Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I am almost ready to build some windows for my tear. At least one in each side door and possibly a couple small round ones in the rear of the cabin. I saw a video of an English Chap who had a couple round windows, Wiley style. I didn't understand where the water might go when it hits the glass as the outside of his tear didn't seem to have any weeping holes. Here's his video...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ft75_VwSqvs

The basic Wiley design appears to be simple. Does anyone have any ideas about the round Wiley and how it sheds water?

Grant's full build thread is here: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=56093

I skimmed thru but didn't see anything straight off. Why don't you post a question there, or on the youtube page and see if you can't roust him up?

Haven't heard from him around here for some time and it would be nice to get an update from him.

(I'll cross link this post on his.)

Thanks KC... I have played around with Wiley window shapes and round remains my favorite shape. I'm sure I could epoxy seal behind the frame well and provide a weeping point. It would just be a high maintenance area as crap (bugs, leaves, pollen, road grime) would build up in there if it is not cleaned out regularly.

On several posts I have read suggestions that the Wiley should be set lower in the door/cabin to allow for wedge removal. I understand the cabin location, but, is the door suggestion just so you wouldn't have to open the door to remove the wedges? I don't see this as a problem even in a hard rain, plus, most situations I will have a screen house over the entire tear so rain won't be an issue (I hope!).

The Wiley window gives you three options: closed, ajar and full open when the pane is removed. I think the issue is having enough head space to remove the pane when the door is closed.

Another rationale is that some people like to have the window and vent down closer to the mattress for a better draft effect. If the windows are high up and the air flows out the roof vent you don't get as much air movement down at the mattress. Maybe.

I have wiley windows in Conch Fritter. Two are in the shape of a large scallop shell and the other two are kind of like clouds. Just returned from a 2,800 mile trip with some serious, heavy storms, massive wind and down pours. Not a single drop leaked in. I even tried running for a while in a storm in Virginia with one of the door scallops in the open position to see about water intrusion, nothing. My plexi panels run about an inch higher than the height of the cut out, so even in the open position they are above the opening. With both of mine, because I have the luxury of interior camper width, I made the top opening about 6", bottom pan about 1".

Biggest thing is to make sure they are fully sealed after mounting. I built mine, first sealed with the "mix" - 50:50 polyurethane spar varnish:mineral spirits. Mounted to the doors and walls. I then sealed with 3 coats of epoxy. Then 2 finish coats of poly full strength for UV. On mine I have the base angles all in a slight downward slope so I only need one exit point for moisture. Screens were then applied to the inside of the window frame, so they work whether window is open, tilted or removed. On the door, I have a large amount of headroom, but even at that you can make it so the glass/plexi can be easily removed.

Rear window when I first installed, closed position



Open position. I haven't installed the triangular holders in these photos. I did make the designs different on door and wall designs. On walls, I made slide in slots for the triangles. On door I made a cross member, so I can install a 10" O-2 12v fan



Here is an early shot of the windows from the outside, before the trim and finishes were applied, but gives you an idea. You can make these look any way you want and the design is hundreds, if not thousands of years old.



dave

Dave, thanks for the description. Your photos and description give me exactly what I was looking for. I guess if I set the bottom of the glass right at the bottom of the round cut out and slope it toward that point I shouldn't have any problem. You sealed with epoxy, then poly? Does the poly do the UV protection thing on the epoxy?

Yes, the spar varnish creates the UV protection on the epoxy. You'll notice at the bottom of the window the base angle is about 30 degrees and not flat. I glued up the components then glued/screwed to my walls using TB2 glue. I had a single weep hole drilled at the very base of all designs, which actually just looks like part of the design and was the starting point for my wall cutout. The top of the window base plate was aligned to be about 1/16" above this drainage point. The window base piece was cut to have a slight down angle from the outside to the center for drainage.

Once glue was set, I then came back and laid on 3 layers of epoxy resin, no cloth. The wall cut out was also coated with three layers and the transition from window frame-drainage-wall exterior was poured to be a gradual slope outward. I then put on the poly. Oh, I had prestained the wood before I did any attachment.

dave

Has anyone double paneled the wiley's window with the outside panel have a cut out with a screen. Or taken the panels out and inserted a evaporator pad to make a swamp cooler in conjunction with the roof fan.

We installed screening directly to the walls inside the wiley window area. Attached with small amounts of hot glue. This allows us to remove easily when wanted, but they hold in place so they are kind of a permanent but removable element. The plexi then goes right up against them when closed. They worked perfectly with this. Oh, and on the top area we added a small piece of finishing trim just to not have a screen edge showing. Can't use a swamp cooler (florida) so can't say on that one.

dave