Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi - I'm doing a re-build. While tearing off the roof I discovered that this Tear has 2 pieces of the top flooting roof.
Obviously, this is not ideal but, I thought I'd ask. How would you tackle this? Add another ply maybe and just cover over it?
Trash it and go w/ something else?

Originally it was joined w/a glued and screwed board on the top. Also, no edge trim (place of purchase recommendations?)

Here's my build thread:
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=67838

And a link to my google pics:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B18se ... 2pfZXBqTnM


I've considered skinning the thing but,
1. I want to run new wires
2. Add insulation
3. Wanna clean any mold
4. I don't trust the original contstruction
and as you can see from the pics, I really need to get in there and check this out.

Thank for any comments!!
Andy

Hey! Checked out your pictures. Am I understand you correctly that that original trailer had NO exterior roof skin? Just the plywood? And that the plywood is only secured by screws along the perimeter? And that two pieces of plywood (looks like varnished lauan) were used to seam the roof?

If so ... well ...

Yeesh.

But, we all gotta start somewhere! So I'll give the original builder the benefit of the doubt.

-No matter what you do I'd seal the edges of that wall plywood. Water wicks 15 times faster through the edges of plywood than the face.
-Personally, I think lauan is only appropriate as an underlayment or sheathing, not an exterior. If you only need two sheets, why not okume marine plywood?

What sort of exterior are you gunning for?

RG, I WILL ATTEMPT TO ANSWER YOUR Q'S IN ALL BLOCK CAPS TO SEPARATE YOUR WORDS & MINE

beginning of quote="RubberGypsy" Hi - I'm doing a re-build. While tearing off the roof I discovered that this Tear has 2 pieces of the top flooting roof.

THIS METHOD OF TOPPING IS NOT UNCOMMON, IMHO

WE USE IT FOR PANELS OF BOATS THAT ARE TOO LONG FOR ANY READILY AVAILABLE PLYWOOD WE JUST KEEP THE BLOCKS ON THE INSIDE

SOME READING FOR YOU(KNOT KNOWING YOUR TOOL AVAILABILITY AND SKILL LEVEL I AM INCLUDING MORE THAN ONE OPTION W/ PICS):

http://www.amateurboatbuilding.com/arti ... y/ply.html

http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/stitchglu ... rfjig2.htm

Obviously, this is not ideal but, I thought I'd ask. How would you tackle this? Add another ply maybe and just cover over it?
Trash it and go w/ something else?

Originally it was joined w/a glued and screwed board on the top. Also, no edge trim (place of purchase recommendations?)

"BUTT BLOCK" JOINTS ARE COMMON AND VIABLE WHEN DONE CORRECTLY AND KEPT PAINTED FOR PROTECTION FROM THE ELEMENTS

"DWX" EPOXY FROM "DUCKWORKS" IS WAY LESS TOXIC AND HAS "UV" INHIBITORS BUILT INTO THE FORMULA WHICH WOULD BE A GOOD PRODUCT FOR YOUR PROJECT

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/supplies/ep ... /index.htm

ROOFING A TEARDROP AND INSTALLING A BOTTOM ON A BOAT HAVE VIRTUALLY THE SAME GOAL, KEEPING THE WATER OUT

LACK OF EDGE PROTECTION IS A PRIMARY SOURCE OF ROT/FAILURE(DUH!)

EPOXY COATING OF EDGES HELPS A LOT

ALL AFFECTED WOOD NEEDS TO BE REMOVED IF YOU WANT TO DO IT CORRECTLY

ONCE THE AFFECTED STRUCTURAL WOOD HAS BEEN DEALT WITH, EXCISED/REPLACED OR SUBSTANTIALLY PATCHED, RE-ROOFING W/ 2 LAYERS OF EXTERIOR GRADE OR PREFERABLY MARINE PLY WHERE YOU STAGGER THE JOINTS AND FULLY GLUE THE LAMINATION. USING SCREWS MAY NOT BE NECESSARY IF YOU GET YOUR LAYERS PROPERLY BONDED AND ALL EDGES N JOINTS PROPERLY SEALED

ANYWHERE YOU HAVE PLYWOOD EDGES EXPOSED TO THE ELEMENTS YOU ARE INVITING FAILURE

Here's my build thread:
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=67838

And a link to my google pics:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B18se ... 2pfZXBqTnM

THESE PICS INDICATE WATER INTRUSION AND THE AFFECTED WOOD NEEDS TO BE ELIMINATED, BEST, OR AT LEAST STABILIZED, SO-SO RESULTS

USING METALIC FASTENERS IN PLYWOOD EDGE GRAIN ISN'T SOUND PRACTICE

CONSIDER ADDING CLEATS INSIDE IF YOU WANT A SIMPLE OUTSIDE CORNER OR ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE WALLS TO PROVIDE A LIP EFFECT WHICH MAY GIVE THE EDGES OF THE WALLS BETTER PROTECTION

I've considered skinning the thing but,

ONCE THE STRUCTURAL DAMAGE HAS BEEN REPAIRED SKINNING OR FIBERGLASSING MIGHT SUIT YOUR TASTES

1. I want to run new wires
2. Add insulation
3. Wanna clean any mold

1, 2 & 3 ARE ALL EASILY ACCOMPLISHED DURING THE STRUCTURAL REPAIR STAGE

4. I don't trust the original contstruction
and as you can see from the pics, I really need to get in there and check this out.

ABSOPOSOLUTELY!!!

KEEP DIGGING UNTIL YOU PASS ANY AFFECTED WOOD

THEN START THE REPAIRS

Thank for any comments!!
Andy, end quote

GOOD LUCK W/ YOUR QUEST

sw

swoody126 wrote:RG, I WILL ATTEMPT TO ANSWER YOUR Q'S IN ALL BLOCK CAPS TO SEPARATE YOUR WORDS & MINE

....

USING METALIC FASTENERS IN PLYWOOD EDGE GRAIN ISN'T SOUND PRACTICE

....

sw

+1 on this answer.

To add a little information: If you must drill into the edges of the plywood, there are a couple easy ways to reinforce the connection. You can use a 1-inch hole saw bit and drill in a 1-inch hole from the side, plug it with hardwood, and then insert the screw through the end grain so it enters the hardwood plug. That will give it some bit. You can also drill a pilot hole, fill it with epoxy (there are certain kinds, I'm not sure which to recommend), and then drill into the epoxy.

If you don't use any other reinforcement ... Let's see ... use fine-thread wood or sheet metal screws and always predrill your holes.

Good luck!

Rather than drilling and screwing into epoxy, if you wax your screws you can "pot" (cast) them in place when you place the epoxy filler. This method is actually recommended by West System. After the cure pull them out and fasten. This casts the thread right into the epoxy. I used this technique when repairing some of my hatch hinge screw holes, just be sure to put them in the right place!

Big thanks to all who replied here. Lots of useful info. What a great community

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk