Page 1 of 1
Aluminum Skin Question

Posted:
Fri Jan 13, 2006 4:45 pm
by rwhitley
Man, like to never figured this picture deal out.
You guys that have used the Henry's 663 before, are the adhesion properties similar in that it will it adhere in a vertical position without clamping and then use a J roller on it? Getting close to that part of the project. Looks like it would be a little more forgiving than contact cement. Thanks.


Posted:
Fri Jan 13, 2006 5:23 pm
by toypusher
I used the Henry's. I put nails along the frame at the bottom of the sidewall (between the frame and sidewall) and let the aluminum rest on them. The Henry's does seem to hold pretty good all by itself and I may not have needed the support of the nails. As soon as I could put the trim on around the top, I just pulled the nails out.

Posted:
Fri Jan 13, 2006 5:39 pm
by john
I used 663 and found it very forgiving. I rolled it on the trailer and then simply laid the aluminum on the layer of glue. Once on I was able to slide the aluminum around and at one point peeled it away to remove a chunk of dirt. I pressed it in place by press-sliding a rag over the aluminum. I feared that a roller might damage the thin aluminum I used. Any excess that I squeezed out was wiped up with a gas soaked rag.
I have since had to do a repair to my skirt (6 to 9 months later). I had to pull away some of my aluminum that was attaced with 663. The glue was still working well and still had flex.
john

Posted:
Fri Jan 13, 2006 7:28 pm
by rwhitley
Thanks Kerry and John,
that was the answer I was looking for. I knew it would work fine if you were working with the sides laying on the bench horizontally, just didn't know how well it would work with the walls already in the upright position.

Posted:
Fri Jan 13, 2006 7:39 pm
by madjack
John...how much trouble did you have pulling the aluminum loose when you did your repair...just curious
madjack


Posted:
Tue Jan 17, 2006 8:56 am
by john
madjack
I started at the pass. rear corner and pulled th skin away 7" up and approx 12" horiz ending up with a loose triangular flap. It started easy and of course got more difficult as more aluminum (hypotnuse??) was being removed. I never pulled the skin with a force perpindicular to the side of the trailer, but rather nearly parallel for fear of wrinkleing the polished aluminum. Also, I used an old swazall blade for prying near the line that was giving away while pulling the skin with the other hand. If the henrys had held any stronger I would have had more bending damage to the skin and would I would have given up the repair. As it is, the tail of the fender and a corner (end of trailer) light will cover much of that area anyway. Also, in an effort to covey henry 663 strength, the aluminum I used on the sides was VERY thin. It is Lowes valley flashing and it is very easy to damage limiting how hard I could pull on it, but that said, don't give too much weight to this last bit. The area I worked on was very small relative to the entire sheet and I feel that the henrys has more strength than is needed for the application.
It's a wordy answer but I don't have the metrics.

Posted:
Tue Jan 17, 2006 9:59 am
by madjack
thanks John, the info is appreciated......................................................
