I just use a simple rabbet joint for drawers & a dado slotted in for the bottoms. It's usually a 1/4" X 1/2" cut for the 1/2" Baltic birch plywood I use & 1/8" bottoms for the small drawers in our teardrop. Just some 1" pins from the pin-tacker & glue will hold it forever once the glue sets. On larger drawers, I would use 1/4" bottoms, but the galley drawers are only about 10" deep (front to back) so there really isn't much weight in them.
When I started as a cabinetmaker, the guy who trained me (RIP Bill Altenhoff) only used D-select white pine for drawer sides. We bought it at a local lumber yard (RIP Grant Road Lumber Company in Tucson) as 1X12 X 3/4" stock, then we planed it down to 1/2" to build the drawers. Nothing like sweet clear pine for a drawer, they were simple, clean & elegant.
Here's a drawer in the galley, without the drawer head in place yet.

If you're using side mounted drawer guides which require 1/2" of clearance per side, remember to leave about 1 1/16" of clearance between the sides of the cabinet & the drawer body (that's really only 1/32" per side). That 1/16" doesn't seem like much, but leaving just a 1" difference for a 1" drawer slide set is a tight fit. Leave the 1/16" of extra "slop" & the drawer will track correctly, not bind & work as it was designed, smoothly & effortlessly!
P.S. I don't own a pocket screw jig, never found a use for it...