Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

My wall framing is done and I'm ready for wiring. My thoughts are to run the wiring for the sidewall lighting accessories under a crown molding inside the cabin. This way if I need to get at the wiring to modify or repair I won't need to take out a wall. I will only need to drop the wires inside the walls for about six to twelve inches to bring them into position for their intended fixture. My diagram calls for a porch light with an internal switch, a cabin reading light, and a running light on each wall.
Has anyone done this? Any sugestions on a molding that can be used like a flexible raceway. My roof line pitch isn't to great here, but I'll still need something that can flex in a slope of about 1 inch for every six inches.

Hey John,
If you are planning on having a 12v system, you should be able to create molding very simply on a table saw. Start out with 3/4" x 3/8" x ? length and dado out a section 5/16" x 3/8" as a raceway for your wiring. This will get attached to the ceiling and NOT to the walls.



When I build and install cabinets with 12v lighting, I create and use this type of molding to conceal the wires. It should be flexible enough to make the radius bend of your trailer.
They do make Flexible Moldings, but they can get pretty pricey.

This is one way to do it and I am sure others will throw in their two cents.
Ross

Ross, neat trick.... probably a bit tedious to get the wire to behave while you put the molding up, but a great solution.... wish I'd thought of it/g/..

The radius corner moulding is dado'd inside to house seven electrical wires. I did this in several places to hide them. In the cabin it's easy if you run them along the floor since the mattress will hide the molding.

arnereil wrote:Ross, neat trick.... probably a bit tedious to get the wire to behave while you put the molding up, but a great solution.... wish I'd thought of it/g/..

Just a couple of dabs of hot glue would keep the wires in place and they are still removable.

I've planned a wiring run on the floor of my TTT, under a molding similar to that Ross diagrammed. It will be a 3" wide strip of 1/4" plywood, with a 3/4" X 3/4" strip fastened to each edge, leaving a 3/4" x 1 1/2" space for the wires. This will be attached to the side wall at the floor, with a 1" wide piece of quarter round on top to round off the top edge. It will look like ordinary carpet molding (there will be a matching molding on the door side too). This works for me on the floor, as I have a cabinet in the front where the panel will be, and storage under the bed in the rear or my TTT, so the wiring run will be abut 4 ft long between the two. That makes it easy to pull wires if necessary. This takes care of the wiring to the rear (12V, 110V, tail/stop lights). Only the top wiring thorugh the walls and ceiling to overhead lights and fan won't be accessible.

Thanks Ross for the excellent plans! I think the dadoed molding will work great. I was hung up on a crown molding, but your plan is much easier and cleaner. Thanks to everyone else who tagged along with this thread I think these hints are all useful!
Time to go back to HomeDebto!