Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Okay team, this photo is pretty obvious about what is wrong, but basically I wasn't able to let the hinge run beyond the edge of the galley, leaving a big gap for water. I also had to put a spacer in to help the gap. I've still got a while before I'm done with the rest of the teardrop, but I'd like to find the best way to seal the ends here



I would really like to avoid running a big ugly piece of rubber or plastic the whole way across the seam, but I've seen it done that way. I'm also told there is a way to cap the end, but not sure how to do that while still allowing it to pivot. I'd like to be as descrete as possible, while still being practical. Could I do the pond liner thing just on the 1 inch at the ends?

-HANK

I AM HURT~ I LIKED THE LOOKS OF MY TOTALLY WATERPROOF AND TROUBLE FEE GALLEY HINGE EFFORT.

Oops damn cap lock !




I liked it so well I did it again on the chuck wagon. Again no runs no drips no errors >

I should explain - the only reason I'm thinking that would look bad on mine is because it's a Woody: the only colors I have on it is silver and wood. But then again, I'm no artist, was just looking for discrete

I just had a look at your build journal and it is great to see a student taking on a project like this. I am sure you are looking forward to going camping in the spring.

I debated with myself about ordering a hurricane hinge and ended up going with some experienced hinges from an old closet door. I sealed it up similar to what Bob did. Actually I remember looking at his pictures for inspiration. I used strips of walnut above and below the hinges and for the seal used a bike tire tube. It does need to flew quite a bit when the hatch opens and closes so a fairly flexible seal is desirable. I left the rubber overhanging at the end. A more flexible material allowed be to make the hinge cover narrower. I don't think there is any hinge that would look great with a woody, but this is simple, cheap and if you look at the pictures below I don't think it destroys the look too bad, ie- it isn't the first thing you notice when looking at the trailer.

The first trip I took with the teardrop, I just covered the hinges with clear tarp tape. It worked pretty good too.



By the way - when repacking those trailer bearing be sure not to make the mistake I did long ago. The bearings need a tiny bit of play in them. Otherwise they will heat and expand slightly, then heat and expand some more and then overheat and disintegrate or even melt the axle. The proper procedure is to tighten with a torque wrench, then back off and re-tighten finger tight, then back off to next cotter hole position. I like to use the ez-lube type hub covers with the grease nipple on them and never take the bearing apart again.

The hurricane hinge was cut too short. Could you cut it in the middle, space it out and then cover it with the rubber? It would work in my book! As far as wheel bearings go, I use marine grade grease and bearing buddies. Since its not a boat trailer, the bearing buddies are optional.

This is just a prototype, but my trim would overlap this bicycle tube,basically acting as a rubber umbrella, thoughts?

Yes, that is pretty much what I did and it is working well. Keep the trim small to be aesthetically pleasing. You can get a better look at mine if you click on the pictures. I never have sorted out how to post decent size pictures. Anyway, I finished the wood first and then installed the inner tube rubber and wood trim using a good quality clear silicon.

Don

I too did it like Dons
I used Butynol roofing rubber that I pinched off a building site

It is good for 10 years or more outdoors

An option is to purchase another hurricane hinge at the appropriate length so it hangs over the sides by 3/8". I know this means more money, but you could probably sell your existing hinge on ebay to help defer the expense.

It's a thought.

But KEEP CRANKING! All of this blood, sweat, and tears will be good memories when you're camped in some glorious spot, lying inside, and drowsing off from reading a good book.

Tony

I deliberately cut my hurricane hinge flush with the sides, and then added this little piece of aluminum as an end cap. It's caulked and screwed on of course. The two holes are to allow water to drain off the top. The trailer has been outside for three years now without a leak.

However, I think you cut yours too short to do what I did. You may be best off to just buy another hinge and either let it stick out a ways, or cut it flush and make the plate like I did.

Probably not what you guys are looking for in this thread, but have you considered one of the select geared hinges? I know socal teardrops uses them but I cant find any pricing on them.

http://www.select-hinges.com/products/g ... inges.html

Sometimes a fellow must sacrifice looks for function. A rubber strip over the hinge is your best and most economical way out of your dilemma. What many see as good looks I see as awful design because it doesn't work.

A friend gave me a roll of 12" wide synthetic rubber for roofs. I cut it to 6" lengthwise and long enough to over lap the sides. I used an aluminum 8' flooring transition strip cut in half to secure the front and back of the rubber strip.

I used 3/4" #6 screws with finish washers to hold down the aluminum strips. Finish washers are hollow so I filled the bottom with Mortite rope caulk. The non hardening caulk squeezed out and made a totally waterproof seal for the wood and screw threads.

Mortite rope caulk is like modeling clay. It is good for sealing up anything that may be removed later, maybe years later. Rope caulk is great to seal up unusual gaps and holes because it is quick and easy to use. If you're having problems with the gap at the hatch hinge you can throw in a ball of non hardening caulk and close the hatch. It will smash and conform.

Tom

Can anybody help me with this thinking, such as will it work for this build. A new hinge is the best option, I agree. How would option number 2 work? Option number 2 involves buying the needed extra length and removing the old hinge. Move the top half of hinge one direction (left) and install and place extra length on the end that is short. Now move the bottom half of the hinge the other way (right). There by creating a splice that is over lapping. I am sure you could use a small, yet thin amount of sealant (refreshed when needed), over the exposed top splice to help eliminate any leaking.Your spacer should be remade to span the full length, this should help act as a rain channel for most water. Would this work?????

In my opinion, maybe. It would certainly open and close with no issues. The question is can you keep it from leaking. If you don't mind the look of a long rubber cover over the hinge like was shown earlier that should solve the possibility of leaks. My solution would be by a new hinge, but that costs more. If the budget is tight, try your idea. You can always buy a new hinge.

I did the same thing. My solution was to cut the hinge in the center, then separate the two halves, and insert the scrap piece you cut from the ends into the center. You'll have to seal it up tight with some marine adhesive like 3M 4200. So far, mine isn't leaking. If it ever does, I may have to just invest in another hinge.