Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hello,
After quite some time I have completed the custom steel tube frame, have the suspension and wheels mounted and the large storage box in place.The trailer body specs are: 60 inches high, 96 inches long, 66 inches wide. I am in the midst of the sub floor that will contain the electrical wiring encased in pvc piping and also the propane system needed for heater, cooktop, and refrigerator.
While each of those two challenges ( electrical and propane) seem HUGE to me, I am already thinking about construction in the next phase, the sidewalls,

I have 5 x 10 plywood for the sidewalls. I have the windows and door etc. for these walls, which will be eventually having insulation and electrical wiring etc. installed once they are securely in place.

So, I m wondering if these sidewalls should be created in a modular style, before they are mounted on the trailer frame? Do you think its feasable to attach the filon siding and also windows and door etc. to each side before I swing them up and mount them on the trailer? I am by myself in this construction project and it seems to me that mounting the windows etc. and especially the siding, when the plywood is lying flat on horses can be a lot more efficient and precise.
I would appreciate your opinion in this; also some practical input on electrical and propane installation work would be fine. I already have been advised to use an Intellipower 4000 inverter for the complex 12v-120v system and charging component.
Thank you for your attention in this matter.
Gene So

I like the idea of doing as much as possible on the bench, so I am all for finishing the in and outsides.

I would go so far as to dry fit the windows and doors, but I would hold off installing them until the walls are up and rigidly fixed. I can picture a situation where the walls will likely still be a little flexible and may cause some issues handling if the doors and windows are in; especially since they will add a bit of weight.

On the gas pipe run, I'm not sure what the proper standards are, but I wouldn't bury it in the floor. In the event that you (or subsequent owners) should develop a leak sometime in the camper's lifespan you wouldn't want the gas to build up inside of the floor panel. I'm going on a long trip on unpaved forest service roads so if I had a propane bottle I would go to the trouble of running the line along the frame rail on standoffs, above the bottom of the frame. If necessary at the xmbrs I would weld in pass thru sleeves for the pipe to slip thru and/or armor any vulnerable areas of the run from road hazards. Others with less rugged adventures in mind just run the pipe slung under the frame on standoffs.

KCStudly wrote:...

On the gas pipe run, I'm not sure what the proper standards are, but I wouldn't bury it in the floor. In the event that you (or subsequent owners) should develop a leak sometime in the camper's lifespan you wouldn't want the gas to build up inside of the floor panel. I'm going on a long trip on unpaved forest service roads so if I had a propane bottle I would go to the trouble of running the line along the frame rail on standoffs, above the bottom of the frame. If necessary at the xmbrs I would weld in pass thru sleeves for the pipe to slip thru and/or armor any vulnerable areas of the run from road hazards. Others with less rugged adventures in mind just run the pipe slung under the frame on standoffs.

Ditto.... Propane piping should be out in open, if there is a leak it can then evaporate off and dissipate in surrounding air, if its encases in structure and collects it is a potential bomb...

Dale

...another thought, if it is out in the open a person would be far less likely to run a drill thru it performing future mods.

Count me in for running the gas line on the outside as well. It just makes sense to have it accessible later on & be able to work on it if it ever needs something. I did a tongue bottle on mine with a 1/2" black hard line running under the deck. It's in the plumbing section if you want to look at a few pictures of what I did. If I need to change, repair or replace it, I can take it apart fairly easily still.

The electrical would be the same thing for me. Use a generously sized conduit (gray plastic) underneath for the long runs, then bring it up through the deck where you need it. Again, if you need to pull another wire from front to back, it's simple to do & no problem later on. I sized my electrical conduit for the "minimum" size needed, but it should have been the biggest I could fit in place & would have been easier in general. It works well enough, but things would have been easier with a larger size.

I like the suggestions you have already about the walls. Go ahead & do as much as possible when they're laying flat, but leave the trim-out stuff for later. That way all you need is a hand once in a while from a friend to mount doors & windows. I've found they really enjoy holding things & watching the work take place. The walls can get heavy pretty quickly if you add everything at once.