Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I am a cabinet maker by trade and I usually over build and make cabinets that would last through a nuclear bomb. I am trying to change my way of thinking as I am building my interior cabinets to save on weight. I found a picture of the way I would build if weight were not a consideration. I am thinking of a face frame and bottom only but I know the picture attached is a better way to build for strength. Can anyone give me some insight. Will a skeleton build with sparse materials hold up with the rigors of the road, or should I build them like the attach pic?

I am just like you. As a cabinet maker we rarely worry about weight when building a project. But teardrops are a project were weight can be very important. So I have tried to reduce my cabinets to bare minimum.

Here are a couple shots of my last trailer. All the interior cabinets were face frame and bottoms. Most had 1/4" bottoms and 1/8th inch vertical dividers. My exterior is 1/4" no interior paneling. I reduced the weight from my first build by about 1/2.













There are many ways to build a teardrop. I say they are like snowflakes in that each one is different. Find what works for you with the style of camping you prefer and enjoy the building process. It is a huge part of the fun. I am just starting my 4th trailer and it is a much different style but the same building practices will be used.

the POCKET SCREW impresses me more and more each time i see how folks are able to strengthen their build and reduce the weight necessary for a sound product

threads like this one are invaluable

THANKS

sw

If you do not have a pocket screw tool, get one. You will not be sorry. Beside making a strong joint it squares all your face frames. I use mine all the time.

I just did 1/2" baltic birch construction with 4/4 alder face frames. They were designed to provide torsional stability in the "box" at the front & back. I used a 1/4" panel for the galley/footboard cabinet backing which was slotted into the walls, floor & hatch spar. It's heavier than necessary, but there is no flex in the build & the cabinets are now a structural element. If I did it again, I would most likely shave some weight by doing more of a frame & panel design like Woodbutcher's.

I would still have a sandwich-wall build with insulation. It's just too hot here in the desert to not consider some insulation & cooling for summer camping.

Headboard


Footboard


Galley & bulkhead


Insulation

I'm no cabinet builder, but I have spent some quality time studying Tim's build and others. Here are some things I have learned along the way. (This isn't for the pro cabinet builders, rather people like me who cruise these posts trying to learn.)

- There is no substitute for quality. When purchasing wood, get the best you can afford. There are many options out there and I promise the cheaper variations will be disappointing. Be choosy and picky when selecting each piece as you go. You'll thank yourself later.

- Make every cut with extreme accuracy. Any play at all will only translate and compound along the way, meaning, that tiny bit of slop as small as it may seem will be the downfall the farther along you get. I learned quickly how different a cheap saw blade is compared to an expensive one. The better blades are more true and balanced and the cuts will be more accurate. Don't free hand anything. Use a table saw and when using a skill saw set up a guide. Harbor Freight has an amazing straight-edge clamp that I bought for 12 bucks. Worth 10 times more in the scheme of things.

-Don't overbuild and tie everything together. The strength is in the sum of the parts. Think airplane not tank.

-Invest in a good Kreig Jig. I didn't know they existed but now that I do, wow. All the difference in the world. And don't buy a cheap one. You'll end up buying a better one later on out of frustration, so just get a good one right away. You're welcome.


-I looked at a bunch of cabinets being built in some really nice boats. The cabinet faces were made in one piece, with the door and drawer openings cut out, rather than a multiple piece face, one stick at a time. It impressed me and I followed this method. The result is clean with no joints to glue, screw or see. I like that and the strength is amazing.

Hopefully someone will benefit from something here...

Michael, IMHO, you forgot to mention QUALITY bonding agents/fasteners

otherwise i would +100% your post

sw

swoody126 wrote:Michael, IMHO, you forgot to mention QUALITY bonding agents/fasteners

otherwise i would +100% your post

sw

I knew there was something else! Thanks for the reminder...

Here's another couple of tips.

Overlay or partial-overlay drawer fronts and doors are more "forgiving" than inset doors.

Drawer boxes and cabinet doors (rail & stile aka frame and panel doors) - can be hard to fabricate without a good assortment of equipment and tools and a modicum of experience. For not much more cost than what an individual can purchase materials for a DIY project, you can buy ready-to-assemble drawer boxes and pre-made cabinet doors.

Ready To Assemble dovetail drawer boxes cost $17.00 each from www.lakesidemoulding.com which seems like a bargain for a higher quality drawer than most of us could make on our own. I intend to buy eight drawer boxes which will add up to a total cost of $136.00. Five drawers will be used for the galley and three drawers for the rear sleeping area cabinet.

They make Shaker cabinet doors for $34.00 each for doors sized up to 18" (W) x 32" (T). I may buy three doors for the sleeping area cabinet.

Shipping: A minimum of $25.00 is charged on all door, drawer front, and drawer box orders. This is to cover the expense of packaging and shipping your order. After the first item, $5.00 per item is added to cover the additional freight charges.

Woodbutcher wrote:If you do not have a pocket screw tool, get one. You will not be sorry. Beside making a strong joint it squares all your face frames. I use mine all the time.

I bought a Kreg pocket hole tool set.

The harborfreight.com/portable-pocket-hole-jig-kit-96264 is a more affordable alternative.

Lumber Jocks reviews of the Harbor Freight Pocket Hole Jig

Esteban wrote:Ready To Assemble dovetail drawer boxes cost $17.00 each from www.lakesidemoulding.com which seems like a bargain for a higher quality drawer than most of us could make on our own. I intend to buy eight drawer boxes which will add up to a total cost of $136.00. Five drawers will be used for the galley and three drawers for the rear sleeping area cabinet.

They make Shaker cabinet doors for $34.00 each for doors sized up to 18" (W) x 32" (T). I may buy three doors for the sleeping area cabinet.

Shipping: A minimum of $25.00 is charged on all door, drawer front, and drawer box orders. This is to cover the expense of packaging and shipping your order. After the first item, $5.00 per item is added to cover the additional freight charges.

I highly recommend Lakeside. I purchased drawer boxes, drawer fronts, and doors from them. While I have dovetail jig, router table, etc., and may have saved about 25% if I made them myself, I didn't (and still don't) have a lot of time for hobbies. Purchasing everything saved several weekends of time.

Esteban wrote:

Woodbutcher wrote:If you do not have a pocket screw tool, get one. You will not be sorry. Beside making a strong joint it squares all your face frames. I use mine all the time.

I bought a Kreg pocket hole tool set.

The harborfreight.com/portable-pocket-hole-jig-kit-96264 is a more affordable alternative.

Lumber Jocks reviews of the Harbor Freight Pocket Hole Jig

You will not be sorry. Have fun with the pocket cutter.

Thanks for all the tips guys.... Here is a pic of the project.. As soon as I get the tongue and groove roofing on the cabinets are going in...

Face frame and bottom only with the middle cubby reserved for a tv. Yes I know most of you like to be outside when camping, but I love watching an hour of tv right before I fall asleep.