Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi there,

I have been given a trailer that I’m going to use for a pseudo-standy-squareback.

The trailer has a metal edge down the long edges - see photo .

I don’t want to cut off the whole thing because it seems fairly structural.

Originally I planned to build the wall to encase it - see sketch - but this will make the walls slightly too wide apart to use a sheet of 5’ BB on the roof. The width across the trailer to the outside of the vertical part of the metal side is 5’ exactly.


Alternatively I could build the walls inside the metal side, cut off the lip, and add a flashing on top of the cut edge and under the metal skin.


Another issue is that I want to extend the length 1’ past the end of the trailer to accommodate some of my wife’s wish list: galley, full bed foldable along length, bunk across front for child. If the metal side is exposed it won’t cover the extra length but maybe I can be creative with some checker plate or similar.

I’d welcome your thoughts on these or other options.

Thank you,
James

Treat 2x4 and do a subframe to raise the floor flush or above the lip and for balance extend it 6"in front and back or your tongue weight would get way off. You can use cedar as it's lighter and naturally root resistant as well instead of pine for base.

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Thanks Steve.

I can always move the wheels forward or backward - the leaf springs are attached to the frame with U bolts. I was leaning towards having most of the overhang on the front, maybe 8” front and 4” rear.

If I build a 2x4 frame I’ll still have to deal with the lip. If I build on to of the lip the overall width will be over 5’.

How tall is the lip? If you put the subframe inside the lip how would you go over 5 foot? Standing up vertical you'd raise the floor 3.75 inches and you'd be able to extend to front and rear no issues and great anchor system. Your floor can be a torsion box sandwich over foam glued up and be light and strong and glue screw to 2x4 matching your framing to same points as 2x4 frame. Light strong and perfect for anchoring your walls to.

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If I put the subfloor inside the lip and build the walls to the outer edge of the subfloor the width will be just under 5’. However the outer skin will come down inside the lip so water that runs down the wall will seep between the trailer edge and the subfloor. So I’ll need some sort of flashing.

Seal it with a lasting compound and no worry. E6000 is bitching

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How about building the torsion box floor exactly 5' wide, then rabbet the edges so it sets over the frame. Set your wall flush with the edge of the floor and your skin will go down over the frame, like this:

Homebrewer25 wrote:How about building the torsion box floor exactly 5' wide, then rabbet the edges so it sets over the frame. Set your wall flush with the edge of the floor and your skin will go down over the frame, like this:

I think this a good suggestion but wouldn’t I would have to cut off the lip at the top of the metal edge?
Thanks