Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I have searched all over this site but am still quite confused...

I got an old pop up camper. Roughly 6x9, which will make a pretty great sized camper. I plan on making a Benroy or a variation of it. I will put 2x2 wood framing over the metal frame with marine grade ply wood over that. Insulation will go in between all the 2x2s. (Also not quite sure what kind of 2x2 wood or bolts I should use for this and connecting to the frame.)

My question is, what is the best (structurally) way to attach the walls to the floor? Should I just bolt the side walls to the 2x2s that are also bolted to the frame?(Also, what type of bolts or screws?) I feel like over time the movement of the trailer and weight of the entire top would wear down quite a bit.

I am very new to this and very new to building in general... I appreciate any advice I will get here.

Check this sticky in general construction. I like the internal cleat but all are viable. http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=19442

QueticoBill wrote:Check this sticky in general construction. I like the internal cleat but all are viable. http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=19442

So basically just bolt something to the floor and then bolt the side wall to that while simultaneously resting on the floor itself? Makes sense. Any suggestions on what type of bolts need to be used?

I'm probably not in the majority but I plan to glue and screw - 1 1/2" x #10 fhws - cleat to floor, and probably pocket screw wall to cleat. I am considering just glue - there is a lot of surface area.

I glue and pocket screw on either the inside or the outside depending on the wall/floor configuration. The last two 'drops I built were sitting on dollies and I was able to put a second line of screws (every 10") up from the bottom. In the below photo, you an see screws near the Kreg holes going from the wall/floor overlap horizontally into the floor. Sandwiched walls glued and screwed to the floor in this manner are solid.



I use PL Premium glue for this joint. It also seals and I would be concerned that if you didn't do this the seam could become a critical avenue for moisture through capillary action.

I sheath with aluminum so outside pocket holes are not an issue. Inside pocket holes are below the mattress line and no one will ever see them. If you look close at the far wall of this project you'll see the Kreg screw holes sit near the floor.



Tony

I use a 1/4" X 3/4" rabbet joint cut in the side wall, then fasten that to the deck. Screws go in from the sides & bottom of the deck, so it's plenty strong. Simple to do, good alignment & won't come apart once the glue sets.

IMO it is better to use more small fasteners to hold a glue joint tight all along its seam, than it is to use a few larger fasteners. The screws hold the joint tight until the glue (or adhesive) sets and most of the strength comes from the glue bond.