Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I am nearly ready to mount my rear hatch and need some advice. I went with my own design and have stumped myself with a couple of problems. I went with a split opening lower door + upper hatch (so I have three doors in all). The split lower doors close and interlock and I plan to do the same on the upper hatch.

here is my question... the top edge of the split bottom doors is a flat surface that is perpendicular to the ground. The top hatch comes down but it's bottom surface is at an angle that doesn't match the top edge of the split doors. If I am guessing - the bottom of the hatch is about 20 degrees off from the top of the split doors. I need these to match up so that they will lock up and seal properly.

Does anyone have a suggestion on how I should measure, mark and cut where these doors meet? I am thinking I would rather cut the matching angle on the lower split doors since they are flat and easier to manipulate + if I messed something up these would be easier to fix/do over.

Right now I am leaning towards measuring/marking the angle of the top hatch and then cutting that angle into the top edge of the split doors with them both screwed to a sheet of plywood and lined up perfectly. I think if I cut them separately they might not match.

When I framed up the upper hatch everything fit like a glove and the angles matched. Twice now when I have skinned it something happens. You can see in this pic how things matched up when it was just framed:



The first attempt was a disaster. I skinned the inside and outside with the hatch on the ground. I think that my weight applied to the ply to bend it deformed the frame. I then pulled off all of the ply, scraped and sanded off all of the PL Premium and reinstalled the frame only. I still fit perfectly. On my second attempt I skinned the hatch with it in place and it turned out much better - but still not perfect for some reason. At this point I don't have the hinge yet so maybe when I hinge it on things will fit better...

First of all I have zero empathy for your problem––you've got about 10X more room in your shop than I do.

I just scrolled through your build log. Good looking 'drop. Nice job.

It seems to me that your problem only develops after skinning? Are you back to having an unskinned hatch? If you are, I'd search high and low for a sheet of 1/8" Baltic Birch and that may be your solution. If you need 1/4"... skin it twice. Lumberyard should be able to order it for you (but not the box stores).

If that option has flown the coop, do you have enough room to add a small wedge to the bottom of the hatch (and still have the proper space for your rubber seal)?

Tony

I was thinking small wedge, too.

One thing I found on my build was that sometimes it is easier to add more than you need and then take away what you don't need, rather than trying to add exactly what you need. When a shim tapers to nothing it gets kind of fragile on the edge and might not be the easiest thing to rip true. Once a larger/thicker piece is glued on it can be worked with a plane and/or sanding block to get it just right.

As far as where to add the shim, that depends on where the material is missing. If you cut the tops of the lower doors and the bottom of the upper hatch still does not reach them, then... well, that might not be the right way to go.

Another idea would be to add a raised lip at the front (inside) edge of the lower doors and a corresponding rabbet (on the inside) or lip on the back (outside) of the hatch. This would form a more positive closer and would help to keep any water out that might get by or pool at the seal.

If the hatch edge angles out (will shed water) I would make the tops of the doors match. Otherwise, add a wedge to the hatch, ripped on a table saw.

Yep, wedge the edge! Attach as needed & allow for a foam weather-strip thickness for the seal between surfaces.