Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I'm picking up my 5x5 sheets of birch today, one problem that I ran into was the door and the floor of the trailer. I was going to leave a 3/4 lip all the way around, but the core wall will actually sit on the floor of the trailer, which means that I have to have a lip against the floor. How have others dealt with this?

The inner walls are going to be 1/4" ply, so I was going to use that to create the lip for the door seal. I could possibly route a lip into the floor of the trailer deep enough to create a lip for the seal, this is the one problem that I've really started to struggle with. I read that making the door frame flush to the floor is ideal, that's OK, but it makes the trim for the seal a problem..

One idea was to make the bottom of the door flush with the floor, and then create a little landing on the inside so you don't have an edge to sit over. Or put enough padding on the carpet to raise it to that level (maybe use a 1/2" lip as opposed to 3/4"...

Just looking for ideas, and to see what others have done...

Thanks

Does this photo help? This wall was built to fit on a floor that was 7/8" thick, if I recall. (So the bottom lip is 7/8" deep) I build with factory doors, so I can't answer your seal-lip question.

One idea was to make the bottom of the door flush with the floor, and then create a little landing on the inside so you don't have an edge to sit over.

You can have the bottom of your door protrude about halfway into your mattress height and it will feel fine when you're getting in and out. (My mattress is 7" thick.)

Hope this helps.

Tony

If your doors are going to be flush to the outside wall you will actually need a spacer between the inner wall and the door seal flange. The seal will last longer and seal better if it is only compressed about 1/3 of its free height.

For the Trim-Lok seal that I selected I ended up needing about a 3/8 inch spacer (two layers of 5mm ply) for the 5mm (3/16 inch) thick seal flange.

Make sure that you size the corner radius of the seal flange so that it is compatible with the seal you choose, then step the door radius off from that. If you size the door radius first, the seal radius might end up too tight resulting in kinks in the seal with potential leakage.

If you are going with aluminum T-trim and don't mind having the door sit slightly proud from the wall, I would look at how Aggie79/Tom did his Silver Beatle; his build is very well documented.