Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

So I am getting really close on my weekender build. I have the ceiling up and almost all the insulation cut and fit on the roof. My power all works and most of the interior has been finished. I do wish I would have thought about the hatch a little more when starting but too late now. As seen below on the pictures it's the classic weekender rear end except I decided to utilize space all the way to the floor with pullouts like some more rounded ends. This leaves me with the issue of not being able to use a drop down section on the bottom. So I have thought of 2 solutions.

1. Have a pretty simple hatch up top over the work area and cabinets. Then have 2 doors that open outward which include the bottom inward angle.

2. Have one large hatch that includes all three angles. The one issues I see with that is that I would have to have struts long enough to hold the hatch up high. Not sure if I have the room to add those. The other is if/when it rains the bottom angle will probably be angled right at my back and drip water right on it.

So asking for any advice with the above options or something completely different. Simpler the better but I have surprised myself a good amount with this build. Thanks!

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I would go Option 1 with barn doors on the bottom half. Let your top hatch extend out over the bottom doors to shed water.

I to would go with opt. 1 good luck with what ever you choose

Great! That was the way I was leaning. SO I am looking at hinges, and ideally I think I would want both the barn doors to cover the complete width of the galley including the frame. Have weather striping on all ends of the frame so that all edges of the doors are water tight. In the middle I will have one door with a lip to cover the middle. And have a lip on the top hatch over the barn doors to shed water away. So am I right that I would need a strap hinge and connect it to the sides of the teardrop and the face of the doors? Or is there another hinge that will accomplish that. The only configurations I have seen with strap hinges connect to the end of the frame rather than around the corner and on the side. Thanks!

Okay, I have a different perspective that I think would be both easier to build and seal, and would give more shade/rain protection.

Have the top hatch come down over the top two facets, including the vertical face, then have a small tailgate hinged off the back edge of the floor that flips down.

If the top hatch is just the top facet as soon as it opens past horizontal you will be loosing shade/coverage. With the extra vertical section added on it shouldn't have to lift too high and will still extend out when open. Scale model in cardboard or paper and compass should be easy to figure out.

Not sure Option 2, above, is an option. From the angle of the pic it almost looks like the lower hook won't swing thru. Again, profile sketch and compass will show if it swings thru.

The reason I think the tail gate is easier/more fail proof is that it reduces the number of hinges and joints that will all have to be aligned and secure. The tailgate can have a raised rib at the back top edge to act as a bridgewall/cofferdam, and the sealing surface can be sloped down and out to help shed water. This cofferdam seal ledge would help stiffen the top of the tailgate all across, helping to maintain a secure fit with the upper hatch. The lower edge of the upper hatch can have the same sort of matching profile with the seal adhered to it, so that it is up and away from wear and tear when it is open.