Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

So we started on the hatch. We traced the profile for the ribs, cut it out on thin board, matched it up. Determined the width and measured out. The ribs are cut out of 3/4" birch, matched to the profile again and pieced together and before attaching and building the frame, we did a dry fit, checked the measurements and it was time to put together.

After everything was set up and put together and checked the fit - for some reasons, the fit was off, made some adjustments and achieved a better fit. We have since put on the outer and inner skin, checked measurements again and turns out we are out of square by about 1/2" - 3/4". Measurement from top to bottom matches, but we're off corner to corner. Short of taking everything apart and starting over - what are the options??? I know builds aren't perfect, but this is driving us nuts...

Is the spar your attaching tbe hatch to square to the body?

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dales133 wrote:Is the spar your attaching tbe hatch to square to the body?

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I believe so...

Might pay to do some measurements from a reference poin you know is square and double check.
There can only be 2 posibilities for the problem
The hatch spar or the hatch itself as far as i can see.
Meause your hatck diagonaly both sides and see if the measurements are the same

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dales133 wrote:Might pay to do some measurements from a reference poin you know is square and double check.
There can only be 2 posibilities for the problem
The hatch spar or the hatch itself as far as i can see.
Meause your hatck diagonaly both sides and see if the measurements are the same

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

Hubby thinks it may have shifted when we added the spars...and it's the diagonal measurement that's off.

I don't think I can solve your 'unsquare' problem??. When I built my TD in 2006 I used 3/4" birch plywood (11 ply cabinet grade) for the ribs. I cut them 1 3/4" thick & fitted & notched them to fit the top hinge spar which is made from full 1" thick X 3" oak, & matches an identical roof spar where the 'Better than Hurricane' hinge is attached. I ordered the hinge from Grant Whipp at Little Bear Parts in California. The hatch ribs & frame were 'dry fitted' 'on the trailer' before final assembly. I made the spacers between the ribs from nominally 1X2" fir (actual 3/4" X 1/3'4") in which I drilled 'pockets' for screws, & glued/screwed them in place while the frame was 'dry fitted' to the trailer.



After all bracing & the hinge spar was dry fitted/clamped in place, I moved the hatch frame to my work table & screwed/glued everything in place.

Top of hatch is on right side in pic.


I then reinstalled the frame on the trailer, fitted the wood skin (2 layers of 1/8" luan), & attached the skin. The luan overlaps the 1 1/4" thick outer wall which is fitted with rubber weather stripping for dry seal.



The final outer skin of 0.040" aluminum was fitted & is held in place by the hinge, edge trim, tail/brake/turn signal lights, License plate holder & light, & the center located 'T' handle.



I use 5/8" X 1 1/2" hinged oak props to hold the hatch in the open position, mainly 'cause I didn't want to compute the strength/location for gas props.




The TD was 'campable' in mid-Sep 2006 after 4 mos of intermittent work. Over the next year I constructed fenders, a 'rear bumper, & a tongue box, completed the galley & interior cabinets. We've since towed it around 30K miles. loaned it to our grandaughter & her husband for NASCAR trips, all without major incidents & the hatch hasn't 'shifted' a bit as far as I can tell... I didn't/don't have enough confidence in my construction abilities to try building the hatch off the TD.

Harvey -

With regards to building the hatch, we did similar to what you did...including the pocket screws, glue and screwing in place.

I do like your idea for the props - for the same reason. I also like the swing out panel for the stove, can I ask how you put that together? I'd like to go with that same concept.

dakippen wrote:Harvey -

With regards to building the hatch, we did similar to what you did...including the pocket screws, glue and screwing in place.

I do like your idea for the props - for the same reason. I also like the swing out panel for the stove, can I ask how you put that together? I'd like to go with that same concept.

Be glad to send you all the info I have on the fold-out table. I got the idea from a 1st yer attendee at LCG I at Lake Bistineau, LA in 2006. User was Nub-on or perhaps Nub-one. He was from Lake Charles, LA & had used the idea from someone else. I had some remnants from the plywood I made my hatch ribs from, as well as the galley counter. I sent some info to another forum member, Coyote, couple of years ago by email (it's much easier for me to send pix by email). If you'll pm me your email address I'll try to locate the pix & dimensions & send them to you. May take a few days as I ain't as fast as I once was.

Nobody wrote:

dakippen wrote:Harvey -

With regards to building the hatch, we did similar to what you did...including the pocket screws, glue and screwing in place.

I do like your idea for the props - for the same reason. I also like the swing out panel for the stove, can I ask how you put that together? I'd like to go with that same concept.

Be glad to send you all the info I have on the fold-out table. I got the idea from a 1st yer attendee at LCG I at Lake Bistineau, LA in 2006. User was Nub-on or perhaps Nub-one. He was from Lake Charles, LA & had used the idea from someone else. I had some remnants from the plywood I made my hatch ribs from, as well as the galley counter. I sent some info to another forum member, Coyote, couple of years ago by email (it's much easier for me to send pix by email). If you'll pm me your email address I'll try to locate the pix & dimensions & send them to you. May take a few days as I ain't as fast as I once was.

Thank you! Sent a PM.

dakippen wrote:

dales133 wrote:Might pay to do some measurements from a reference poin you know is square and double check.
There can only be 2 posibilities for the problem
The hatch spar or the hatch itself as far as i can see.
Meause your hatck diagonaly both sides and see if the measurements are the same

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

Hubby thinks it may have shifted when we added the spars...and it's the diagonal measurement that's off.

So your saying the hatch is out of square or the hatch spar?

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dales133 wrote:

dakippen wrote:

dales133 wrote:Might pay to do some measurements from a reference poin you know is square and double check.
There can only be 2 posibilities for the problem
The hatch spar or the hatch itself as far as i can see.
Meause your hatck diagonaly both sides and see if the measurements are the same

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

Hubby thinks it may have shifted when we added the spars...and it's the diagonal measurement that's off.

So your saying the hatch is out of square or the hatch spar?

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

The hatch - after we put the interior skin on, the hatch has become more out of square, so it's back to square one and making a new one.

dakippen wrote:

dales133 wrote:

dakippen wrote:

dales133 wrote:Might pay to do some measurements from a reference poin you know is square and double check.
There can only be 2 posibilities for the problem
The hatch spar or the hatch itself as far as i can see.
Meause your hatck diagonaly both sides and see if the measurements are the same

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

Hubby thinks it may have shifted when we added the spars...and it's the diagonal measurement that's off.

So your saying the hatch is out of square or the hatch spar?

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

The hatch - after we put the interior skin on, the hatch has become more out of square, so it's back to square one and making a new one.

What you could try is adding a wedge of timber from zeromm to the amount its out of square or a bit more.
To simllify...say its 10mm out of square then plane or rip a wedge the width of the hatck thats lets say 10mm at one end an 1mm at the other end and glue it to the top of the hatch.
You can then add or remove material from the side and or bottom as required.
Id remove at least the outter hatch skin to do this.
It will save you alot of work in the long run and i see no reason why it shouldnt work

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Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk[/quote]


The hatch - after we put the interior skin on, the hatch has become more out of square, so it's back to square one and making a new one.[/quote]
What you could try is adding a wedge of timber from zeromm to the amount its out of square or a bit more.
To simllify...say its 10mm out of square then plane or rip a wedge the width of the hatck thats lets say 10mm at one end an 1mm at the other end and glue it to the top of the hatch.
You can then add or remove material from the side and or bottom as required.
Id remove at least the outter hatch skin to do this.
It will save you alot of work in the long run and i see no reason why it shouldnt work

Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk[/quote]

Dale- both outer and inner skins were on and shimming wasn't possible at this point. So, going to rebuild and check everything 3 times rethinking the process.