Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

• I'm having a storage problem, trying to get my squareback trailer ready-to-go with all my gear stowed in advance. I have waterproof/critter proof storage boxes that i can throw into my truck bed at a moments notice, containing pantry, EDC gear (just in case my trailer fails me), and miscellaneous parts & tools I haven't got room for in my big crossbed tool box. There's room for spare gasoline jugs, porta can & spare filler, big cooler, and plastic tables (made from Keter storage shelves). I already have my Hi-Lift stored there, so I've run out of room in the truck bed.
• The front half of my 4'x8' trailer is used for cargo transport, until I arrive at my camp. I fold back my mattresses (2), strap them in position to D-rings, and then I have 35-36" in front, to carry two 7-gallon Aquatainers, and two smaller coolers. I strap these items to an E-track I mounted on the front wall, and put overhead straps to D-rings (to keep the cooler lids closed). I also carry detached side-tables (in a canvas bag), a Coleman camp chair, two bagged sling chairs, and a twist-to-set-up potty tent, all on top of the mattresses. As you can see, I've got a full load, but there's really no space left (the rear storage/galley is already full).
• That leaves the storage of my two canopies as the problem.Too long and heavy to put in my truck cab, so they need to stay with the trailer (even when at home, in the garage bay). I was going to dispense with canopies in favor of tarps and awnings, but canopies (yes, I bought a second one) are cheaper, with less elaborate rigging (I spent months trying to fabricate an all-purpose tarp/awning, but it would've required $200+ in parts, and drilling 48 holes in my trailer; no-go), so two canopies fit my requirements, for now.But, without a rack to carry them, I just pile them in the truck bed with the other gear.
• I've been looking for a small, inexpensive rack, for my trailer. Everything is just a little too expensive, large, or requires more holes drilled in my rooftop (I have too many already).
• I was going to get a rear hitch mounted carrier, and adapt it to the sloping front on the trailer, but I spotted some industrial shelving in my mother-in-law's storeroom, that would fill the same purpose. They are very sturdy wire shelves, 48"x18"x2" (sorta shallow, but many people use even flatter racks to strap things to), and would be easy to make a sturdy framework for, at little cost. My Mom-in-law didn't want to sacrifice her shelves for the cause (I didn't like the chrome anyway), so I found some on Amazon that would work.

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  industrial shelf 600lbs capacity.PNG (42.95 KiB) Viewed 1880 times

  silver/zinc (my #1 choice) or powder coated black
• If I used 1/8" thick aluminum angle to build a simple framework, the colors of shelf and framework would fit in with my low-tech scheme, require few more holes in my trailer (less tan a rooftop rack, or my awning scheme), and have suitable attachment points for the intended load (two 45 lb canopies), and the open wire mesh would have good drainage.Since I'm trying to keep all my trailer weight as far forward as possible (I built it too heavy in the rear, with A/C unit, an on-board generator with extended run fuel supply, and cooking and lighting gear, back there. Lashing my canopies to a front rack, will help balance it even more so.)

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  proposed industrial shelf as a mini-rack.jpg (37.79 KiB) Viewed 1880 times

  rough drawing of simple mini-rack & framework
• As usual, I may get the parts, assemble them, and find something better or simpler to do, but I figure I can make it work for $50-60 outlay, less than the racks, carriers, and re-purposed conduit or load ramps or ladders that some have used (I was measuring up a spare aluminum ladder, when my wife sensed what I was going to do with it, and said no...).

• I looked among my metal supplies, leftover from previous projects, and found a 60" piece of slotted angle. I had used more of this as a stabilizer for my tongue box, doubled-up to brace the box for road shocks (box is sitting on a slide-out mounted to a 3x3 beam). When doubled, I can stand on it, so the slotted angle will be strong enough to hold up the foreseen loads I wish to carry on the rack.

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  killer price for experimental rack components.jpg (28.96 KiB) Viewed 1880 times

  these two pieces are all I had to buy
• I only had the one piece left, so while I was out the other morning, I swung by Home Depot to pick up another piece. I decided to order the shelf, but at a reduced price, in case it turns out badly (non-functional, I mean; appearance doesn't really matter much to me, since it will match the low-tech semi-industrial motif of my trailer).
• Stay tuned, this might work out-or not-, pictures of the results to follow.

Actually, the previous post is an abridged version of a thread I had on Expedition Portal. I completed the project today, so I'm posting here, too.
• I received the wire shelf yesterday, and gathered all my parts together. I found that it was rather difficult to measure, mark, and position the 15 lb. shelf where I wanted it, with only one arm able to work alright (bad thumb and rotator cuff injury on my left arm). But, I figured out the general locations and marked them ok.
• Today, I started by placing the wall/front slope clips in place, on the 45 degree front of the trailer, and snapped them over the bottom rear edge of the shelf, to hold the shelf in place, so I could measure ans set the support arms, prior to cutting the slotted angle. After the angle stock was cut (2 x 32" each), I drilled out the corners of the front of the shelf, to accept 3/8" bolts (the nominal size of the slotted angle holes, too). With eah front corner drilled, I attached a slotted angle piece to both, then lifted one side at a time to "level", and used #9x1.5" Simpson Strongties structural screws to fasten to the trailer front wall. The screws were used because there was insufficient space to use nuts and bolts (I could've drilled the holes, inserted the bolts, but not the nuts). So, I used the screws with bonded rubber/steel washers under the angle, next to the wall, to prevent water intrusion (I used the same washers under the clips, with 10-24x 1.5" stainless bolts and nylocks).
• Tightening down the rear clips was the hardest part of the job. Inside the cabin, hanging from the front slope, is a wooden shelf for my cooling fans (3), stereo and speakers (including hidden marine antenna), LED lighting (one of three sets in the cabin), and all the associated wiring. I could barely reach inside, to put on the backside washers and nylocks, kneeling on the mattress, and had to wedge the bolt heads to keep them from turning, while I tightened the nylocks from inside (if both my arms were working, it wouldn't have been a problem. Tightening these four took me four hours! After that was done, I used left-over angle to reinforce the support arms, by bolting a second thickness inside the supports. I don't expect any problem with them, but extra strong is better anyway.
• I spent $14 for one 60" angle (I already had one on hand), and $19 for the shelf (Amazon Warehouse deal -like new, in original box-, and I already had the steel clips, and the other hardware I needed. Total cost, $33 (probably $60, if I had to buy everything). Not fancy, a rudimentary design; but it's just what I was intending to make, for a specific purpose. I'm not going to paint it, the zinc/stainless look will weather fine (it sits in the garage between trips anyway).

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  rack 1.png (468.71 KiB) Viewed 1875 times

  48x18 shelf, to serve as a rack

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  rack 2.png (379.19 KiB) Viewed 1875 times

  zinc/stainless/aluminum theme all over

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  canopies strapped to rack.png (445.94 KiB) Viewed 1875 times

  specifically made for my two canopies

• True, my trailer isn't the most beautiful one out there, nor was it ever intended to conform to any conventional design...it is what it is, an attempt to pack in the necessities for one-person camping, in or out of the usual camping locales, on or (slightly) off-road. The "attempt" is a continual process, and I modify the trailer to meet my needs, or at least try, between every outing Some mods are better than others, and remain, while others are less successful, and are discarded.
• My latest modification, a front rack, made from cheap and/or re-purposed leftover materials, is a logical (to me) step towards my goal of being ready to pack up and go, in an instant, without finding space to stow my gear, or having to check for what is and isn't aboard. Not satisfied with just having my canopies stowed on the new rack, I decided to add bracing with more leftover scrap, so I could add a folding chair (in a bag) on top, bringing the total suspended weight to 100 lbs.
• After the rack was braced to my satisfaction, I thought that the flat top of the tongue box would make a great spot to carry my pantry-in-a-box (a Tractor Supply storage box), provided that I add tie-down locations to the rack. I added three D-rings to the reinforced rack, and added a forged 3/8" eyebolt to the TSC box as an attachment point for motorcycle straps, and voila...my pantry will be ready to go, whenever I need it (it is always stocked with Spam, beans, and greens for two weeks, and I can carry a small bag of perishables in my truck, from my home stores).
• When I built the trailer, I made the front slope at 45 degrees, to lessen wind resistance. That was when I thought my HHR Panel would be the tow vehicle, but my TTT, now at 2000+ lbs, was too heavy for it. I use my Chevy 2500 HD pickup as my TV, and wind resistance of the trailer doesn't matter, at all, so I can partially block the sloped front, with no deleterious effects. And, there is still an air gap allowing flow up the slope, anyhow, if ever I get a less capable tow vehicle.

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  upper and lower bracing for rack.jpg (63.23 KiB) Viewed 1688 times

  used scrap metal to reinforce the rack for extra loading

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  pantry box secured on tongue for travel.png (331.77 KiB) Viewed 1688 times

  with D-rings to attach to, pantry box can ride on the tongue box

• My wife just asked me why I keep on changing the configuration of my trailer (I no longer hold any hopes of her using it, though I designed it for her use, at first). She doesn't understand why I must modify things, constantly, when nothing is really wrong with them. I changed my load and loading procedure after every drag race I participated in, for years, never getting it "just right", even after two decades (trying to cover all eventualities, but keeping it simple and fast to load up). But, it never worked out for me, since I had to load from scratch, and completely unload after coming home, because I had no enclosed space for truck, trailer, and gear (only the race car got covered in the garage. I loaded boxes of tools and gear, only having to remove it all, before going to work. It wore me out, eventually, and I don't miss the racing much, because of the hassle. If only I had everything ready-to-go, at all times!; it would've been a joy, comparatively.
• Now, I don't race anymore, but I've switched over to camping, and the outdoors, having retired 17 months ago (I started building the trailer 68 months ago, in anticipation, and have been using it sporadically, for 45 months). And I have the same problem, packing up for a trip, setting up once there, and unpacking back at home. Admittedly much easier, since meeting my living requirements for camp are much less than for supplies and tools for my race car (and for much of my team's cars, as well). I don't have to unload the trailer from the trailer, as ridiculous as that sounds; it just gets stowed in the garage, alongside the unused Chevelle. But, the gear sitting uncovered in the bed of the truck remains, and I'm not as mobile as I once was, so I've put everything I could, into weatherproof storage boxes, again.
• My trailer sits loaded, in the garage, with water, a Coleman folding chair, and side tables and side tents inside the cabin, strapped to the front wall (using an E-track system), with only the rear ice chest waiting to be loaded (I keep the cold/frozen meats and perishable foods there, in the "galley"). But, I was still having to load up my canopies, other chair, spare fuel, porta-potty and spare supplies for it, and my two other coolers, into the bed of my truck. Also, tools and parts that I like to carry, in addition to those in the truckbox and trailer tonguebox. And, my EDC box, with get-home bag and certain supplies, that goes with me in either of my vehicles, whenever I travel 50 miles out.So, it seems that I am in the same situation now, packing for the outdoors, as I fell into while packing for racing.
• I have just made a functional, but not pretty, rack, to hold the canopies and extra chair, and attached my pantry box to that rack, sitting on the tonguebox. I strapped it tightly to four points with motorcycle straps...it's not going anywhere; I always put it on my tailgate or on a side table at camp, so it's not in my way, in this location. I've decided to leave the extra toolbox in my truck, fulltime, and the light EDC box, moves from one vehicle to another, as needed. Just the fuel, porta-potty equipment, and coolers need to be unloaded, now, but since they are all waterproof, it won't be a pressing need, anymore. Slowly, but surely, I'm getting closer to the goal of instant readiness, but a dedicated outdoors vehicle and a 12v-120v cooler (or two) are still on my wishlist.

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  securing the pantry for travel.png (203.31 KiB) Viewed 1661 times

  rack provides secure carry of pantry, also

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  storage boxes always carried in truck bed.png (142.25 KiB) Viewed 1661 times

  extras now stay in truck bed between trips

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  PREPPED & READY.png (374.36 KiB) Viewed 1661 times

  getting closer to instant readiness

Kazrael wrote:...Would like side tent on both sides if I go the TD route.Thought that something like an ARB awning, connected to a roof rack would work. It can function as just an awning or an enclosed room....

• I've been wrestling with the side tent vs awning question for years, now, and still haven't answered it , yet. I haven't camped very often, so I've had plenty of time to overthink and overplan possible solutions to that problem, and others, like the storage rack on the trailer front.
• Trying to achieve a simple set up/take down system for "instant deployment" occupied my thoughts for almost the entire eighteen months I didn't camp at all, just recently. My trailer flooded due to a bad door seal (and a canopy dumping water directly on it), and I vowed that that would never happen again (and I wasn't ready to go out, until I was pretty sure it wouldn't). I drew up many plans to make my own awning, or multiple awnings, from tarps (I just refuse to pay the ridiculous prices for ARB-type "bag awnings"), but finally decided that too much expense (for parts to make it work) and too many holes to add to my trailer for mounting points (I already have more than I like, each a potential leak), so I fell back to a simpler solution: canopies, side tents, and sidewalls, like more experienced campers use.
• Since I have a 4x8 TTT, with only about 5 ft. of roofline, a bag awning wouldn't cover the front door (under the sloping part of the roof), without an extension rod for support, anyhow; but, a stand-alone canopy would cover it, if positioned correctly. To cover the other door, used only as an emergency exit, usually, I put up a sidewall, to block wind/sun/water (blown in, or dumped on). Or, if time, need, or space allows, I have a side tent made to connect to the canopy, and do the same things, plus adding a floored changing area/porta-potty tent, as well.
• I think I have a workable solution to the side tent/canopy/awning problem, at least for now. I'll carry two of each with me, and set them up according to length of stay vs effort involved in setting up, weather conditions for that stay, and ground conditions of the immediate trailer "pad" area. On my last trip, in a wooded (shaded) area, I saw no need to use my second canopy, to cover my cooking area, under and to the side of my galley (the hatch was enough cover, without need for more, in the shade). I used my small, tee pee-style pop-up side tent, strapped to a canopy leg for support, as my changing area/potty tent, since I had a real building w/facilities only 100 feet away, so this tent was only up for "emergency use". And, with no need for the larger, floored, side tent due to the nearby facilities, I didn't need it up. Instead, I put up a sidewall in its' place, next to the emergency exit door. As usual, the canopy was set-up offset, over the trailer, giving me a four-foot covered area for dry entry into my trailer, and a covered sitting area.

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  choosing a preferred side tent.png (288.72 KiB) Viewed 1569 times

  criteria for choosing one tent over the other
• So, the extra canopy, extra side tent, and extra side wall (a small tarp) were ready, but not needed, for a three-day stay. Under different conditions, I might've used them all, but I was prepared, in any case!
• I gave up on instant set-up, and take-down, but, I really don't need that, as I am slowly learning that the cost of time spent making camp, is the payment for returning to nature. I probably don't even need the extra shelter(s), my TTT is enough by itself, provided that I use it as I designed it, as a hardtop tent. No extras needed, just a good place to sleep, off the ground, and dry (if I shut the door!), and comfortable.

VT800C wrote:Good old Dexion. That stuff is as useful as Duct Tape for a thousand things! Wish I could have ready access to a bundle of about 100 pieces. I could REALLY frame up a 'foamie' trailer with THAT stuff! bolt that directly to a harbor freight frame...attach some 1-1/2" 4x8 foam panels and.....

wait a sec... I think I might have a design for my second build!

• Not quite the same as Dexion (industrial rack system), but a combination of NSF stainless kitchen shelving (for racks in bakeries, etc.) with slotted/perforated angle steel (like a light-duty adult erector set). The Dexion stuff has much heavier load capabilities, and the shelving is just wire mesh (actually lighter grade than the NSF stuff I used) suspended over other heavy rails. It snaps together, with spring-loaded safety pins to hold it firmly together. I managed warehouses of these "Dexion"-type racking, during the last phase of my career, so I have great familiarity with them.
• The perforated steel angle pieces I used were just the big box store type, ideal for home handyman projects, but was just right (light, zinc-coated) for the use(s) I put them to. I've also used them for outrigger/stabilizers for my single-beam mounted sliding tongue box. Dexion-grade material (stanchions and cross rails, both) would've been too heavyweight. And, the mesh shelving is actually too flimsy for what I wanted it for, so I was drawn to the heavier-grade NSF kitchen shelving. Mix & match, and achieving what I wanted with mostly leftover hardware, and a discounted shelf. The materials sorta look like they were intended to go together, and I used fasteners I already had, also.

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