where it meets the rear floor? I cut it flush with the floor but after studying the situation, feel an overlap is needed for a good seal. If I have to, I can rip off the luan and glue another piece on with an overlap and I've got it. Or, I can glue a second sheet of luan making 1/2 inch which adds much to the weight...Probably the best thing is to start over keeping the weight to a minum huh? Thanks

No need to rebuild that hatch. Simply screw a 1/8 x 1 1/2" strip of aluminum to the bottom of your hatch. Not only will you cover that gap, you will also have a nice drip edge to divert water away from your galley floor.



As you can see, I had to relieve mine a bit to accomodate the hatch handle. Be sure to use plenty of caulk. Finally, I put a thick weather strip right up against the drip edge along the botom of the hatch.

I did the same thing only I used t-molding instead of a flat strip.
Bruce

Thanks for he quick replies. I will go with your idea of an aluminum strip. It will bemuch, much esier than my final idea last night of cutting about 6 inches off the bottom of the hatch and putting another piece of luan on. Many thanks!

Like Tom mentions....I used a strip of aluminum in that area...but I did leave some ply behind it when I built it....a rod locking system like on a truck topper will allow you to place the handle further up the hatch, so you won't have to relieve the area where the handle and the aluminum strip meet....Doug

TomS, is that a 1/2" strip overhang on your hatch? Thanks, John

John6012 wrote:TomS, is that a 1/2" strip overhang on your hatch? Thanks, John

The aluminum strip is 1 1/2 inches wide. I have 1/2 inch on the hatch, just enough to hold the screws. The remaining width, about an inch extends beyond the end of the hatch.

Thanks Tom for the reply. I'll use your idea on the hatch. Regards, John