Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I am looking at options for side tables. I like the idea of of french cleats but I also like the clever counter leaver approach used by Oregon Trail'r. I don't think it would work without the aluminum clip rail. I foresee a drink jug over balancing it and it coming off the cleat.

Can I do it with out adding a leg?
I may need a leg on the other side anyway as I will be putting the Webber Q on one coming straight off the side and the BBQ is pretty heavy.


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

I just finished a small (11x11) side shelf that is hung using stainless steel frame hanging brackets. I'm happy with how this turned out and have designed it to hold a 2 gallon water jug; no more than 25 pounds. A Weber Grill would require a shelf more than twice this size and definitely a leg with some way to adjust its length.

I think these brackets are perfect for a small shelf that won't carry a lot of weight. I paid less than eight bucks shipped for eight brackets (enough for two selves).

Tim

I didn't get them from Amazon, but, here is a source...

https://www.amazon.com/Eforlike-Stainless-Bracket-Picture-1-69x0-74x0-07/dp/B075BGC7H6

I like how caseydog did his.

caseydog wrote:I have camped in CK2 four times, and every time I come back with ideas for improvement.

My main goal is to make CK2 easier to hook up, head out, and set up at camp, and then take down and go home after camping.

I also did one cosmetic change.

First, I repainted the frame to be all black, instead of the multi-tone paint job I had. I think it gives the TD a more solid foundation, and it looks more like the "tent on wheels" that I saw in my head.



I also revised the side table. Gone is the monopod leg, replaced by an arm that makes it independent of the ground. The TD can move without messing up the table, and the table hooks up in seconds, and comes off in seconds.


CD

I have done the side that will take the Webber Q BBQ. I figured out how to make an adjustable leg that still folds in nicely. So I think I will do the same again. And it just so happens to be perfect for supporting long pieces of timber hanging off my work bench

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Finished

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

edgeau wrote:FinishedSent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

*********************************************************************************

UH-OH! Gravity problem!

Roger

I think you would be better served by using the aluminum cleat hardware (inner & outer cleats) & an outrigger leg, which can telescope a bit. It's a compromise I know, but it would be light, strong & easy to set up on uneven terrain. We have small shelves at our galley, but your BBQ needs to be far enough away from the sides & supported well for weight. A cantilevered shelf would need to be strong & well attached to work, but it's starting to look like a fair amount of engineering to make it work properly. I still like the KISS method for everyday use.

This is what we did for extra space, but there's not much of a load & the shelves are relatively small. Aluminum extrusions & folding supports work well enough for light stuff.







In the bottom shot, the rearmost support was 'blocked out" with a small cleat, which was attached to the 1/8" interior side prior to skinning the outside. The folding supports have padded edges (bar top non-skid glued in place), so the painted aluminum won't scratch when the shelves are set in place & carrying weight.

GTS225 wrote:

edgeau wrote:FinishedSent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

*********************************************************************************

UH-OH! Gravity problem!

Roger

Oops. Now how do I make that an advantage

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

noseoil wrote:I think you would be better served by using the aluminum cleat hardware (inner & outer cleats) & an outrigger leg, which can telescope a bit.
.

I guess I didn't make it clear that the leg does telescope. It has a wood inner that slides and holes every 2cm to put a D shackle through.

I went with a wood cleat as I could make it and not try to get something shipped from the other side of the world

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

noseoil wrote:I think you would be better served by using the aluminum cleat hardware (inner & outer cleats)

I am stuck between this; and The way Todd has done his, with receiver tubing! but still watching them all.

my choice for a fully adjustable side leg for holding up my side-tables is the "tried and true" low$$ 'used second hand' set of medical "crutch's".... have been using the same ones since I built my side tables in 2012. Cost about $2.00 for a set of them at the local 'second' hand store. After I did a bit of 'adjustment' cutting for finding the happy 'medium' for a level starting point when parked on a level surface, I ended up with enough future 'up/down' un-level adjustment points in one-inch increments for when the ground surface levels change depending on the camp site chosen. And as one of the limerick's I have read here on this forum states: "People in the 'teardrop' group consider stealing ideas a compliment!!" I admit - I stole this one from 'someone' here years ago (along with the limerick)....and it works pretty good......... take care

gudmund wrote:my choice for a fully adjustable side leg for holding up my side-tables is the "tried and true" low$$ 'used second hand' set of medical "crutch's".... have been using the same ones since I built my side tables in 2012. Cost about $2.00 for a set of them at the local 'second' hand store.

Nice upcycling!



Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk