Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I need a rear door for my square drop. This is what I am thinking. Does anyone know who makes this door and where to buy one?
Thanks

I did an image search, and found the pictured trailer at http://hikertrailer.net/. I don't see stand-alone doors offered, but they seem to have two locations and custom build trailers in many configurations. I built my own lift up rear hatch from a cut-down sheet of 3/4 plywood. Later, I added a single gas lift, to help me. It simply latches shut against the rubber seals I secured around the perimeter. Though mine is all wood, it hasn't warped or failed to seal in years. Build your own, if you can't find one. good luck! http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=61432#p1099571

If you build with a rear door, make it a hollow core type so it's light weight. Thin skins, insulation, hard points for hardware attachment & lights/wiring, positive latching mechanism are all things to consider. Remember, the rear door will take all of the loading from a twisting box in the wind, so make sure it's sealed properly & strong enough to take the loads which will try to transfer through it when bouncing down the road.

noseoil wrote:If you build with a rear door, make it a hollow core type so it's light weight. Thin skins, insulation, hard points for hardware attachment & lights/wiring, positive latching mechanism are all things to consider. Remember, the rear door will take all of the loading from a twisting box in the wind, so make sure it's sealed properly & strong enough to take the loads which will try to transfer through it when bouncing down the road.

A hollow, or honeycomb door would be best for weight and ease of use, but not nearly as durable. I wanted to use a sandwich-plywood piece for the hatch, but couldn't find any for under $125 for a 4x8 sheet, so I used what I had. I had already purchased 5 or 6 sheets of 3/4" poly-glued sanded ACX plywood for $125-150 (memory fails me), so that made any other consideration moot. If the OP has a similar square-back door in mind (as his photo shows), then the fitting of strong upper hinges, along with a either a perpendicular bulkhead, or triangular gussets, near the door seals, will assure that twisting won't be extreme. I used three nylon-bushed gate hinges to hold my hatch; there is no play, even after hundreds of operations. I used two types of side-latches, needing none on the bottom, to hold the hatch tight against the bulb-seal.

1. bulb seal between hatch and sidewall
2. two latches per side: hinge hasp, corner draw latch
3. three gate hinges hold hatch (waterproof belting cover)
4. added bulb seat to top of hatch later
5. doors have identical hinges